a31lunacy

clutch master cylinder from PBR direct replacement and cheap too cost me 46 bucks part number jb1431 enjoy nissan shit is so overpriced also fits silvia and r32 i think

and i dare say i'm still using the rb20 clutch system that was on the car orig even though it was rb25 when i got it

hey all well we just finished a rb26 conversion in the ceffy and when it came time to put the car on the dyno the car would not disengage with the pedal all the way to the floor. the clutch is bled fine, we are running a rb25 gearbox and a direct clutch services solid centre twin plate clutch + flywheel with the standard rb25 thrust bearing(new of course) + fork pivot(not spaced). now we wound the adjustment at the clutch pedal to its maximum and this fixed the problem but the clutch pedal HAS to be touching the floor hard to disengage the clutch and over time obviously when the clutch wears slightly the same problem will occur so what can we do. also i am not going to risk things in regards to hard gear changes while the car is like this want it fixed before i start giving it a load. to fix this problem i'm thinking maybe a spacer and upgraded fork pivot ??? or i have read about the use of different thrust bearings and carriers being used with all the jap brand clutches has anyone had experience with these particular clutches ??? also im thinking whilst this is going on mabey a braided line and by passing the jointing block would help things slightly ??? any help would be great

have a good read through redlines pdf files it says dont use redline shock proof in a well worn gearbox use it in good condition gearboxes only

shock proof is recommended for gearboxes that are in good condition it is able to be used in syncro gearboxes but only if they are in good nick no syncs crunching and all that otherwise your box will have a much shorter life i run heavey weight shock in my rb25 box and its great smooth shifts and engages great recommended it but be prepared to choke at the price

the sluggish thing i would point at the cas drive maybe being worn and causing this but as for zero compression im at a loss

just asking a question next time ill ask your permission hey he could have been heading in the wrong direction obviously not if he was i would have tried to help you know the whole point of the forum thing....

hey you are both douches

yeah i would like pics thanks or ya dont have a sale outta me sorry new member high risk parts you can post photos at least of each of the parts i ndont think you have them

sorry i thought we were talking about the ones from the power steering pump

you know that inside of the rubber is a flexible metal line so the rubber being slightly perished will not affect the hoses that is what the fluid travels through so replacing them would be for a purely aesthetic reason

the vipec also sits inside your stock ecu case ?? so its fairly undetectable correct me if im wrong

i have them in my ceffy they seem to be good not too bad actually lots of adjustability but they tend to not last too long especially on aus roads do some research and you will find that the always seem to be sold with one or two leaking or knocking so to sum up when they work they work really well

may i ask why you are doing this ??

try a wreckers or find someone on here who is wrecking the model you need its how i have found most of my bits

bumpy

hey ive got my old stereo up for sale its a pioneer deck or carrozzeria whatever same thing its the deck that has dolphins and f1 cars playing on the display when it idles and has a built in md player was top of the range when released and still shows the decks of today how it rolls . also with that i have a cdx-p650 6 cd stacker also pioneer have the cables and the remote for it everything works great only thing you will need is a band expander to run aus radio stations want $160 for the lot also haver a set of used sparco pedals they have all the gear ya need to bolt em on want $ 60.00 located in adelaide both prices dont include postage that will be extra

bump

sold

40 $ inspection fee is that a transfer rego fee or something i paid 170 last time i went for an inspection

go redline oil number one choice and then motul anything else really don't get a mention in my books you would be surprised how much of a difference a good oil makes to the performance of a car turbos spool faster engine revs easier and not too mention its better protected

heres a pic of mine that went into a cefiro used rb20 engine mounts and had the sump modded

yeah thats the whole point so ya can have screamers without the external gate

bump

sorry mate kinda after cash or a wr450f