jet_r31

Andrew you need to let me borrow that turbo for a weekend to put on Steves vl..lmao, that t04z/35 is terrible and the cause of all his problems.. cheers darren

Do your own thing ,if you don't like whats said, ignore it or leave, no one will care either way, good luck with the turbs cheers darren l

ebay, its installed before the solenoid. If you pump is separate to your tank you could put it before you pump. I can't as i have a pump mounted in tank setup I woudn't run a system without one as there seems to be a bit of shit in the meth from the speed shop, would clog up a jet very easily, judging by the shit i am cleaning of the filter mesh, woudn't bother a fuel system Well done at the drags aswell andrew..your .cars a beast, real nice street setup! Also to point out here, as its not written much on net at all , DON'T use teflon tape or such on fittings, only proper thread sealant unless you want to lose a motor, the shit ends up getting sucked through and WILL end up in your jet, its only a matter of time..... might not happen overnight..but it will happen..lol I see some forums say it alright..it is not, even if you use a small amount cheers darren

checked every 5000km, but to be honest, the jet has been fine, i only had problems with it before fitting the aem filter. My wife drives car everday, and it switches on at least once a day going up the hill to take kids to school, so maybe that keeps it from any build up aswell? cheers darren

Honestly as much as we are giving the poor guy grief,and i think the turbo choice is abit merr...the workshop he has working on his car is excellent and the guys there are really nice and professional, id let them work on my car anytime and trust me, thats a compliment. First workshop ive seen for a long time where people aren't jaded and they have enthusiasm for there work, a refreshing change.. they have no magic fairy dust, that dyno reads low all the time Hope you get a good result and your happy! ...go buy some meth, add 10 percent to 98 octane , get rid of meow ..lol cheers darren

i talked to pete at nistune tonight, going to go back to the dyno again in 4-6weeks hopefully as i replaced my blow-off valve and it was leaking 7psi when i tuned it last time.//so the poor hypergears G3 was running 26ish psi to get 19psi in manifold. And had no comp flow left. Comes up on boost much harder now. want to check out cold start and road tune aswell as its a daily/holiday car wmi been on car now for 12months, had no problems once i installed the 30 micron filter, clean it out everytime i do oil change at 5000km. seems to be a bit of shit in the meth i have been using. Without the filter you would be asking for trouble, but it catches it all, nozzle has been perfect cheers darren

im guessing the drains as people call them, aren't liked when people don't do them properly... or have no idea what they are for..they are not to drain oil back... its -16 in size(not -10 or some f**king shit) with one or 2 of them from rocker cover to sump done properly... one usually does the trick cheers darren

sweet as, sounds unreal, how did it all fit with stocky manifolds?, have to change anything or lower motor at all? Can't wait to see how you go at drags , it has a low 12 in it if you get that 60' down. cheers darren

gotcha stao, so instead of maximium flow with that turbine with maximium response, the brief is 3540 comp wheel flow with maximium response? cheers darren

be interesting if during you ss4 development you could grab one of those gtx3540 copy billet wheels that are for sale everywhere to throw into the mix to see where your wheels stand next to a gtx3540 be also interesting if once you found you perfect comp wheel for the ss4 if you then tried it with a gt3788 type turbine to see what effect it had on the comp wheel with less backpressure cheers darren

Im no expert, so take it with a grain of salt, but i think they are to big and suited for 60+- to 67mm turbos i'd use something in the 250's for a 3076 to fill up the powerband cams need to be be matched to turbine/exhaust flow, as thats always your bottleneck....backpressure sure you can shift your powerband to the right, but backpressure will be the one to have the final say in the matter and nose the curve over generally, no matter how big the camshaft fitted cheers darren

Yep im not hatin just..loling. You bought the turbo on the premise that it will do 330rwkw..ok what car did they do that it did that on. Was it a stagea...no was it auto...f**k no was it internal gate.. was it on stock manifold... was it on E85... was it on a RB..yes And please don't tell me it was the R26/30 180sx they tuned Now fill in the blanks and really see how it effects you, as changing one thing drastically effects the other hence the information you got in the first place that you chose to ignore.. The other thing i hope they are not doing is comparing hypergears figures on dynapack to the dynapack they use and compare to there dyno..that f**king thing reads heaps higher even in SAE mode than chequered tunings that stao how do i know..ive used it and used your one unless i have the most epic G3 type A in the land making 320rwkw on 16psi on 98 octane through a auto on a stock ex manifold ...f*kn lol cheers darren

