DAMQIK GTS-T

Its an air bypass valve these are found on a lot of nissan type motors (R31- R33 that ive seen), it is used to allow air to bypass the throttle body during warmup (one side of it is connected to the inlet pipe the normally crosses the top of the motor before the throttle its connected the inch thick hose that is next to the BOV and the other side connects to the aac valve body after the throttle). It functions sort of like opening the throttle. I belive BUT not sure it electricly is only a heater that closes the valve as its heated and is powered the entire time the ign is on. Disconecting it wont affect the computers functions though the car may struggle to idle smothly when cold. Most people have never seen it because its normally mounted under the inlet. anyone else? Damqik.

I have also tried the 32 brace on my 33 it dosnt even seem that the thing can be easly modded to fit.

The first (and cheapest) thing to change is the fuel filter.

The solinoid wont show up as a fault code because there isnt a code for it. Damqik

The standard ecu requires that the standard boost solenoid be left pluged (electricly) in or the ecu will go into limp home mode (over rich) defult timing and fuel maps. I would suggest that you reset the ecu and re test drive the car let us know if you still have any problems. (note the ecu will need a reset to get out of Limp home Mode. Damqik

A blow off valve (plumback or atmo venting) protects the turbo from spinning backwards. imagine a turbine shaft spinning @ 80000rpm the car backfires and presto the turbo spins @ 20000 rpm or faster the other way, this can and break the turbine shaft break cermic turbine wheels and generly stuff the turbo bearings. not a good thing also the bov takes pressure off the throttle body butterfly which can be jammed open or closed due to a backfire. my 3 cents for what its worth. Damqik

I have a r33 gtst 94 model the best I can get with out pinging @14psi is 23 deg however 25 deg feels more powerful up high though it starts pinging @ 5500 or so rpm at that timing setting. macka Ive tested to see if there is a difference between the pick up loop and plugging in the coil to an ign lead to the spark plug, and there is no difference (using a snapon programable timming light) my $25 supa cheap timing light also reads the same weather placed at the coil or the loop. I think getting the loop through the pickup properly has more bearing on the accurcy of the reading. I have also found simply sitting the pickup on top of the coil gives a good reading if not too close to the No 2 coil. Reagrds Damqik

the stock base timing for a 32 is 20 deg and they do have the loop to put the timing light on to but it is sometimes taped back to the loom, removing the tape dose not reveal anymore than the desired loop wire the others will remain in the main loom tape. Regards DAMQIK

I would suggest draining the water from the motor as water and oil dont mix well.

I think you guys will fix this problem of the 5000rpm hesitation by advancing the base timing between 23deg & 25deg however this may require the safc to be re tunned. This has worked on three other cars that I know of with the 5000rpm problem including mine. Regards Damqik:)

Just a comment about the pineapples isnt there three ways to set them up? 1.no squat (for drift) 2.full squat (for drag) 3.Combo of both (for every day sports driving but firmer arse end than stock) Just something I read somewhere

Well I recently fixed this problem with my car, There are several things to test/check/clean 1. I had to replace the o2 senser (my old one rattled internally causing all sorts of miss readings) 2. clean/replace the Afm (mine had a bad connection internally which caused the car to stall randomly) 3. clean/adjust Acc valve (mine was sticking) 4. ensure the ecu is not in diag mode (turn the fine screw all the way to the left on the unit. (this caused fast idle on mine) I have a vent to atmo bov which many people told me was the problem this I have found to be untrue. It would seem the moulitude of problems made mine hard to diagnose nobody had quite the same symptoms as me. I was getting about 150 klm to a tank (running very rich all the time) Car would die for no reason no matter what speed. generally rough running. my car is not yet perfict as i feel the plugs are fouled from running so rich for so long, but for so many things to go wrong with it at once is just freeky pleased to say all is good now smooth idle ect just seems to break down at high loads prob due to the plugs. Hope this helps someone Regards Damqik

I have sucessfully repaired my old afm in my car, it would occasionly cut out the engine whalst driving. after replacing it, I decided to see what made the thing tick, stripping it down I found that the connecters on the other side of the connector plug to the circuit board were not soldered properly, hence re-soldering the connections repaired the Afm. Its easy to do you just need a small soldering iron and some solder, knife and silicon sealent (Sensor Safe). 1 with knife cut away seal of the square top and remove 2 with hot iron in hand de solder copper plate 3 resolder contacts from plug to circuit board 4 resolder copper plate 5 silicon back the square black top back into its place 6 test. Regards DAMQIK

Well then wouldnt it make sence to try cutting the std gear stick, if ya don't like it then get the quick shift? Word of caution: there is a rubber cushoning bush inside the belled out bit of the stick cutting this out would tranfer gearbox shock through to your wrist. If ya know what i mean!? my 2 cents ex Gst. Regards DAMQIK

Or if you know someone that is a car sales man/woman get them to do a revs check on the car's rego that should give you a name-address. To go through transport or the court you would have to give over your name and if you intend to work around the law you dont want to do that. (Not that I'm suggesting you should work around the law)

If this is the case then it may be the contacts in the mirror then, as power is put to the mirror the mirror folds out or in, when it gets to the end of its travel the switch contacts get opened. Have you yet pulled the mirror apart? there is also a heater in there to melt ice tho this may of been one of those skyline options so the heater may not be on all models, I cant see any reason why you couldnt take the mirror apart and clean the contacts as I feel it is unlikely that the mirror folding motor is burnt out. My passanger mirror somtimes sticks open but if I give it a tap it then folds. tho before the tap the motor wasn't even trying to move. see how ya go with it. Regards Damqik

This sounds to me like a bad earth to the mirror relay, The other place to look is behind the glove box there is a small computer located up there, I have found that if one un-plugs this computer quite alot of things stop working. Such as the 20kph door lock, that beep under the dash, the windows dont go up or down and the mirrors don't work (to name a few) it may be when hunting for power or whatever they chopped a wire to this computer. Regards Damqik

Also clean your battery terminals Damqik

I killed my Crank angle sensor by de-greasing my engine. A clean engine bay isnt worth the money to replace damaged sensors or the hasstle of a car that runs with a miss or not at all. Regards Damqik

http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/fcd/diy_fcd.htm This one seems to address the issues of leaning out. and uses 8 components in total, and has full instructions although was designed for an RX7, but the voltages look to be the same. MYGTST let me know what you think of this one Regards Damqik

Cool Looks like it's going to be a big turnout, I almost can't wait Maybe this threed should get posted in the events section it could be the biggest cruse in history.

Tim dont forget ya two way. Bigfella, I'll lend you my wifes two way for the night. Regards Damqik

MSN = DAMQIK_GTST@msn.com ICQ = 219957794 Will need to identify yourself as a Skyline Australia forum member

Im on the Sunshine Coast Blue (Stock Colour) R33 S1 Damqik

I have a rom burner and 32 maps thinking of doing it yourself? Damqik