Dylby77

Yeh, sorry mate, someone is going to get a F*cking BARGAIN!!! Can't believe I've had no calls even, the misses has got the shits so I'm SLASHING IT TO $11,000!!! :-( Just got to figure out how to change my heading? Another update just call my mobile 0404499771, my hotmail gets too much spam so I might miss it!

Get this awesome R34 TURBO SEDAN at a Bargain price! Plenty of extra's and great performance mixed with Legendary Looks and reliability! Extra's include: *HKS Intercooler *K&N POD FILTER *PWR Triple-Core Alloy Radiator with Twin 12" Thermo Fans to keep her cool *NEW Adjustable KONI Coil-over Shocks all round *APEXI SAFC2 (Airflow Computer Controller) and TURBO TIMER *$2500 Sony Bluetooth Stereo Sytem with Sub+Amp, Tweeters +Front Speakers with Pioneer Kevlar Rear Speakers - Awesome sound, links with your phone or MP3 player seemlessly for calls and music! * BOOST CONTROLLER = MORE GRUNT!! * NEW power-steering unit * 4Sp Tiptronic Auto - Fully rebuilt 14 months ago - Kevlar Bands, Stage 2 Shift Kit - Western Suburbs Automatics, Fully Serviced with New Full Synthetic Fluid * Transmission-Oil Cooler * Always serviced with Mobil 1 * Air-con regassed in December These cars come with a list of standard features as long as your arm including NEO RB25DET Motor, FACTORY XENON HEADLIGHTS, Front Strut Tower Brace, 4 Spot Front Brake Calipers and Twin Rears, 4 Wheel Steer, ABS, Climate Control, Factory Floormats, Body Kit, Full Factory Guages including Boost,Oil Temp & Pressure. 17" Factory Alloys and Stylish Bodykit along with 4 Doors mean you can take more than 1 friend with you! I am the 1st Australian owner bought with 92,000km, This has been my regular daily driver for 2 years and is a really great car with no hassles, only selling because I have upgraded. It has some minor things that could do with fixing but nothing major. Very CHEAP, Must Sell, Will consider Reasonable Offer. Genuine Enquiries Only, No Dreamers or Joy Riders! Call Dylan on 0404499771 or email [email protected] don't PM because I will probably forget to check it

Read back through the thread, I think most peoples happened after going around corners, mine seemed to happen when I would pull up going downhill, then when taking off again it would be in limp mode (locked in 3rd)

Well hopefully you all get a solution before you need a new box like I did :-( And the worst part is the new box was speed limited again doh! Not that u can do it often, but occasionally it was nice to get her up to 220-230 now it just bangs against it at 185, sucks but probably for my own good lol.

Ohh, spewing, totally didn't think of calling Mike! I called everrybloody auto, highperformance, skyline specialist shop in south east qld! Oh well, hope everybody else remembers mike when they have an auto problem, the new shift kit isn't aas nice as his was either, but atleast the box is going well now. Cheers, Dylan.

Just a final update, They had so many bloody problems and couldn't work it out, apparently the ecu blew a chip or something then they couldn't get it repaired so replaced it, had heaps of trouble finding a tiptronic ecu for the r34. Eventually got one but then they tried to tell me it was fixed, but I took it for a drive and said no way was I taking that, it slipped so bad from about 4000 to 6000 just to change 1st to 2nd at about 3/4 throttle, he said oh we didn't know how hard you would drive it! I said that's not hard that's only 3/4 throttle. Long story short, they bought another box, rebuilt it with all the goodies that mine was meant to get then put it in, no probs now! Bad thing is they charged me about $1400 extra for all the ecu drama's (repaired twice and a second hand one as well.) so it cost $4600 instead of $3200, but happy to have her back again after 2 month away. Dylan.

