nv033

the thing that gave it away was ur bonnet....im pretty sure no other burgandy gtst has it....its pretty unique in that sense.... quote from Mr Spin Shit "Ive seen that ugly bonnet before....isnt it that whiteline car?" i replied..."his a mate....beleive it or not his turbo is standard...his ran a 11.9 with gas" Mr Spin Shit "Bullshit its standard the turbo was sent away to gcg to get rebuilt" i replied" with what...could it be one of those stage upgrades they do?" Mr Spin Shit "not quite sure" I replied " Really?...i dont think his had the turbo off before...could be some interesting news" :confused: GO FIGA!

y do u say that?

mate someone swears that a hi-flow was put on ur car before u owned it..... i give u credit on ur efforts and the fact that ur pushing so hard with ur current setup and running spectacular times....we soley rely on the information that you have provided us.....i just dont want to see others take ur path and be mislead because the information wasnt exactly true...... im not having a go at you....i just want to decifer whose spinning shit cause this is a pretty big ingredient to ur sucess if it was true....an easy reply would be "i have taken the turbo off and it is in fact standard"....OR " i havent taken the turbo off there could be some truth to it"....... so dont get so offended u dinky di gong bong boy :jump:

e11 halwreckmicrotech can :bananaman :bananaman :bananaman :bananaman :bananaman :bananaman :bananaman

can BBQ or SST answer a few questions........u seem to have a bit of experience in this particular discussion.... i think the forum has agreed that rb30 rods are capable of pushing 400rwkw....ive seen many 3L punch out ~350rwkw on standard rods and are thrashed day in day out... the weekest link being rod bolts...if u address this, shot peen them....wouldnt it make the rod pretty reliable?? a rb30 rod is physically thinner than a rb25 if i can recall......wouldnt this then make the rb25 rod physicallly stronger??? i just dont hear of rods shooting through blocks that often...... i also agree with peoples thoughts of revs killing rods....8000rpm i figure would be within the grasp of a shotpeened and rodbolted rb25 standard rod.....if i make 180kw at this figure the rod spins with the same rpm as when i make 300+kw....is this change required? what i dont get is when u upgrade the pistons and rods to forged items.....y leave the crank STANDARD??? obviously u will think twice about reving ur motor to 10,000rpm???? or does it mean u can rev to 9,000rpm??? is it worth the ~$1500 upgrade ? (obviously it is.... if ur pockets are deep enough, but what if they arent?...which i think that is what this thread is about) y dont people address the crank too???......everything is rotating and pumping on one another isnt it??? well thats what i think...feel free to comment

any particular reason for this?... i know it is a good idea...but do u know of the limits of a standard rb25 rod?.... do u know of someone possibly that spat one?...im interested in y u say this as it is ~$1500 extra especially if ur not going to be needing it?

e11's are awesome.....if u can manage $3000 its a tool :headspin: :headspin:

wild...please elaborate....400rwkw i think can be done with ease with a power fc...its just the other functions that dont exiist eg...launch control, antilag, data logging etc etc....all u would utilise on a wild motor....

i heard along the great vine that 2rismo is not completley stock..... apparently someone swears a steel wheel upgraded turbo is being used.... are u able to confirm this at all adrian?

ahahah ur funny..... they are an american piston known for there abilty with big blocks...eg $20,000 US motors use this piston http://www.patmusi.com/musi_motors.htm a bit more info here http://www.venolia.com/

whats ur budget..... power fc is bang for ur buck $1150 from nengun u can barely match it (dont forget to add cost of larger afm ~$500 for a gtr) other comps like the others u mentioned run a MAP sensor hence bypass the AFM my opinion 1.microtech....good value comp if u cant get a pfc to match ur application waste of time on a gtr bc it wont control the multiple throttle bodies 2.autronic is good but is expensive once u add all the hidden items they dont mention when u buy one its heavy on the wallet hope this helps

Due to unforseen circumstances...i have to slavage as much as i can back i have just rebuilt a motor and i am thinking of selling the bottom end......which includes Venolia Forged Pistons $1250 Nissan N1 rings to match $180 RB25 rods....shotpeened + linished $500 Block Machined - Bored 20th and Honed Crank- machined and nitrided ACL beaings big and small ends $250 ARP main studs and ROD bolts $350 metal head gasket $300 machine cost $800 assembly $500 all parts have been assembled and ran for approx 1800kms.... im am trying to get as much as i spent back as possible....reason only bottom end is for sale is that ive got a resonable offer on my head which has cams and has just been fully serviced...obviously something can be arranged for this as well.... the above cost me a bit over $4000.... i am asking $3500... or a very reasonable offer....the availability of this is upon negoitiation any questions can be forwarded to private msg or leave a contact number in which i will call u back on

Hand Controller for sale for power fc as title suggest r33 gtst...$150

hahahah u have developed a 6th sense :headspin: :headspin:

Thanks for the tip.... whilst playing with the hand controller next to the function for extra doors............ i saw a function saying VL goodness please select :shake: :shake: :jump:

its always fun picking ur brain sydneykid what compensations would u have to make if i have a slightly higher comp then normal, larger injectors, cams etc in terms of fuel.. more? or less? or it should run? it was a tune form croydon.... i wouldnt want to throw away the $800 the other fellow paid do i? :wassup:

Before i take it to a tuner...just got a power fc second hand from another r33 skyline...ive noticed it was mapped for a vg30 airlow meter when i started her up...it didnt want to idle....i changed it to the coresponding AFM and she started beautifully...i also noticed the car was completly cold and it didnt give me that warm up rev? (that higher than usual rev like normal ecus do... is this normal for a PFC?) and another thing once it acutally warmed up... i took it round the block for a drive and everthing seemed fine....switched her off and tried to start it and she wouldnt start again? :confused: Any PFC gurus out there that could possibly figure this one out? as its all new to me and any info would be greatly appreciated :headspin: :headspin:

im after the driver for the power window...would u consider seperating it one day maybe :headspin: if that chance does come up let me know cheers!

argos!

i only come in stubbies and a singlet sorry to dissapoint u if this is the case

if there is a vacumm leak ive noticed idle goes up.....when i give it fuel it idles but it doesnt drive cause it stalls all the time :headspin: :headspin:

sorry to bring this topic up again but these figures ur getting with injectors....standard rb25 and gtr....i was talking to a particular tuner in sydney...he said once injectors are at 100% duty they are fully open and hence no matter what after market computer u got...thats governs the fuel squirted in...the only way i can see the injectors producing so much power is increasing the fuel pressure reg....that still has its limits and i quoted him the figures as stated and he said thats utter crap.....and even if u do manage to squeeze all the flow out of these injectors...how bout on cruising...the injectors would flood the motor wouldnt it??? is that a good thing? this was back in jan 2003 ur figure of 411 rwhp was produced in oct 2003 was there a bit of conusion with the injectors thought to be used ? :confused:

anybody? please leave ur contact details....

U referred to some possible install problems on a previous post....it may sound like a stupid question but what sort of things could cause these sort of problems on install..... the fact that the vaccum drops to -5 and does not idle?? what is causing this? ive noticed on my car that if u give it more fuel it can idle....i pm'd u a question before regarding idle issues... i think this install of camshaft is the possible cause of my idle issues but mine are with aftermarket r25det camshafts into a rb25det.....how would advancing the intake cam gear affect this? :confused: replies would be mostly appreciated :headspin: :headspin:

if ur brother sits on a bobcat all day and can 1. drink macedonian methlated spirits 2. rest a vb on his stomach then thats him :jump: