DAMQIK GTS-T

follow the battery wires (+ & -) from the battery to there ends and make sure there not lose and that the conections are clean maybe even remove and clean anyway for good measure.

I hear what youu guy's are saying about maf and I think Nissan Japan got things right first time for a street car, but I disagree about the 80mm opening as the hot wire probe would reduce the amount of air that could travel past, and then theres the screens (which I lost the week after buying my car 2 1/2 years ago) it would be more like 60mm opening at the end of the day. I'm currently running map, I can run in closed loop (link ecu) so no issue there with regards to the cam issue I can run mixed mode TPS/Map so also no prob's I guess its different strokes for different foke's like rb20, rb25, rb26 & rb30 and all the others mixed between. so it is with MAP & MAF one guy will say one thing another will say another thing. We all like 9 sec skylines dose it matter how they do it?

Its not the gel leaking from ya battery then?

Im not sure about the air bag wheel but on a non airbag wheel the front horn button cover just pulls off, there may be some screws behind the wheel to remove the airbag mechanisim just look behind The most common steering wheel rattle is the horn button plastic ring broken caused by bashing on the horn to hard.

Check your power steering fluid. is it blue? is it low? Dose your a/c still get sometimes the dye put in air con systems is blue.

I doubt it would be Auto trans oil (your saying this cos its red?) Skyline box oils I have seen range from brown to yellow to red most have been quite thin. you should how ever be able to tell from the smell if it's gear oil or trans oil.

You will find that most (if not all) oem O2 sensors are narrow band, wide band units can replace factory ones but are worth $500+

Judd, I know of the restriction that is maf, The link is not going to stay, as such I may need to quickly remove it and go back to factory. I still want to get either a wolf 3D or a LTX 12 Microtech. Im in the process of making up an adapter to replace the Maf to bolt to the air box. Also thinking of making the piping bigger from the air box to the Turbo inlet. Regards Damqik

there is a paste that you can put between the piston and the pad designed to stop the viberation between the 2 which causes the squeaking.

How Much oil did you put into the box? The hand book that came out with my car say's 2.8L but I have since found it's more like 3.6L that should go into the gear box on a r33 Manual.

There is a bit more to it than that. On the gear box there will be 3 sensors one is for the reverse light (just a switch) 2 is for the neutral to the ecu (also justa switch) 3 the last is the speed sensor (which id imagine that you would of removed as the the r23 use a cable) (not electric). The engine side will have a few more wires for the auto kick down these arnt needed for the manual. to figure out which is which is just a matter of testing (short two wires the brake lights come on..... ect. ....ect auto electricans charge the earth for this kind of work

You would of only seen me in Brisbane or on the Sunshine Coast the car hasn't been anywhere else in the 2 and a half years that I've had it. My Car is that two tone dark blue and gun metal grey. Even though I'm running a map sensor I still have the maf and the stock-modified air box fitted to the car so I can switch back to the stock ecu in case I stuff the tuning on the link out driveing somewhere (I tend to fiddle always looking for that bit more power) it would take me 3 minutes to get the car running on the stock ecu again. I also run an on dash Lamda meter to keep a check on air/fuel mixtures, makes on the road tuning easy.

Afm's are good for a stable idle control PERIOD they are restrictive and just a pain in the arse to maintain, Map however are good for what ever power level and Boost they are bad at idle control because there is very little vac or boost to trigger it however this can be tuned out using TPS tuning for low revs if the ecu supports it Both wolf and Microtec do! also so dose the GTS link (which I currently have in my car) Map by far is better in the long run as most skylines wont drive at less that 2000rpm anyway. MY 2 Cents Damqik

No I'm not sure but it only moves a few mm definitely dosn't move 15 to 20 deg tho

Well I pulled out my cams and found no difference between them and the N/A ones (Mesured them with a micrometer). very dissapointed, however I found out what the VVT dose. its oil pressure feed and simply moves the intake cam pully about 2 deg when the soilnoid is powered by the ecu. I also got my tappet covers polished whilst they are off and I painted the coil cover. Damqik

The o2 sensor is located on the back of the turbo & has 3 wires going to it. I got my replacement one from Barnes high performance Nambor (he can fit 4 u tho I did mine myself) The Afm is mounted on the back of the air box has about 5 wires going to it, give it a spray with Co Contact cleaner made by CRC try the following link for more info http://www.wave.co.nz/~hksnz/techfiles/oxy...orlifespan.html

I was getting really bad Fuel Economy a few months ago (lucky to get 200k to a tank) I replaced my o2 sensor 4 a ford unit all is now good. Long steady drives i get over 500 k to a tank, arround town strapping it i get at worst 400k's. I would get you O2 sensor replaced. The ford unit is the same as the nissan one only cheaper and you need to change the plug to the nissan one 4 it to fit. For under $90 well worth it. Regards Damqik

Looks Sweet, Only one problem that I can see, the pipe that used to go to the tappet cover breathers to the turbo inlets has been removed and blocked at the turbo enterance thats fine but ensure that the bung blocking inside the flex rubber tube is NOT plastic as my car had this, well some months after fitting it melted and the turbo ate it dinging up the impeller. took me ages to get the melted & screaded plastic bung out of the i/c. Regards Damqik

I would try an ecu re-set, get it learning all over again. Regards Damqik

Hi Sydneykid, The RB25de Cam's that I have are VVT,(I have the complete engine sitting on my garage floor) Its a series 1 R33 RB25 DE with VVT. I also belive from looking at the cams that any cam put into a head that is equipped with vvt would work, as the vvt only advances and retards the cam by moving the pully which is spring loaded so it moves back again. There is no shifting the cam back and forth to a different set of lobes like honda engines. Dose this sound right? Im going to try the N/A cam's this weekend will post results. Regards Damqik.

I have a set of n/a rb25de cam's would they be worth putting in my rb25det motor as a performance upgrade? I am assuming that the n/a cams are a lumper duration than the turbo cams. Thanks Damqik

Agreed, Killer is the TPS connected? as I cant recall seeing it in your pict's. Damqik

RED17 a vl (rb30) dosn't have a blow off valve to protect the turbo from backfires a rb20det - rb25det & rb26dett dose backfire's wouldnt be an issue. A backfire on gas would be caused from incorrect tuneing or when changeing from one fuel to the other (duelfuel setup). R31_GTSX I used to work for a shop (in Nundah Qld) that did lpg conversons. I have only seen the rb30 motor on gas and some vg30's none of which had any issue's. Damqik

Running straight gas could be advantagous as you could lose the the weight of a fuel tank injectors ect, and mount the bottle in the fuel tanks place or run 2 skinny bottles for a 32 thus keeping boot space, the gas jet would need to be mounted before the factory throttle body but after the ic. boost would help compress the gas more compared to a high pressure fule system with injectors and the gas is already under pressure and compressed in the bottle. The luberication issues with gas was only with cars running on the old super leaded type fuel wasnt it?

I think that map sensor your talking about (next to the brake booster) only functions to operate the factory boost gauge. Damqik