Proximity Motorsport

bump still got heeps for sale

Got a pic of mirrors and seat? And the rear window. Does it fit in like standard? Or I is it riveted or something?

SOLD thanks guys

Both heads SOLD

Pm's replied to

Hey mate. I'll clean it up tonight and get some photos. I haven't had a good look at it, it's been in the weather without spark plugs in it, but cam covers were on. I don't know what condition valves are in, I'll get alot of closeups and post them up.

$160 posted for bottom and sides. Located in qld mackay, can do pics on request. Pm's all replied to. Gearbox, speedo drive, tailshaft, clutch master, brake master, sold sold sold

Yes they are almost new! Pm replied

Sorry guys, headlights and bonnet wrecked in crash, so is front bar. The exhaust is standard. I have near new splitfire coils out of a neo head, I'm not sure if they will fit series 2 rb25? I will double check what the stock coils I have are from and post back. $400 for splitfires Boot carpet is immaculate. $250 plus delivery for everything, including under bootlid liner. Cheers

Hey, I have 2 heads for sale. One is a RB25DET Neo Head, minus cams, exhuast cam gear, lifters. No pics atm, but needs a good chemical clean - $250 And one RB25DE head with 70,000km on it. Head is complete with cams, valves, springs, lifters, cam gears... was running in car only 2 weeks ago, car is a write off atm, motor still runs. Head does not have the very front cam gear cover, but does have cam rocker covers, can be supplied with intake and exhuast manifolds if necassary -$400 Cheers, Leon 0448 233 105

Hey guys, I have a r33 series 2 GTS thats got front end damage. Everything must go. Just post asking for bits you need. Shell for $1000... very slight front end damage, the 1/4 panels are not even damaged. Will have pics soon

Hey, Got for sale some RB25 NEO SplitFire Coils, only 3000km on them. Im asking for $400. Give me a pm or call on 0448 233 105. Cheers, Leon

Hey. Yeah it has a good battery in it, and the starter is getting power, and it makes a clicking noise when I turn the key. When it stops raining I'll have to start pulling stuffed panels off it to see if wiring Is damaged. No worries guys thanks for that, just thought it may need something reset due to the airbags going off, thought it may be a safety feature to kill motor and lower windows

Hey I bought a r33 gts wreck and I can't get the windows or central locking to work, thought it might have something to do with the airbags releasing, I tried disconnectig battery, but still no good. The car won't start either, starter makes noise but it won't crank. Anyone got ideas?

looking real good mate. Goodluck with it

Thanks for the help. R33 racer, can you please tell me what clearances you would use if I'm aiming for 330kw ATM, but definately not ruling out going higher with a bigger turbo when funds allow for it. Don't think I'd go for more than 400kw though. If you dnt want to post it please pm me. I'm also after end float of crank shaft.. Anyone else have more to comment on the float I should aim for? And when you say bigger clearances, more pressure... How much pressure would you aim for? Nitto pumps have 120psi, that's almost double standard isn't it? What pressure are most of you guys getting from standard rb26 pumps?

Thanks for that Pacey. I'll give cubes a pm and explain my target, see what he sais.

Sorry should have explained number 3 a bit better. Just asking about the clearance I should be aiming for in mains and big ends. Is it 0.001" or 0.002"??

Hey, Im a 4th year fitter and turner apprentice, so Ive got a bit of mechanical knowledge. But I have never had anything to do with internals of motors.. Ive been googling, sau'ing and wikapedia'ing a bit now, and ive just stripped down my doner rb25, and I've gained a bit of understanding about how everything goes together now. Just some quick questions on bearings though. 1. Im going to use ACL bearings and I'm just wondering about the calico coated ones. Is that the type everyone uses? Are they good for a street car or are they short term high performance bearings. (motor will be peaking out turbo at around 330rwkw, on a mostly street drivin car, some track work) 2. When you guys build your motors do you use plastigauge to measure bearing tolerances in the big ends and main bearings? 3. Does anyone know what the tolerance is on the bearings, and do the bearings come with all info on specs with them from new? 4. How do you guys check the thrust? With dial indicator on the end of crank and just tap with soft hammer on other end? or is a wiggle and a push all is needed to move crank? 5. When torquing down big ends, I think the ARP studs recommend 108.5NM (DONT TAKE THIS AS 100% CORRECT) If its torqued to that setting, and I check the bearing clearance and its too small.. what can be done? Linish inside of bearing? 6. Has anyone had to lap the thrust bearings to adjust the end float? Or should it fit straight in? What kind of end float should I aim for? any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the pics. Your lucky, got a hoist. I dont feel like rolling around on the floor with a mig welding the underside of the car As far as I have read, if you seam weld half the car, the other half will be alot weaker, and crack. Is this true? If I only seam weld one side of the seams is it pointless, or maybe even worse for rigidity, and strength?

Hey guys, Ive got an r32 gts-t that I should really get my act together and make a build thread for soon. Its been off the road for over 6 months now and its almost a bare shell atm. I have cut all the rear 1/4 panels out and searching for gtr rear fenders to make steel widebody to fit 18x11.5" rear wheels. So i need to weld up where I have cut metal out from rear gaurds, so while I have the mig out im going to weld all the unwanted holes in the engine bay, and then I got thinking, the car is mainly for drift, it has a 6-point bolt in cage which im considering welding in, just gotta call my engineer tomorrow to check if it will be street legal. So im considering seam welding the car. I have been reading plenty of build threads and reading plenty of sites on google, but most of them are for rally cars, showing cars that are nothing like skylines. So im here, hoping that some people can give some hints on where to weld, and any tips, photos, different techniques. Im thinking spot welding every 1" will be the best, because i dont like the idea of stitching due to the heat generated and the effects of warping. Obviously up around the top of the strut towers is a good place to start, but from what I have seen noone welds down around the chassis rails which had me buggered? So if you can give hints on where to weld mainly inside the cabin. On another note I will not be welding both sides of chassis, just the inside (top). What have you guys done for paint removal for weld prepping? Im thinking just a 4" angle ginder with a wire wheel attached to it? Any help and pics are greatly appreciated, thanks

thanks

the download in the first post is corrupt file. I tried on two different computers and same error messages. Can someone please fix it thanks

I'll buy if your interested in posting to qld. Message me on 0448 233 105 if your keen. Leon

What condition are the rear 1/4 panels in? If ur interested in cutting them out and posting to qld 4740? I need both sides for wide body conversion