DAMQIK GTS-T

Not that there's anything wrong with that

If I can find the miss in my motor and fix it I'd be in for a skid pan day. If not I could bring down the wifes Tarago for some drifting :lol: Either way i'll be there. DAMQIK

Sounds as though it could be electrical (somthing breaking contact when u turn) try lifting the bonnet with the motor running and wriggle some of the connectors eg afm plug, injector plugs, ign module and ect. see if that causes the car to run funny could save your self $ in diag time. one other thing replace your fuel filter. Just to be sure. Regards DAMQIK

I did just that! I got one of those 870+ cca dry cells it's called an optima (yellow top). It only just fitted in the standard place of my R33 but I did have to get bigger terminals! I bought it form "Battery World" But their not cheap @ over $400. The reason for such a big battery you might ask? well I love BIG AUDIO. so I needed a big battery to run it and this battery has special terminals on the side of it, for the audio power connections (the idea is less induced noise from the cars electrics). Also being a dry cell they dont leak and dont give off dangerous vapours. Remember your battery is in the car with you only covered by a cloth back seat. and cardboard parcel shelf. it also came with a two year warranty. Regards DAMQIK

Me to I want in

Is that gear box an auto or manual 5speed? Im assuming manual will it fit a 34, 33, or a 32?

Sell the thing and buy one that was fitted with a turbo standard. Why you might ask well: the na has weaker diff suspension breaks ect...ect the cost of upgrading all of the things to a gts-t level would be much much more than the differance of the two cars, therefore if ya want a turbo, buy a car that was built with one (or Two) from factory. DAMQIK.

third party fire and theft is just that. if your car is pinched its covered. if an electrical fault causes the car to burn to the ground your covered. if you cause an accident your not. So drive careful.

Ive heard recently that there may be a drag strip being built on the sunshine coast. Ive also heard that the police are setting up a cruise meeting place at maroochydore somewhere near the police station. my 2 cents: both are needed here on the sunny coast and could improve police realtions with the local cruiser's and reduce the street racing. :uh-huh: DAMQIK

Is it true that the roller bearing's in the stock R33 turbo can't be replaced? if this it true should I have the center from a vl commodore turbo (Slip Bearing) fitted? This would mean new comp wheels (steel) and keeping my exisiting turbo housings and hi-flowing them. Thanks DAMQIK.

I doubt that anybody could get into my car the way that I mentioned as all is hidden, the most likely way any of our cars are gonna be pinched is on the back of a truck! (with Alarm SCREAMING) as no matter of hot-wireing is gonna get my car running for someone to drive off with it. DAMQIK

I'd go the Microtec LT12, It Features *loom adapter to plug straight into the std Skyline loom *built in map sensor (Bye Bye AFM) *Easly adapted for electrinic boost control using the std boost solinoid via a Knob *Pre programed with std map *closed loop *one could fit themselves and drive the car to the dyno shop. *Laptop programable *opt hand controller (you wouldnt need this anyway) *$1350 approx *Aussie made (parts easy comeby and can be serviced/repaired here. unless your going for a car thats not driveable on the street this would have to be the best for street use. (and one of the cheapest) BUT it for a manual only. check High Pearformance Imports mag issue no 24 on page 53 for the write up.

I keep the key and the spare remote in the boot (hidden) I have a boot release switch (electric) mounted under one of the gards also hidden, The key and or anything else won't open the boot as the lock is disconected. if I was dumb enough to loose my keys, I can simply pop the boot (setting off the alarm) and retreve the spare key and remote. Quite simple really. Damqik.

2 E Z Damqik

Yes that is the screw!!! the plug if you have an auto is for the kick down. the plug if you have a manual will be blanked off. On the same unit is the throttle pos senser.but it uses a different plug which comes out of the bottom of it. DAMQIK

Yep thats it, in ya pict just above the lid of the break fluid. turn it very slow with the motor running. once ya have the revs right give the motor a quick rev to ensure it donn't stall. DAMQIK

I have fixed stallling @ the lights and turning problems by adjusting the screw at the back of the inlet manafold. when faceing the windscreen with the bonnet its the one on your left and to the rear of the car, near the break booster. I have found this to adjust the idle speed a little but has more to do with air mixtures.

yes you would get the popping, even if ya fitted any bigger zorst. I used to years ago have a gemini after fitting a bigger zorst it suddenly got the pop's mostly happens when backing off while staying in gear. DAMQIK

I just cut the front corner out of mine and put a bit of a scoop on it so it sucks air from arround the headlight , since doing this it has a hell cool induction noise & flutter. can post pictures if ya like.

Im considering running a couple of diodes from the hi-beam to the the low-beam, so all four will go on at hi-beam (this is done at the relay's) (for those thinking of doing the same). DAMQIK

Same as Nismogirl I love the popping Go the HKS DAMQIK

yeah we could try never know it might fix both our cars. when ever ya ready DAMQIK

Dosnt matter what boost im running and it only started after I de-greaesed the motor. I have so far sprayed all plugs and conectors with contact cleaner chacked all the ign coils blocked off the factory boost sensor re timed the motor checked the cam timing reset the ecu non of these things have fixed the prob BTW my spark plugs are near new. anybody with any other suggestions for things to check? is there a test for the AFM? Tim if you hold your foot flat dose the motor rev past the problem?

Yeah but you can get a HICAS lock up kit and the gtst will drift just as well if not better. my2cents DAMQIK

Why wouldn't you keep it Your not gonna get a better car for the value of 16k to sell it you would have to get a safety fix all they request to fix. which would be another $100 at least before you got rid of it. Your car has allready got the wow factor without being to over done. Id keep it.