Proximity Motorsport

Can I please have my name changed to "Proximity Motorsport" And where the hell do I click to make a damn donation!? I can not find or search it anywhere?

Car is all tuned now, and estimate around 130-140rwkw. It still has a stock intake too. Will post more when extra work is done and we dyno it. Its got bugger all timing in it, needs E85 to supress the detonation R31 Idle.mp4

RB30E R31 Ausdel Big Cam, Shaved head, Link ECU Hey Guys, I have recently started to mod my NA RB30E R31 Skyline. It is my daily driver, and my work commuter. I own Proximity Motorsport in Mackay, and I also contract out to the mines, and drive over 1000KM each week I work out of town. So this car needs to be reliable, and fun. We operate the Whitsunday Drift events up here too, and this car gets hired out for people to thrash for 1 hour periods. Recently I upgraded from the Nistune ECU to a Link ECU. With the upgrade came a Comp Cams 285 Degree cam and 80 thou off the head. Here are some pics of how we clearanced the pistons for valves. A little agricultural, but this is a budget build too. IMG_0935.3gp

What boost is it reaching, and what is it dropping off to and at what RPM? Has this issue just occurred or has it always been there?

http://www.mittlerbros.com/media/pdffile/Accu-Lign-Manual.pdf

Hey guys, I've been looking into getting some wheel alignment equipment for my home garage, because my car is too low to get on any machines in town, and I'm playing with it all too often to be paying all the time. With our new drift track nearby and my track car on a fast track to being running, I'm going to make good use from a home alignment system, working on other peoples cars too. I have been looking into the hub plate style, like the accu-lign from mittler and bros and BBX Racing Hub Stands. I'm asking has anyone here used these style of wheel alignment equipment, and to what success? My main concern is I can't see how you could settle the suspension, after jacking the car up to fit the stands, ones lowered back down. And is the castor and camber measurements taken off another tool that is attached to the plate, like a spirit level style....? Thanks, hope someone here can help me

I have a heep of PDF files with drawings from every single lug/ pin/ rail/ bracket and step by step how to assemble, all the legal requirements, lenghs for everything, max and min sizes, how to mount hitch, lighting circuits, a complete list of all the metal you need to buy. I will email it to you if you want. PM me your email address.

I have seen that done once before.. but its alot of money for a track car. I tried to fit an R32 dash of mine, and it needed alot cut out and didnt line up with the windscreen very well, so i scrapped that idea. Budget alloy dash is probably gonna be the go, unless someone in Mackay crashes their S13 with a mint dash haha

Yeah, I thought about doing something like the top one, and if I can find a good condition S13 dash for reasonable price I will. Otherwise it will have to be custom. I do have a sheet metal bender that does up to 800mm wide, so should be able to do it myself, along with the tig to weld brackets onto it.

Thanks Risking. Have you got any good websites where I can purchase auto electrical gear, such as plugs, cable, flasher units, relays, fuse boxes. My local town has a huge mining tax on everything, much cheaper to buy from a major city based company and posted here. If you wouldn't mind do you think you could please send me a copy of some wiring diagrams via email? Just a basic one, that I can get half an idea from. I can follow diagrams, but from scratch I would not know where to start. Feel free to PM me, thanks

I took the s13 dash to the dump, it was cracked, and looked shitty. I was searching ebay today and found one in worse condition for $80, what a rip!!! I dont know what I'm gonna do. Havent ever seen a full alloy dash in a s13 like barts Feroza had. I will probably go with a Racepak dash, as buying guages to suit the LS motor for speedo, rpm, water temp, oil temp, oil pressure, etc will cost a fortune. Gotta find out if Racepak is compatible though. My current interior, pretty bare

Hey, Building my track 180sx from home, and just trying to get some ideas of how I can brace the car up, make harness bars, and even things like custom switch panels, alloy dashes, transmission tunnel covers. Basically post what you have made or seen, pics of fabrication in interiors and how you did it. Just chasing ideas!! I will post pics soon of how I will modify my R32 GTS-T rollcage to suit 180sx... if it needs any mods! And dont flame me, I am 1000km north Brisbane and its not easy to sell large items due to shipping, and I have a r32 cage at home I dont need so... cheers

