GTRPSI

Sorry, i didn't know, unprivate now.

Hell ive played heaps with hydrogen generators, here is a clip of me experimenting in the early days years and years ago with only a few plates and 18 amps, running it off the GTR's battery...more plates, switching polarities at high frequencies produces a shit load more hydrogen. The whole thing costed me less than $50 to build....some PVC piping, end caps, stainless plates and junk i had around the place......add salts to increase amps and output. (sea water if pretty abundant) The stuff it pretty explosive too...just a little bubble to get a pretty loud bang. Now about the mileage, sure some improvement (i didnt test on the GTR though, who would), but its questionable if the water vapor (steam) being injected that was the reason for the improvement in mileage. Look into copper pipes being wrapped around exhaust manifolds with water in them producing steam thats injected into the intake system on youtube for better ideas, without the electronics and their results.

Wow, not so much the oil leak but the busted Gear box, unbelievable. Did you get a receipt for the work done? Was it written/printed under a business name? Pay eftpos or cash? I hope eftpos so its traceable, ill bet they would try not to show it in the books too. So it was booked into a workshop and the work was never performed there? They say it was canceled? By whom, you? Or the person that took it home to work on told the workshop owner you canceled? (and tried to pull a job on the side) If so your tracking may lead you to their residence i hope.....

I use copper spray on copper head gaskets, torque down when tacky. Hylomar when reusing a old MLS of if the heads not skimmed. New MLS gets nothing on a skimmed head. No oil, everything to be spotlessly clean, if you have oil leaking out of the head clean it out first with a air compressor blower.

I have run both EBC compounds heaps of times. The reds are rated to 650, very low dust and extremely gentle on rotors, good for fast street use. Yellows are rated to 900, average dust, a little more aggressive on rotors but wont tear them apart, fast street use and track use. For the wifes daily i run Reds, I like my mountain/high speed runs so all my cars are on yellows with EBC BF307 brake fluid which is exactly the same as the Motul RBF600, make sure you flush and run a high temp type fluid with the yellows as they will boil the fluid quickly. Really depends on how hard you push on the mountain run, but i will say the Yellows hunker the car down really well with no sign of fade.. Also today i noticed my brake noise is almost gone, yesterdays Dandenong mountains run (and fwy high speed stops) did a good job to bed the pads in, probably needs another day or 2 of driving to complete it. If you have shims use them.

I might add to the above post that in my case the white cap marked 10 25V that sits horizontally has a burn on the black - terminal where it was leaking. Found a equivalent round type of the same specs (only shape was different) and soldered it in, readjusted the output voltages and 4WD light problem solved. You can see the cylindrical shape of the replacement in the pic below just above the IC taken while i was readjusting the output voltages.

Id be opening her up and checking for bulging or leaking caps. Even post up a pic of the internals. Hang on i have some of when i repaired mine.....does it look like this inside with 3 trim pot variable resistors so you can tune the output voltage? Bah more modern, you Stagea owners think you all live with the Jetsons.

I have a fiberglass jun lip here brand new $200.00

i have a carbon brand new top secret diffuser. message me on 0422216160 if your keen.

Couple of apposing magnets in them im guessing.

Fingers is fine, tighter the better. On a side note i replaced my pads and rotors on my FG Turbo Ute on Saturday with J hook Slotted rotors and 900 degree rated EBC Yellow stuff pads. Getting noise from one rear side and the opposite front side, this is normal till 1000Km has been clocked up so the pads can bed in correctly. Happened To me on this ute and my old BA XR8 with genuine Brembo pads, EBC Red Stuff, TRW and Bendix pads, they all need time to settle in, most cases once the 1000Km mark is passed there are no noises what so ever. On the GTR with your normal Turbo Skyline Sumitomo calipers, Honda S2000 and the wife BA i never had a single sound from new regardless of the pads i ran. Whatever you do, give the pads time to bed in correctly, this may take up to 1000Km for them to settle in.

Do they run a g force sensor box like the R32 GTR's? Mine played up once, opened the unit to find a blown capacitor, replaced it with a $1 one from Jaycar, reset the output voltages via the trim pots and it never came back again.

Drain and refill yes. flush no, you cant get flow through there with the thermo in place only enough flow to refill with.

My money is on water got under the coil valley cover...... Remove coils, dry them, the whole valley, then put a smear of dielectric grease on the coil pack ends before fitting them back in to reduce any arcing from the rubber boots.

Add a couple of dash fitting up high on the sump above the oil level on the drivers side and run them up to a catch can. Give the blowby a way out of the sump so to minimize the amount going up to the cover breathers. This also assists oil traveling back down as it does not need to fight the air going up.

Those sumitomo calipers have a spring loaded plate that fits between the pins to push down on the pads. Make sure you bend them a bit to retension them as they loose their ability to do so with use and heat, this allows the pads to freely bounce around and vibrate under braking which can also cause noise.

Check your crank end float, it may be just the thrust bearing if you don't hear rod knock.

I have some brand new frp r32 gtr front guards. pm if interested.

Nah, my father was a old school mechanic who use to do it all himself, he always taught me to look at why something broke, find out how to improve it before i replaced it. By 9 he had me rebuilding engines with him, by 13 he had me modding stock parts by hand (no performance parts for all models back in those days) and rebuilding them myself with him watching on. By 16 he said he had no more to show me.......and im 51 and still learning.....

Go to youtube and do a search of 'flakka" They say its just hit the streets here now.....get ready for this one....

Next time you see him drop a rubber spider near him, watch him shit bricks and run for his life. He has already complained why i have not gone around the house spraying barrier spray just before summer......last time he saw a spider in his bedroom he made me spider killer smoke bomb his room.

I spray long life kill surface spray around the gap between the mirror and cover, makes em sick and kills them, the coating inside takes care of the next sucker to try going in there. Looks like im not the only one with a son thats got a spider phobia.

Show the pic to a good engine builder, they should jerry the moment they see it. Its done with a small hand file slowly and carefully, taking care not to mark the bearing face and taking care to remove any material that the file may push onto the parting face, i simply do it using a small hand file.. You only make a 45 degree cut and only cut through the bearing excess, still leaving a flat end for the other half of the bearing to crush against. Best ask the engine builder to examine a ACL bearing under a magnifying glass, and open up their bearing a little more than they have, or to replicate this onto a non ACL bearing. You will note if you look at that pic that its a 45 degree cut and the end of the bearing is still flat so it can still crush against the other half of the bearing properly.

Originally the lines were supposed to be longer and it was fitted behind the front left of the bumper bar inside the guard were the ducts are.

For the crank thrust, i mod the thrust bearings for extra oiling on the thrust face (pull needs the mod on the oil pump facing side, push type clutches need the mod on the flywheel facing side). ACL bearings sort of already have it done, when using ACL bearings i usually open the mod up for more oiling. The mod is a channel filed into the parting line of the bearings so extra oil can travel to the thrust bearing face. Yes never start the engine with the clutch down and dont sit at lights with your foot on the clutch, our clutch is a Jim berry 5800lb cover pressure pull type, you know what that baby will be doing to the thrust bearing.....