autoworx

240-260 with xzorst and cooler mods atleast on a true figure....... my opinion is biased but my gtr runs so much better with the vipec its not funny . to me thats the key to the vipecs success , lots of after market ecus decreese drivability the vipec increases it.

as the vipec runs a map sensor its not as sensitive to air leaks as an AFM based setup however it could still be that particuarly if its a bad one. Most likely its electrical , so check harness as others mentioned . but it also could be fuel , I recently had a GTR with faulty injector which under load would not give enough fuel therefore no ingition in that cyclinder . we checked the ignition system over and over until we figured it out. and just to be sure double check your plugs , one might be fouled , electrode is broken or just not seated properly . I had a customer who sweared his splitfires were no good but it was a plug he had screwed in on about a 30deg wrong angle (aka on the piss)

our 1st one is on the next ship im starting to think these things will be like v35s soon.......

as a car imported under the now abolished 15 year rule the car will not have a compliance however you must have a copy of the import approval to register the vehicle contact Department of Infrastructure, Transport, Regional Development and Local Government and try and get a copy of the import approval for the vehicle if it doesnt have one or you cant get one thats pretty much the end of the road http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/utilities/contact.aspx Previous rego may not be enough , you may still need this document.

you will find that prices in japan will go up as the exchange rate drops and buyers have more yen to play with.

cant remember tv/navi but no leather/half leather . it was 12/03 but the customer was set on pearl white and it was very nice and clean again budget extra for premium or later model personally the full leather is hideous , the half leather is ok but not that great , the tv/navi more hassle than its worth to convert . give me one with a proper double din facia anyday and ill put my own decent system in it

tradecarview just kidding , one of the tokyo auctions . we have agents who personally inspect vehicles daily

i just bought a very nice one for a customer pearl white , 18' nismo lmgt4s and nismo exhaust , 60,000km non premium for 1.05 million fob. budget somewhere around there , bit more for the premium crap . the total cost of that is about 22-23k all up including tyres and immobiliser

haha! im shocked! a supplier I know has about 1200 cars on tradecar view none of which actually exist.

check for air leaks

personally I would use a slightly heavier oil than the 0 stuff in a 13 year old 100,000km+ rb also I dont know what nissan australia recommend for the vq35 on their aus delivered 350z but the jap/usa v35s use a super light weight low friction oil and weve seen some slight issues with a heavier oil in them here

try northside nissan

attessa pro with faster cpu and different settings personally the active lsd is not great and if it has problems you will end up ripping it out anyway. none of the extras are any advantage . neither are 33 vspecs that rare , a lot were made if you get a nice 33 gtr and its a vspec , great but dont pay any extra for the privilege

1700kg and auto hampers the aristo's performance no matter what you do to it but a stock manual r33 is nothing much . a few mods on the 33 would tip it back that way though

time for a wa subforum!

no cube has passed inspection yet and theres already a problem with them going into inspections . thats not to say it wont be sorted but dont be suprised if it does take a bit of time , 6 months is not out of the question at all . Ive taken 3 months + just to sort out discussion items with dotars over evidence on new models before.

with the gtst/gtt solonoid we recommend changing to the beefier gtr one . they wont hold much extra boost unfortunetly , r34 is worse than r33 also r32 gtr one is cheap as chips though and works great

I fully endorse other gtrs opinions great turbo , full bolt on kit , every washer , gasket , bolt and clamp you need only problem is expensive with current exchange rate

99% likely con the damage you have described is equivelent to hitting a tree at 30-40km , you would not walk away from the force of that impact with a dirt bike ask for 3 quotes , insist on one of them being a panel shop you know or have talked to go and see the car at the current repairer , get photos of all damaged parts take those to repairers and get an opinion in writing if you can its difficult to believe you can hit a car with a dirt bike and need radiator support , re-enforcement bar and cross member replaced thats a pretty big crash ofcoarse we havent seen the damage but its still pretty unlikely

big shed + perth heat + cheap install = sad sad dyno the cost of the dyno is not the issue with running the dyno , a decent install if you want to be able to run your dyno frequently during the day will set you back 50k minumum for a decent cell setup with fans , extraction and sound proofing . on top of that commecial rents , insurance , public liability and indemnity etc etc etc . plus if its not a dyno dynamics no import guy cares anymore and no 4wd cuts out a lot of work also.

you can buy splitfires individually to replace a dead one

if you just need some normal std rotors rda make some very affordable new rotors , not really worth going 2nd hand at their prices if theres meat enough to skim them skim them , even if you get another 6 months at 20$ each does it matter . then its time for new ones

with the exchange rate the cost of support parts is through the roof price up some new jap turbos , manifolds , fuel system and intake gear and you wont have much change left at all

wire the old factory xenons back in , theres like 2 wires to change , everything is still there . unlikely to be the conversion to h1 as there are only 2 wires changed but stranger things have happened . its more likely another electrical issue though . i have some spare bulbs for stock setup grab a couple next time your in

himount can = emissions test and thats either a tuning saga at $$$ per hour dyno time or back to mostly stock and chuck it all back on after either way can be an expensive pain in the bum