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Simmo1985

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Everything posted by Simmo1985

  1. My car's got an upgraded free flowing intake and exhaust and it only runs 7-8 psi on stock boost.
  2. I've just noticed a loud tapping noise from what I can only imagine to be my injectors. The sound comes from the left hand side of the engine under the intake manifold. The sound gets faster when I accellerate to the point where it is eventually drowned out by noise from the engine. The only thing I can think may have made them louder in the previous week was the fact that I ran an injector cleaner through with my last tank of petrol. Before that I barely even noticed them. Should I get it checked out? If I replace my injectors will the sound go away? I love my Skyline, but I have I had a whole bunch of issues with it already haha. Nothing serious, just the usual common problems that many others have experienced (missfiring, boost spike, boost leak). Ah well, it will all be running smoothly one day, one day when I am a very broke man.. It's sorta been fun solving these little issues. It'll probably getting annoying eventually.
  3. What the hell.. now I'm getting boost leak past about 4,500rpm... why is nothing ever easy????!!!! It was working fine for a few days...
  4. Simmo1985

    20" Tyres?

    My thoughts exactly. 20" is massive!!!
  5. Upgrade your dump/front pipe and cat. Then the easiest way would be to turn the boost up a couple of PSI. Maybe up to 11. I'd imagine you'd be pretty close to 200 then and should only cost ya about $500ish. I'd recommend the JJR split dump/front pipe and JJR hi flow cat. Very good price, check out the JustJap sponsor area of the site. Can top it off with some aftermarket engine management. Could get something like a SAFC II or Neo and get it tuned up. That'd be the cheapest way.
  6. Water restrictions must be tight over there... doubt those cars have seen a drop of water in their lives.
  7. I had the same problem. Read my thread, might fix your problem.
  8. Snap. That would suck if that's true. Let us know how it turns out.
  9. I'm also interested as I'll be getting a Neo AFC and will be wanting it tuned in the next few weeks.
  10. If I was in your situation I'd probably try and get an R32 or S13 Silvia / 180sx. Unfortunately you'd have to get a non-turbo due to the P plater laws if this was going to be a daily driver as well though. You can pick up non-turbos of the cars mentioned fairly cheaply these days, even cheaper if you decide to buy them from Japan.. Although it would be up to you, I'd stay away from the four door R34's.. as stated before the Skylines are a bigger car and aren't as suited to track from the factory as others (except the R32 imo). You'd save money getting an R32 / S13 and then can use that money to put towards upgrading suspension and mods.
  11. Yeah I get the same rattle, mine seems to kick in around the 320k p/hr mark though. It's a common problem.
  12. I think some DOT4 fluids are compatible with DOT3 systems, check your bottle to see what it's suitable for.
  13. For reference I recently paid $17k for my clean Series 2 with minimal mods.. it was about a grand higher than I was hoping to pay. I'm still very happy with it and think the price was worth every cent. There wasn't too many really decent ones for sale when I was looking. There always seems to be good cheap ones popping up in NSW and VIC though, maybe it's just my imagination.. Fuel economy is going to vary a lot from vehicle to vehicle. If the previous owner has not done it already I suggest you replace your o2 sensor fairly quickly. My fuel economy was increased noticeably after this, do a search on o2 sensors if you want more info.
  14. If you want improved control going over a bumpier road you'd want to be looking at upgrading suspension components, not the HICAS lock bar.
  15. Wow, haven't seen the token "if you don't speed you wont have a problem" post yet.. surprising. I'm lucky, I don't have to go past any regularly used radar locations on the way to/from work. Not that it would really be a problem if I did.
  16. Oh ok, I misunderstood what drifter meant. Will look into your suggestions. Thanks for the advice.
  17. My vote would be for a Toyota Hilux.. I have never owned any of the cars you have listed, but Hilux's obviously have established an amazing reputation for their reliability. This link proves my reasoning, if you haven't seen this there's a few more tests done on them haha. http://youtube.com/watch?v=O_NdFAoEQbE An absolute work horse. If you get a 4WD one you can have some fun on the weekends with it too.
  18. Ok, status update.. I checked the red hose - it did have a restrictor in the line. Removed it and re-hooked everything back up with the charcoal canister line. For some reasons my car does not run as well with this connected, it was hunting at idle and had hesitation when I was revving the engine in neutral. Took it for a drive, second gear hit about 7psi stable.. third gear however was again going over 12psi.. must have something to do with the length of the hose or something.. maybe when they installed the FMIC they had to move the charcoal canister to somewhere else? Maybe it is supposed to sit a lot closer? My friends 180sx has that canister thing sitting on the front right side of the engine bay, just to the side of the radiator. I guess I'll just disconnect the charcoal canister lines for now and block them off. Can anyone confirm this is safe to do?
  19. I disconnected the line that is likely running to the charcoal canister and connected only the pressure line to the boost controller. Car is now holding 7psi like an absolute champion. No boost spikes or drops. What's my best move from here? Just run the car with the charcoal canister lines disconnected and blocked permanently? I'm just relieved it's not my dump pipe that needs replacing!! Thanks for the advice so far guys, keep it coming ..
  20. Before boost controller it was running just the standard boost, was running it pretty much normally.. However at higher revs boost seemed to drop off, not sure if this is normal as I only took the car for a quick drive after installing the gauge before moving onto boost controller install.
  21. What is a charcoal canister :S ?? And would the pressure line be the top one running from the T piece on the left? Have to excuse my ignorance as I'm only learning these things still.
  22. A good friend of mine is really in to it. I saw him play for about 5 minutes, didn't really grab me. I've heard nothing but good reports though, guess I'll have to sit down and give it a go sometime.
  23. Here is a pic of my setup. Is this right? If not what should I change? I'm not too sure where that cord runs off to the left.. sorta disappears in near my radiator and seems to run to the bottom left hand side of the car. The intercooler is a Cooling Pro type 1 from Just Jap. I've heard that these kits don't have a nipple or something or other.. Is this apart of my problem?
  24. Btw, accelerating at half throttle boost seems to only go to around 10psi which is where I want it to stay. When pushing down to full throttle boost rises up past that and fast.
  25. Not sure if this means anything to anyone, but before I installed the boost controller I took the car for a spin (just installed the boost gauge) and it seemed to hit low-boost mode (standard boost solenoid was still connected) fine, went to 5psi on the gauge however boost seemed to drop off noticeably in the higher revs. I've got a feeling the problem is lying with the exhaust. It's a JJR split dump pipe.
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