They Have for a long time, welds look awesome in 17's cheers darren

theres heaps..my 15x4 convo pros with the bigger offset fitted over my r33 caliper and rotors..let alone all the 17 inch front runners they make these days that easily fit over them yeh space savers fit, i used them with m/t front runners aswell..but aren't they banned now ford stud pattern makes it piss easy cheers darren

slicks absorb f**kload more shock due to softer sidewalls, radials absorb f**kall=bang go driveshafts/unis/gearbox Autos will get away with it far easier as they don';t "hit" the tyre as hard you can also pedal a car on slicks easier , radials when they let go are heaps harder to recatch/re-grap slicks as you start backing off you can feel them regrap People here are slow to catch on as radials are trendy to have, but they are a expensive way to go drag racing..and slower.. cheers darren

leave suspension or put stock shit in..buy slicks and frontrunners..., don't fit drag radials, even though its trendy unless you wish to break a lot of shit. cheers darren

Surely the workshop can define alot...i find it can sometimes mean none, one, or lots..lol

well not really..you got assf**ked by bill with your first turbo, assf**ked by your engine builder theres plenty of info here to tell you why the gtx3076 woudn't be a good thing for what you want but you seem to like to get spoon fed,your the type of customer workshops dream about..lol money doesn't buy brains sadly

4bidn1 has a a 3076 56t ,63 same setup/gate on stockyband he had auto aswell i have hypergear g3with old bigger 58t comp wheel/bigger turbine/bigger .82 exhaust housing now lets guess which one has way more power under 3800rpm the 3076 woudnt even make 1psi on a stock converter.. of course you workshop woudnt know this... remember you have to move a big heavy car. Good ole adelaide workshops..lol

Id be looking at Precision 6466 cheers darren

Yeh i have external..on dyno before fixing leak, it went 19-16psi..it now holds 19-20 psi on wastegate spring tension so i have no idea what power it makes atm so this summer will take it back, touch up tune and see if it makes power with a tad more boost(22-23psi) to cold to work on cars atm..lol cheers darren

They sell it at hydraulic places.. in my state anyway, thats what the application of it was first used first for cheers darren

doesn't matter..if you use jaustech dyno, no turbo will get near what people quote anywhere else, it seems to be a heartbreaker you'll struggle to get 250-26rwkww on it..don't worry about 350..lol.\ I have a hypergears G3 type A , on that dyno on 98 it did 258rwkw i think with boost 19 to 16ish up top. Jaustec apparently did 5 other 3076 56T .82 setups and they all made in the 250's maxed apparently on 98..However i found my blow off valve leaking after that, so i think theres a bit more in it as when it stopped leaking ...19psi it was setup to went to 25-26psi... Anyway i get 2-3psi on stock converter 2-3psi by 2300rpm, it pulls nice from 2800ish.(theres a lull around 2500..thats not the turbo, thats the turbo trying to build boost against the stock converter and the converter holding it back ).after that i have never checked as i have a digital gauge but from there to 3800 i get plenty of boost, enough to out acceralate normal traffic, easily and climb big hills etc without downshifting 3800rpm i get 20psi, and it makes goes fastest if i shift at 7300rpm and holds okay to 7500rpm then drops off. the FNT is good, from 2300- to 3800 it flat out works I'd go the ss2 if i had the choice again, having said that ,what i have i really enjoy and wife likes it to Unless you piss of the 98 octane , you'll never make huge power, 250-270rwkw will be about it, dyno depending without retard lag Really, your wasting that pretty motor unless you go E85/WMI/ or fuel spike cheers darren

agree with this 100 percent..funny as..maybe its not worth doing..i agree with that....will it lean out cylinders..i highly doubt it, have a funny feeling you have more problems with tapered plenums in that regard, but i have no factual evidence to back that up cheers darren

No they won't...series 1 need the cradle modified to fit..series 2 they go straight in..its only a 15-30 minute job, doesn't get any easier cheers darren