Simmo1985

My new JB clutch is in. Working well so far, it's just a Heavy Duty organic style. Not full monty. It seems to make a bit of a clicking sound when releasing the clutch, but the stock one did that too, so hopefully it's normal. Sucks to hear about your clutch slipping. Nothing worse than wasting ridiculous amounts of $$$ on something that doesn't do what you want it to! On a side note, when I went to pick up my clutch I paid by EFTPOS, it wasn't til I got back to work that I checked my bank account and noticed no money had left the account.. checked the receipt, my card was denied for some reason. If I was a scumbag I coulda got a free clutch haha, rang Jim up and direct deposited the cash straight away though.

Might wanna change your title from boost leak to boost spiking. Leak is when boost goes down.

Try PM'ing evil_weevil. Pretty sure he was after a set asap.

I just found out a chick from our work (different office - she's from our NSW office) got scammed on a 2006 WRX that was advertised for about $9,000 in Darwin. Pretty much same scam as discussed here. Silly girl.

The piping issue is fixed for now. Had a play around with it yesterday afternoon. I think the engine may have just needed to be driven for a bit to get back into position..? Can't make bowling tonight - got a mates 22nd bday celebrations on in the city. Haha, we're both pretty busy. I'm free Sunday though. I can hear a pretty loud sucking/hissing type noise from the front end of my intake plenum, around there, but can't pin point where it's coming from.

This arvo's not too good for me. I've got to go to my girlfriend's dancing concert. Can do any time tomorrow though. I've just got my car back from ABS, they've installed a Jim Berry clutch. Clutch is great. Apparently a piece of my old pressure plate had broken off haha. I've got a new problem now, my intercooler piping is hitting my fan, this was not happening this morning when I dropped it off at ABS ... sad panda. Hopefully be able to sort that one out this arvo. Can help you carry the engine tomorrow if that helps lol. If you fix my problem with the boost leak there's a carton in it for you or something of similar value!

The standard solenoid is already bypassed - got a manual boost controller (turbotech). What day? Marki, pm me.

Marki reckons he's up for the challenge hehe. You're more than welcome to have a crack at it.

Apparently it's hard to breathe if your looking directly down because of all the air rushing around. If this happens tilt your head to the side. Never been, so don't know how true that is.

Thanks mate. I spoke to APC (they're just down the road from here) and they wanted $300+ just to put my car on the dyno... No thanks.

Put me down as a potential. Hard to predicate what my funds will be like then, but still interested.

I doubt that's true. I've seen specification sites that say HICAS and LSD. At least they did for R33's. Considering pretty much all Skylines have HICAS I'm sure this would be common knowledge if it was true.

Think my car has either a boost/vacuum leak or a dodgy gasket. Sometimes when in the high rpms I get a loud high pitch whistle. My car also does not hold boost past about 4,500rpm. Holds fine until that point. This sound does not always occur, and occurs a lot less since turning boost down from 10psi to the standard 7psi. My friend's step dad is a nissan mechanic, got him to have a look at it but he couldn't find the problem. He was just checking it out at his home, so didn't really have access to a lot of tools etc. I wanna get the problem sorted out but not 100% sure where to take my car. The sound only occurs when boosting, so I'd preferably want to take it to a place locally that has a dyno so they can replicate the sound to help find where it is coming from. This is mainly to save myself the potential hundreds of dollars in time it could take a mechanic without a dyno to explore and eliminate the possible problem areas. Can anyone suggest someone preferrably on the southside of Bris? Thanks.

I'd just wait for the group buy to start up again. $195 delivered. Unless you are in some sort of rush?

I got KYB shocks, they're not adjustable unfortunately.

Oh ok, I thought the load stopped the bearing from making the noise. Yeah that's what I thought. I'm getting my clutch replaced on Friday, also seeing Jim Berry tomorrow to pick up my clutch.. I'll ask him when I get there. If anyone will know it should be him.