Just done 100k, I had the 100kmajor service done when it was 90k and they told me the auto was nearly shagged then. The guys said it wasn't standard solenoids, originally he said they would have them the next day and they would be $400, then when they pulled the box out they turned out to be different and needed to come from Japan for $750. I'll ask him more about that when I pick it up. No idea about power, couple of small mods, HKS intercoolerand pod filter, manual boost controller at about .7bar (10ish psi I think) SAFCII controller. All goes prety bloody good for the dollars spent (smokes XR8's no probs lol, but what doesn't ) Cheers, Dylan

Well Done Wally, I wouldn't be too keen to do that myself, I'd probably be stuck in reversve forever if I tried it! Anyway, I get mine back on Tuesday, the kit took 2 1/2 weeks to get here from Japan, but everything else is done and waiting on them, new torque converter, new kevlar bands, new valve body (stage 2 shift again) and the new solenoids when they get here. Hopefully it feels like the bucks were well spent! Cheers Dylan

http://www.wsautomatics.com.au give them a call, I reckon they would. Dylan.

Thanks Guys, I think I'll take Ferni's advice and go to Natrad, thanks for the offer Nisswreck, but if I'm gonna pull the dash out I may as well save some heartache and chuck a new one in o I only have to do it once as they seem to a problem item that die pretty easily. A part # would still be handy if anyone knows Cheers Dylan. Ps I found your link to predators pics thanks ferni, hope thge R34 is similar. i'll probably wait till next winter now anyway lol.

Sounds like your heater is already bypassed, if you don't need a heater you can probably pull the core out, but it won't save you much weight, unless you're really serious about racing, but then yhou probably wouldn't have an air-con in it cause that would save you heaps mre weight and power. if there is a pipe looped in the cooling systm near the holes in the firewall you were talking about, then your heater is bypassed. Cheers Dylan

Hi guys, Need to know where to get a heater core (whole kit maybe) for R34. Preferrably want a new one as I dont ever want to do the install twice! Anyone help with the part number as well. Is it the same as 32,33's, maybe same as the maxima's? Anyhelp appreciated. Dylan.

Yeh I 2nd that, Can you post those guides again Predator, I know its been a while, but skylines still bust heater cores by the sound of it lol and we need your guidance. Cheers Dylan

Any chance of getting the link to these guides active again? I really need to change my heater core and while i've got the dash out may as well change the LED's to make it bright and shiny. My core dropped it guts over a year ago and winter sux without a heater! I've just had it bypassed ever since but would like to get it all fixed. If anyone has the link to pulling out the R34 dash and changing the heater unit that would be awesome, also anyone tell me the part number for the heater unit or where I can buy one? Thanks for the great post anyway predator. Dylan

Thanks Nik, yeh it does, but its sorta cool cause it gives me the excuse to spend money to get a bullet proof box (like the misses lol) Be quick hard changes now all the way! And when Barry (from WS Automatics, that's western suburbs of Bris, not SA lol) reads this, he better listen to you Nik and make her bullet proof. Cheers Dyl Ps TR34GT, hope yours is just the noids, or the rewiring works for you.

Update, I wish it was just the solenoids , I got the call back about 20 mins after I left it in the workshop, auto is shot needs full rebuild, doh. Torque converter pretty stuffed, Bands 2,4 are so far gone he was surprised it was working at all. Anyway the upside is I will now have a hot tranny when it's all rebuilt, bullet proof, higher stall on the torque conv, not too much just to 2800ish rpm, otherwise it will upset the computer. (2yr warranty) Downside $3200 ouch, but that pretty good when you look at the rebuild cost of an old ford 4 speed for about the same. I told Barry from WSAutomatics to come on the forum, so when he does he can explain everything. Also lose the car for 2 weeks as the noids aren't in Aus, got to come from Japan. Oh well, can't wait to get it back and light em up again Oh, and if anyone knows people looking to buy or sell an investment property or first home property in Ipswich, please let me know cause I'm going to have to get a couple of sales to pay for this!!!! Have a look at my site and I'll tell you the good buys if you're interested. FindaHomeRealty 1300FINDAHOME

