DAMQIK GTS-T

I have a 4" cat back exhaust (HKS Super Drager with 6" tip) and until 3 weeks ago had the stock front pipe once I changed to this pipe, I noticed that the motor revved much quicker to my 7500 rev limit, in fact it almost snapps there once the foot is buried. I found when fitting the dump that I could use 12 mm headed bolts (factory is 13mm) in the two middle bolt holes I also re fitted the factory heat sheild which required some modding to the support bracket to fit around the bolt holes also. I feel this is a worth while mod to do and I am very happy with the result. Regards Damqik

It wont be a spark plug problem

The skyline fuel filters are replace type only Z200 I think. You in your profile state your car is an r31 coupe is this the Rb20 equiped model? if so on the drivers side of the engine bay is all the soildnoids and hydrolic sensors May be you could un plug them an see if the car still plays up also thats the same side as the fuel lines check as someone else stated that the fuel line is not fouling with the steering rack(getteing pinched) . Still dont rule out the Afm until you have swapped it with a known working unit.

Very Possible ! Unpluging the Hicas computer should tell you if thats the problem.

The problem with my Afm required it to be internally repaired (the solder joints on the inside of the plug to the afm's circuit board Under that square black cover) a clean wont do unfortunately. It would be better for you to swap it with a known good working unit to test.

I had a simular problem to this once and it was the AFM see if you can borrow one from someone to test.

Oh one other thing which HPI was it as I have most of em or can get it. Thanks Damqik

Cool, Thanks guys for the info I would do all the conversion myself except the painting. The next thing I guess is weather it would be cheaper to get a complete wreak or to buy the required parts only, then again if I got a complete wreak I could get a GTR R34 and do the 4WD system and motor swap as well. Plus all the other bit n peaces that go with. I would love some pictures and any other advice Thanks Again Damqik

Thanks Slip SMS sent

Hi Guys n Girls, Dose anyone Know if a R34 front (Gards, Bumper & Bonnet) will fit on an R33 body? This is a mod I am Seriously looking into. And I have not yet seen this done. I like the 33 ass better but like the 34 nose, so I'm thinking the best of both worlds maybe. I have done a simular thing to a TX Gemini coupe that I once Owned and put a TG front on it this required me to change the radiator support and crossmember, But with the two series of lines it seems they have the same basic floor pan and turret. so it may be even easier. If anyone has any idea or comment I'd love to hear form you. Main point of consern is weather the door line matches the the gard line. Thanks DAMQIK

Im on the Sunny Coast and would prob meet in Caloundra Can u comfirm the time and place 4 us Regards Damqik

Actually skylines spend most of their time in closed loop the only time there not is @ full throttle or accelerating off. If the O2 sensor is stuffed the ecu gos into the safe (Rich) limp home mode. Therefore as many people have said replacing the O2 sensor has given them much better fuel economy if you have a stock or near stock car and get shit economy I'd recommend replacing it.

Russ, I can think of a few examples of when a turbo timer would be useful even helpful, I agree that a stock car running stock boost levels may not get the turbo hot enough to warrant its use. But a moded car running more than std boost tends to work the turbo harder even in city driving the turbo gets hotter, those that don’t live city would get the opportunity to drive there cars harder e.g. mountain areas then one get's to destination and not have the time to wait with the car to cool the turbo. I tend to fall into this category and due to the urgent nature of my work cant wait for cool down hence a timer would be an advantage. Click here to download an example how quick a turbo can heat up and cool down again. I think 3 min is enough to save a turbo from what would be a certain death.

Compressioin can drop for many reasons a head gasket is the most likely but as you say get the head off.

russcb007 i think you missed the point, This is allways the case, that's why you dont just shut the motor off the temp will rise before dropping this is because the air/water flow around the motor has stopped. Shut off water temps should be about 80 deg. Turbo timers were invented to keep oil/water flowing through the turbo whilst it is red hot, it prevents the oil cooking inside and sizesing the turbo bearings by keeping the oil/water flowing. Have you ever seen a red hot turbo? the oil & in some cases water flowing through DOSE cool the turbo down to a point that it wont cook. (this is has little to do with engine temps) Turbo timers arnt designed to cool to the motor down but to bring turbo temps down to a safe level. Hence the name TURBO TIMER!

