GTRPSI

Im in Melbourne (Bricks and mortar and online shop) and carry them. Most shops dont hold them because they are expensive, however RDA/EBC deliver daily, most times twice a day so most shops dont carry them as they have no need to, ask they they are a few hours away.

Crankshaft or camshaft end float?

EBC Green stuff is for light kit cars around up to 850Kg and rated to 500 degrees. I have spoken to EBC Australia about this, now you cant buy them in Aus anymore because of it.....Minimum is Red stuff now.

http://www.news.com.au/national/nsw-act/two-people-shot-dead-outside-nsw-police-headquarters-in-parramatta/story-fnj3rq0y-1227554475942

Man that belt is seriously loose. My bets on belt slap on the lower cover or tensioners loose which would explain the knock sound.

Maybe his E85 has absorbed a shit load of water in the tank and running as a steam engine.

By pass your reg as a test, or in other words take it off the rail and use a fitting to connect the return line directly to the fuel rail. Whats your fuel pressure now? If low you need a bigger reg as the stocky cant flow enough out. But if your smarts, you would try to blow through the return line first as its the most probable logical issue you may have.

Inner welsh plugs in on the exhaust side that are not meant to be there? What inner welsh plugs are there except for the one i pointed out under the thermostat on the intake side? Pull all the welsh plugs out on the hot side and its just the inner block there, you cannot put inner plugs in if you tried as there is nowhere to fit them. Unless he knocked to old plugs into the block when removing them and left them loose in there. Id say you didn't get the whole truth........just the version of events that suited whoever told you.

i have a brand new carbon spoiler blade if you get stuck... pm me for pricing.

Holy crap that sounds bad. Remove the cas and front timing cover, take a look around something funky happening there.

I just moved mine for a catch can with radiator overflow.

Are you sure its 1.25 pitch into the block? It would provide real torque when tightening down. Whats the final torque on them? A lot less than 100ft/lb? ARP's studs for 25's and 26's are 1.5 pitch into the block but (i think) 1.25 on the heads nut face end. (Much finer)

Id say shadows, and the fact that the left and right end tanks are diff shapes.

I was just down at Barrys and he gave me a set of RB26 ARP2000 stud kit to measure up as im still waiting for my studs to arrive. Complete length of the whole stud is 124.37mm end to end. Threaded section that enters the block is 23mm 74.27mm un-threaded shaft length. Threaded section that nuts go on is 27.1mm. So 23mm into block, 74.27mm shaft length, 27.1mm threaded for nuts and washer=124.37mm total length. Hope that helps you.

There are many types of smoke. Black smoke is rich. Blue smoke is oil. White steam is water evaporating from inside the exhaust when its warming up. What color is it? (not smell) Id say its black and running rich while in the warm up circuit. Stem seals will smoke blue for a few seconds till it gets burned up if its the stem seals.....

I did something similar to a old 3 piece OZ Racing wheel set, only difference was they were clear coated which was peeling and really corroded. I ended up sanding the outers to get the clear coat off, working my way to 1200 grit, with each sand removing the sand marks from the last grit. Then buffed with a wool buff and cutting compound on a drill, final finish was done with Autosol, they came up mirrored like chrome. You may be spending too much time on them because you are not sanding through the corrosion. Those inners with the rough cast are best sanded smooth first to remove the rough casting, then polished.

Im waiting on 12mm CA625+ studs to arrive and a i have a set of 11mm studs but the box is sealed and i dont want to open it as im selling them. A stock RB26 head bolt with washer fitted is 99.91mm long from under the washer head to the very end of the bolt including the threaded section that enters the block. Remove the washer and from under the bolt head to the end of the threads its 102.72 mm. Washer is 3.10mm thick exactly. (so im a few 0.00mm out somewhere) Threaded section entering the block from the lengths above is around 27.5mm. From there you will just need to add what you need to protrude out of the head to get the nut full on when working out stud lengths.

With the 26 head used, the 26 block has the rear one plugged factory so on 30 blocks using the 26 head you plug the rear one, Nissan sell the solid plug for around $5. I never put the new restricor over the old one on a rebuild, in most cases the engine may have a history of a spun bearing, crud collects under the factory restictor so i run a self tapped screw into it and used a shifter under the head of the screw and knock it out so i can clean under the stock restrictor. You would be surprised how much crap is under it.

To be more exact its actually M11 X 1.5 (pitch) for RB25's and RB30's. RB26's are M12 X 1.5 pitch. Reason i know is because im about to convert a RB30 block to RB26 head bolt sizes tomorrow for fun. Make sure you get the bottoming out tap so yo can reach the end of the threaded hole if cleaning threads, the next one back is the plug tap and will be short 3-5 turns from the bottom, the starter tap will be 5-8 turns short.