There is just a banjo bolt holding the line on there, shouldn't be a problem at all if you twist it 90 degrees and bolt it back on, as long as it can stretch that lengh. If the hose is tightened, with a twist in it, it will reduce the life span of it, but worse come worse get a shop to make a new line up

Hey, I have a 180sx I'm building for track only use with an LSX motor. It has no wiring at all in it, and I am going to wire it up from scratch, but I have found some universal chassis harnesses on the net for sale. Here is the one I'm looking at http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-890021/ Just wondering if any of you guys that have done full chassis harnesses, which route did you go, and any other harnesses that might suit a 180sx better. For the price, a full custom one made from scratch wouldnt be much cheaper, plus the time it takes to make it!!

Yes, Rear upper camber arms is exactly what you need. You will need to get a wheel alignment afterwards. There is a range of brands to pick from. JJR, ISC, Cusco, KKR... I dont recommend non brand ebay items. I run JJR in my car.

thanks mate, Just ordering a few fittings from summit cause its alot easier than running hard line.

cheers, any idea if its -3 or -4 lines? are the calipers the same thread?

Hey, Just wondering if anyone can tell me what type of thread comes out of the calipers and BMC on r32/r33. Pretty sure its a metric thread. Thanks

love it! a bit of enthusiasm for my car, r32 LS1. I havent got a motor yet, just doing chassis atm.

cheers mate. I did tell him to pull the pedal box out and tack weld it together when the master was out, because I had snapped one before, and Im pretty sure the nismo ones are just tacked with a mig instead of spot welding. He said he looked at it and it looked fine, but your probably right. Something has had to have happened. I have never heard of these just breaking.

Hey, A mate of mine just purchased an r32 4 door GTST. Its got 409RWHP so it has a pretty heavy clutch in it, and it does feel rather heavy to the foot. It also has a nismo slave cylinder. Now the problem is, after driving about 1500km over a few weeks of owning the car, the clutch all of a sudden went spongy and stopped working, so he had a look and the rod the comes out of the back of the master cylinder and connects to the clutch pedal, via a little u-shape bracket that is threaded onto the rod for adjustment, is actyally bent! The rod is bent where the thread is, and the u-shape bracket is bent too. So he got another one off a mates car, and after driving to Brisbane from Mackay, around 1000km in one day, the clutch did the same thing again, although obviously there wasn't much use of the clutch being on the highway... So anyways, i think its kind of wierd, and just wondering if any of you guys have ever come across a problem of bending master cylinders due to a heavy clutch, or whether there maybe something else wrong in there.... Opinions? Thanks

Yeah I know exactly what your saying.. But he wants it, and it's not my car, so I cant tell him what to do. But not sure if you understand what I'm saying. The throttle body and TC unit is one piece, with two butterflies, and the TC has a control unit with motor... and I'm thinking of cutting it in half, so the TC unit is alone with its butterfly, control unit and motor, and plumb it into the cooler pipes in the inner guard, and just want to know if it will still effectively work.

Hey guys, I have a mate who has an r34 GTT 4 door auto with Traction Control. He has asked me to fit a highmount turbo and greddy plenum and fab his intercooler piping. He has already purchased a greddy plenum, but was told from a shop he was going to goto the you can't retain the traction control with a forward facing plenum. I had a quick look at his car today, and saw how big the throttle body / tc unit is, so I can understand why it won't fit, but I was thinking, maybe you could just cut the TC part of the throttle body out, and if I have to, weld a 2.5" hose tail to one side if there isnt enough room, and extend the wires, and fit the traction control butterfly in the inner guard or something? If he can't keep the TC he doesn't want to fit the plenum, but I really want to put it on, as I hate the clutter of factory plenums. Has anyone ever toyed with this idea? Anything you can see going wrong with it? Thanks

Hey, My r33 speedo and revs are slow to react to what im doing. If i stretch out third, the revs will get to about 4000rpm and the car will hit limiter.. and the speed will say, show 80, but when i back off and coast in fourth, a few seconds later the speed will reach 110 or whatever speed I am doing. Its not inaccurate ( I don't think) but it is just slow to react. I have searched alot of forums and can't find anything on this problem. The car has white face dials, but they are still standard readings on rpm and speed. thanks

Mods - Please delete. My speedo miraculously started to work after the car was left off for a few hours