Just tried WS Automatics in Rocklea for anyone around Bris/Ipswich WSAutomatics finally found someone that knows what he's on about, he's done a quite a few skyline auto's, he'll recheck the codes test the elec signals to the noids and the speed sensor, then if it needs the noids replaced he'll drop the sump change the noids, clean/replace filter, new oil, check everything else while its out, put it back, then check the codes again make sure the speed sensor is ok because he said thats not a normal code if its just the noids, and the good news is only take 1 day and be $550. I'm booked in tomorrow, let's see if the quote stays close to the final bill I'll let you know. Also told him to come to the forum and start helping on these type of questions as it can help him get customers. Check their website it is bloody good. Dylan.

Probably the power boost, I put in the the little boost controller, upped the boost then this started happening to mine. I got the stage 2 shift from MV auto's sent it up to QLD got my mechanic to put it in and it was pretty damn good, the bands got tightened and everything at the same time. I can highly recommend the MV shift kit but be prepared to wait because other slack people don't send him back their valve bodies after they get the new one (its an exchange deal) Thats was 6 months ago, no probs until recently and now it looks like I need to replace the shift solenoids see thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...io-t217923.html just found other guys having same probs, see thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...amp;hl=r34+auto If anyone can tell us how much it should cost to replace the solenoids it would be a great help as my local auto guy has said more than $800! Cheers Dylan.

Thanks Jim, I just called Ipswich Auto's and he reckons to change them will cost a fortune, has to drop the valve body out and last time he got one it was about $800!! That sounds crazy, I thought it was an electrical problem with a couple of solenoids, does he know what he is on about or not? 666DAN or anyone can you help us out, what needs to be done and how much approx to replace the solenoids? The error codes again were 10,12 & 13 (Vehicle speed sensor, shift solenoid A, shift solenoid B) Cheers Dylan.

Update, even driving in manual mode it stays in 3rd now when its warm like 666Dan said. I'm booking in to get new solenoids asap. I'll let you know if that's the only prob.

Hi Guys, sounds exactly like my problem, my mechanic found error codes 10 -vehicle speed sensor, 12 & 13 solenoids A & B. I was just about to order a new speed sensor as they said this would be the problem because it was the first error, glad I read this first. Mine started happening after a nice little fishy round a corner about a month ago, now whenever I pull up going down a hill it goes in 3rd until I turnoff and start again. I have noticed if I use manual mode from the start I can stop it from happening so until I get the solenoids changed I'll keep using manual. Thanks 666Dan for saving me a speed sensor that is probably fine

Just letting you know I received my new rad from JustJap yesterday! Only ordered it on the weekend and received it on Tuesday, nice service Steve! So I'm putting twin 12" thermos on (because I had them, but I still think the 16" would be hard to fit) I still need some advice on the trans-cooling, what size should I go now that I've lost the radiator capacity. something that would fit in the oem place. Cheers Dyl.

Sweet Nightcrawler, yeh I nearly understood most of that, um i think ! Would love to see your pics to help me out, haven't played round with cars for a few years so just starting out again with my new hottie, and like any good woman she's already costing me heaps! So did you manage to fit the 16" fan on? cause I couldn't on the standard rad without being bodgy and lifting it out over the tank at the bottom. I went twin 12's but since I have to get a new rad, i may aswell try to change this at the same time. EDITED Well I've ordered the justjap radiator, and you were spot on nightcrawler it is an oe trans cooler, so if i just change the rad and keep the original cooler will that be ok for a while until i can upgrade to a bigger oil cooler? or steve maybe you could point me in the right direction too? Thanks heaps for the advice Dylan.

Ok, thanks Steve, only one problem there's not much room left? with the radiator, air-con, intercooler and engine-oil cooler where can I fit the trans cooler?? Or is there one that could combine engine and trans cooling?? dunno help needed? Thanks Dylan.