No the rotor shudder is the end result of a issue, as said before they get like that for a reason. As pointed out earlier in the RDA TSB's i linked you to, if you take a moment to read through them, its mentioned that rotors get like that for a reason and the shudder is the end result, that is the rotors are damaged due to a outside influence, not the rotor physically themselves. If you get a fouled spark plug, do you say the spark plugs are crap?

Well being a large account in the brake game i have some DBA senior management on my speed dial....so i made a quick call for clarification from higher up the food chain. I was told "partially" what i posted over the phone, its all made here and O/S regardless of range...yep i initially thought maybe what i was told in the industry was wrong after what you posted and was preparing to apologize about my post. So i thought id get some proof for you in writing, obviously having seen the plant, you may have "assumed" its all made here as the senior management pointed out to me. So i emailed their team anonymously to get it in writing.....i have sent you a copy in your inbox of that whole email ping pong. Certainly not all made in Australia, as you will see in your message i even tried to weed it down to the T3 or club spec or 2 piece range to say its 100% Australian made, apparently not so. Not taking away from the brand, they make some good stuff, just clarifying what you didn't know or miss interpreted. OR maybe senior management and sales team dont know the upper end all made here. In case you want the china ones direct...... http://zhengnuogroup.en.made-in-china.com/product/NbVmiaIDXyYh/China-Excellent-Dba-Brake-Rotors-for-Australia-Market.html

Those earlier hair line cracks you had are usually just surface deep. We see a lot of track day rotors like this, quite often a fine marbling of the braking surface where the cracks are very shallow, a simple light skim will remove them. However, not machining the rotors (you mention 6 track days) "may" (something ive always suspected in the early days and after watching had seen) lead to these cracks growing, or lead to a larger full crack developing due to the weakness from the earlier cracks. Just like how once a part is cracked, the crack will continue to grow along the current one. Most rotors with the surface marbling that ive watched, progressively got worse with the cracks growing in width and depth the longer they were used, the rotor heating and cooling (expanding and contracting) aggravating the issue. Its one of the reasons i now tell people doing track days to keep an eye on 1 piece rotors for any cracks developing, if they see a surface craze finish to simply lightly machine the rotors to remove it before driving on them. You can never be too safe, then again, using the right rotor in the first place may have been more appropriate however the costs of the good stuff is pretty much out of range of the average person doing the odd track day. You mentioned you used HC pads, what is the temp rating of the pads? I know the HC800 are rated to 800 degrees. I piece rotors shouldn't be subjected to over 600 reliably, once you go over that your looking for issues.

Unfortunately most of their rotors are cast in China to keep cost down through a number of plants, part numbers come from different casters, not just 1 plant. They warranty them for street use, knowing they will work safely within those parameters, they have been proven to be well made in that environment. If customers want to take things to the next level DBA have a range of proper 2 piece track rotors designed to take that abuse, now if they cracked, id suggest taking them in for research and development and to see what they would say and if they could improve the product. I doubt they will look to improve whats currently a price point product, that currently works well for what its designed to take, ATM the brake rotor game is extremely competitive in pricing, both RDA and DBA both have a good performance street range which works well while holding prices down to keep customers happy. Just like you wouldn't build a highly strung engine with stock rod bolts and then take the broken rod bolts to the engine manufacturer to show them what happens when you push a part beyond its recommended usage, im sure the engineer looking at it could have told you it would have happened before you did it.

Unfortunately DBA (and RDA) wont cover them, only warrantied under normal street use, the moment you hit track any warranty you had is out the window. Quite a common thing to happen when shocked into heat, they crack from the rapid heat expansion, cast iron needs to be warmed up gradually to avoid cracking it. You can actually see its riddled with cracks all the way around from rapid heating...... Easily identified by the radiating lines outwards from the hub center all the way around. When hitting a track, you should use the first lap to build heat into the brakes, that way they are reasonably warm when you start your flying lap, then the differences in temp change are far less and the rotor expands less from running hard cold and running hard hot. Take a off the shelf rotor from stone cold and hit the straight with a high enough temp rating pad, slam on the brakes with everything you have and bingo, great chance of getting a cracked rotor.

Pistons are of a harder material than the calipers themselves, are you sure your pistons are actually worn? I usually see the pistons rusted, pitted and full of crud. If the pistons marked where the seals make contact, replace it, they are around $50 each aftermarket off the top of my head last time i checked. http://stores.ebay.com.au/performancecarpartsonline/_i.html?_nkw=sumitomo+piston&submit=Search+Store