marksuxass

Also on the same boat as you. Im finding the same kinda info. Some people have had dramas with them, where other swear by them. Seems to be big in the evo community. I think im just gonna go out an try one. Still dont know if i wanna run 6265, or the 6765 (TO4Z comparison). Also have a read through this! http://turbodirect.co.za/site/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=709&Itemid=21 Seem to throw out alot of assumptions on where the turbo will fail, but it seems they dont fail. I know the older plain bearing ones use to. But owell i reckon its a gooer

Also very interested in seeing these parts fitted. Was gonna go genuine until i saw these. Anyone need the OEM part numbers?

a catalytic convert is a "non servicable item"

Cheers for that Mr Baron. Ended up ordering a TS2CD the other night off RHD for a pretty cheap price. Had to order another one as this one was KECK. Needed to get balanced with the crank so i kinda needed ASAP. Car will probly not see many (if any) track days. Was really happy with the way it performed before my engine detonated, just wasnt too sure if it could handle my new aimed power figures.

6 psi, oh i mean 7

Time to buy a new clutch for my build as i need to get it balanced with my crank. Aiming for mid to low 500's at the wheels. Opting for the OS TS2CD, item was originally in the vehicle and felt like OEM item (only had 350hp though). Can only find 1 site with its rating and it says up to 600hp. Have also been recommended the excedy hyper multi (twin plate), or the excedy hyper compe-d. Im after a clutch feel that wont make my car a bastard of a thing to drive. The OS giken clutch that was originally in the vehicle felt like the OEM item and is why im opting for it this time too. Your opinions pleas?

These heads do flow well from factory, but one look into the ports and you can see theres room for improvments. Alot of the transitions are poor (bowl area inparticular), smoothing these out will aid in velocity and reduce turbulance, overall giving you a more "smoother" flow. A God at building rb engines once said "From the headgasket down its just a pump, from the head gasket up is where all your powers made". Some good read: http://www.skylife4ever.com/2011/04/rb26-engine-assembly-how-to-build.html

Some vids. finsihed result Pocket clean up. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DBGKP4nqcGE +1. I have never seen anyone run into problems from removing the exhaust bumps though. This mod is useless unless your running after market exhaust manifolds or if you have you standard ones matched.

Few things can be done to the head for your power output. - Leave the squish area as is. - Clean up inlet ports with 80grit, and knife edge the splitter. (remeber just to clean up and not take away mass amounts of metal). - Smooth out pockets inlets/exhaust (you will feel a sharp edge that pretty much extends around the whole valve seat) - Remove the exhaust bumps and polish exhaust ports. The main key here is to not take away too much material, and just clean up the ports. I ended up doing this to my build myself as this was requested to be done by my tuner, purchased a head porting kit and went away with it with guidence from my tuner. Running -5's on a forged rb26. Tunner says it will crack the 500hp mark no problemo's but we will see.

Sounds like the timing belts on too tight. Once the belts on you usually dont have to tighten the tensioner. With the belt on you just be able to twist the belt about 1/4 of a turn.

Sounds pretty much like a misfire on 1 or more of your cylinders. Isolate which ones are miss firing, swap coils/injectors from a known good cylinder see if it fixes it. Also do a compression test.

R34 does have a version of NATS (nissan anti theft system). Best bet would be to get a nissan dealer to order a key for you. Nissan dont send the keys cut anymore, but the dealer should be able to get it done for you. You will also need them to initialise it with consult. This process cant usually be done without the NATS security key in consult.

You mean these seals http://www.xs-engineering.com/xsstore/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=14&idproduct=12106

Where in perth are you gettin the work done? Id be doing coolant, front and rear diffs, gearbox, brake fluid and airfilter (if you dont have pods). Driveline oils arent really a must for the KM's youve done but why not?

I pulled mine out through the top. Manifolds and turbos can stay on. Took me about half/to and hour to take it out, but i already had the box out. I had trouble with the RHF drive shaft and couldnt get it to pop out of the diff. Ended up cutting the inner CV boot clamps on that side, popping out the circlip and removing the shaft from the CV housing.

Nope, i only ever used nissan coolant in my gtr. Pulled the motor down a few months ago and had f**k all corrsion in the coolant ports in the block, which is pretty strange for a motor that old. Also we have problems with xtrails and d40's overheating at work. Mainly because they've used a non genuine coolant or cheap coolant which has started electrolysis in the aloy parts of the cooling system. Look into the radiator and you will see a fine dust like substance all through the coolant. This infact blocks the radiotars slightly and inturn they over heat. Put your multimeter in the coolant and check for stray current and you will always see a reading well over .3v's in these vehicles. These customers have voided all warrarnty in regards to the cooling system of their car because of this. Not saying it would be the same in a vehicle with a cast iron block, but just gives you an idea of what can happen. Nissan have also released a tech bulletin to all the technicians about this which gives you an indication of how bad it may be.

Maybe look at getting a mild port done, remove the bumps in the exhaust port and polish, 80 grit the inlets and knife edge the splitter, polish combustion chambers and leave quench area (maybe just chamfer the edge on it). I ended up doing this to my head myself, just purchased a head porting kit of ebay, came up really good. As for the turbos -7s, -5s, even -9s? all depends on what you want out of your engine. Cams you dont really need to change, maybe just get adjustable cam gears and have them dialed in when tunning it? Could even use direct drop 260 degree 9.15mm in/ex but again all depends what you want out of your engine. Im actually going through a rebuild with mine atm and am way over the 10 grand mark!

Id use nothing other then genuine coolant + distilled water, 1 part genuine nissan coolant, 2 parts distilled water.

I work for nissan and we use cowleys for repairs and to get parts painted. Havent had a problem with them. Bretts a top bloke too. hahah

Yeah go an N1 pump. Would be best suited for your mods. Have heard there was a shit batch of them going around but. If your going to baffle the sump you might aswell put a block restrictor in it while the engines out.

Endless-r make some nice carbon ones with red stitching. Nengun sell them...

Tapped them in the other day. Need to drill 8.5mm and use a 1/8 tap, works a treat.

Sorry to be a hassle, but what chapter is the info regarding the tapsize for the nipples in your FAQ, im having trouble locating it!

Have tried to search but cannot find.... What i need to know is what size do i need to tap to put the map sensor nipples on an rb26?

Yep can also be the wiring but thats doubtfull. Try a new sender and see how you go?