10 12 13 14 mm spanners 8 10 12 13 14 mm sockets 1/4" drive and ratchet 10 12 13 14 mm scokets 1/2 " drive and ratchet extension bars & uni joints for both 1/4" & 1/2 " drive 10mm allen key socket 1/2" drive & breaker bar pliers & cutters Torque wrench Philips & flat Screw drivers size's 2 & 3 of each a small flat jellwers srewdriver (for the wire clips on some plugs) Telescopic magnet (for dropped bolts / screws) oil/water catch pan set of small allen keys Leaver bar I think thats about it.

I used to own a Nissan bluebird with the L20 B motor anyway I did up a 200b motor 4 it and the oil filter didnt clear the engine mounts so I got a remote oil fitlter kit it cost me $30 at the time 10 year ago. Are these kits somewhat different to the kits for 300 + $ today? they use a z9 filter fitting wich our skylines also use. when I decided that I wanted a cooler 4 it I just got an auto tranny cooler and plumed it in. Why dosnt any body use these on there skylines? I dont see a difference between them and the expensive ones.

I think you have the right idea for track work but if its for street use just put the bigger pump in the tank.

2 hour two remove bout the same to replace (with the right tools) but hard to say it all depens on what happens read: bolts breaking/siezed ect....ect. I dont think you could get into too much trouble even if you give up after removal of the head and toe it somewhere would still save yourself $ on some labour.

I belive that jaycar make a kit that work's using a exhaust temp probe when the exhaust / turbo temp drops to a preset temp it will then power off the engine. This I belive would be the best type of setup as it will only keep the engine running on if nessary, (the turbo is above a set temp) A drive to the local shop and back would not get the turbo hot enough to keep the motor running when the key is turned off.

Tip 1, Ensure you remove the 3 - 10 mm bolts before undoing the headbolts 2 are at the back of the head 1 is at the front near the vcc solidnoid. Tip 2, remove the power steering pump bracket as it has 1 bolt that go's into the head also, Tip 3, get yourself a long 10mm allen key socket for the head bolts or you will need to remove the camshafts. Tip 4, setting up the timing is easy if you put the motor to TDC before removing the cambelt. With the belt cover & cas removed and the motor @ TDC you will see a dot on the cam wheel's that lines up with a mark on the back of cambelt cover. (the back half one still bolted to the head.) Tip 5, These tip's should see you right but they are in no pictular order.

The benifits are one air less leak to the inlet manafold there is a little performance gain not much tho, I'd imagine the fuel tank would no longer see turbo boost. more room under the bonnet if the container is removed all together. removal/disconect dosent affect emisions measureable at the tailpipe as the idea of it is to take fumes off the top of the fuel tank and stop the tank Pressurizing. if you leave it venting to atmo & cut and block the pipes going to the inlet the tank wont make that funny noise when opening.

Yeah I know what ya mean, I unpluged that Beeper under the dash once, all sorts of things stoped working.

Ok so you checked the fuses under the dash? under the black cover under the bonnet & next to the battery? (there are 3 Fuse boxes in a r33) PM me your email address and I will send the wireing diag 4 jpg pictures. Thou I feel your prob is bad earth maybe run a new wire from earth to the module and the same for power+ if you have not yet tryed this. is your cig lighter getting power?

Go through all the fuse's with a test light and ensure that they are all ok, next check that all earth wires to the alarm module are grounded (HINT: some alarm installers use the radio as a ground) some alarms use a seperate module for the door locks check this aswell. When i fitted my alarm I used the wires going to the hazard switch did you plug it back in? as mine would not flash if the switch was not pluged in. Thats all I can think of for now check all of the above and let us know how u went. if u have more info that would help me tell u what to look 4!