Yeah the rear guard lips will be ok if rolled upwards. The front guards won't be I don't think. When the steering wheel is turned to the right or left and the front wheels stick out the side, the gap between the top of the tyre and the guard is very small. Don't even think you'd be able to roll it as the bit that's almost touching is not the "inner lip" area, but the actual outside guard area itself. I'll try and take some pics tomorrow to better show what I mean. This area is only a problem if turning at speed causing body roll. So I think I might either need to get lower profile tyres, or new wheels altogether. Car is not super low, definitely lower than standard though.

Everywhere I've read on these forums has said the opposite to what you've just said. I thought the throw out bearing had load on it when the clutch was depressed, and stopped making the noise then? Ah well. It's one of the two.

You're going to lose most of that money either way, so do what you want to do. What do you want from a car? A reliable, nice car? Or a 300kw monster? You will probably lose less with the R34. R33's are hard enough to sell as it is at the moment.. if you spend $10g on it you put it into "special interest" bracket. Only people interested in heavily modified cars will want to buy it when you decide to sell. There's fewer people that would want to buy a crazily modified R33 than there are that would want to buy an R34 with some mods. This is due to the usual insurances and reliability concerns.

Wow.. third topic today about this same problem. It's your throw out bearing which is apart of your clutch. Search "clutch noise". If you can hear it over the noise of your engine while driving it's probably pretty bad. It's probably still the standard clutch in it. If you decide to do any mods to the car you will most likely have to replace the clutch at some stage. You can do it now and get it over with, or you can put up with the noise until then.. Or you can get the throw out bearing replaced, which unfortunately requires the gearbox to be dropped, so most people wait until they get their clutch changed. EDIT - By the way, welcome to the forums and to the world of Skylines.

Don't regret buying them, got them at a good price. The tyres and wheels fill the guards nicely (a little too nicely it seems haha). It'll probably cost me around $800+ to replace the tyres on all four wheels. If I sell the rims (probably get near $1000), I can then spend an extra $800 (total 1800) on new rims /w tyres. Guess I'll just keep my eyes open, see if any other wheels pop up that I like.

Mine's doing it at the moment. Been doing it for about 2 months. I'm getting my clutch replacing on Friday though. They'll replace the bearing then, it's located near your clutch. Not sure where to go to buy the throw-out bearing separately. Maybe ask Slide or Kudos (traders). They sell exedy clutches so they should be able to source a bearing for you. But yeah, don't stress about it at the moment. It's just annoying, not dangerous.

I bought some 350z track rims the other week, they are 18x8 with a +30 offset. The tyres are 245/45 on the front and 265/45 on the rear. Grip has improved incredibly since replacing the stock rims/wheels. The tyres are bridgestones potenzas from the top of my head, which although are very noisy seem to be quite good (took car for a drive in the wet the other night and had a lot more traction than I usually do). The only problem is the rear tyres scrape along the guards when turning into my driveway and negotiating other bumpy/uneven turns. The front tyres can also as well. These problems occur when the weight balance of the car is out of wack, i.e. the car is sitting on uneven ground, suspension is higher/lower on either side. I want to get into some track work early next year, if I stick with my current imagine taking corners at 80k/phr will cause the tyres to scrape on the opposite side to the way I'm turning (due to body roll). Brings me to my options: 1) Replace tyres with smaller profile tyres. This will return my speedo to normal (currently out of whack by about 10%) and should stop my scraping problems. Would I get anything trying to sell the tyres? About 60% tread? 2) Roll guards. If my rear guards were rolled it would probably fix the problem there, however even if I roll my front guards I don't think it will stop them from rubbing. This also runs the risk of paint being cracked during the process. 3) Sell the wheels/tyres and replace. If I went down this track I'd want 17" lighter weight wheels, something that looks half decent and doesn't cost a fortune. When I changed to the 350z rim I felt a slight decrease in stopping / acceleration. The rims apparently weigh 18kg each (without tyres). So a lighter rim would have more than one advantage. What do you guys recommend?

Cover note - ring up insurance, tell them car details, request insurance, they give you a reference number, you have a week or so to pay the bill (but are not obliged to pay, you can cancel). No insurance is silly.

Throw out bearing is buggered. This topic comes up heaps. Search is your friend .. Can still drive on it.