marksuxass

one of these? http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=18184&cat=&page=1 not too sure on where it bridges, it might be at the pump, but im pretty sure its at the hoses near the hicas solenoid onthe drivers side of the engine bay?

Taken from that article. If i could copy and paste from magazine to computer i would have

yep twin turbo issue. Can happen in any rev range/gear. but mainly in the high gears lower rpm/under loard

This basically happens when the engines displacement is too small for the turbo application. What you need to do is think of it a little like this. An rb26 with twin turbos is essentially like having x2 1300cc displacement engines with single turbos on each (which in most cases is too large for the displacement. As you can imagine as you increase the turbo size (say gtrs's, -10's or even -5's) your tubro shuffle, compressor surge or axi-symmetrical compressor stall (what ever the hell you want to call it) will get worse. Hence why almost all gtr's fitted with gtr's or -10's will shuffle at some point in the rev range. Get an sr20 slap on one of the said turbo's to it and you wont see that type of shuffle (2000cc displacement engine running a turbo more efficient for its displacement). Now on how to try cure it. You can increase tge turbine housing to try slow the compressor down, (or use smaller turbos), but here you will run into another dilema, LAG. You can increase the engine displacement (why you generally wont here shuffle on a rb30/26 engine with -10's etcetc). You can try have your tuner tune it out, baffled turbo pipes etcetc. But the most effective way ive found is to use a 3 dimensional boostcontroller. Its basically an electronic controlled solenoid (by the ECM) with an rpm input ( which alters the duty cycle of the boost control valve as the RPM changes), and a throttle position sensor input (tells the turbo how much power the drive is demanding and essentially tells the turbo how much air the engine is capable of swallowing to avoid such a surge). 9 times out of 10 this will work. p.s ( i love brackets)

+1 for anthony scali @ xpseed. What kinda of prices are they charging you to do it interstate, and how much is frieght?

Did you remove the vanes out the back section of the pump to? i might try this mod out

I got an os giken twin plate clutch in my gtr, and it feels like an OEM one, if that makes you feel anybetter?

Thanks for that, anyone else?

Got an rb26 id like assembled as a short motor. Needs a torque plate bore, balancing, blue printing, assembling, cleaning, test for cracks (and the list goes on). Anyone recommend somone they have had good experiences with previously? Also places to keep clear of please PM me... People have recommended c-red? Thanks, Mark

ahh sweet does that just slide off the shaft its on? thanks for you help!

i pulled apart the pump the other day, soo just take out the bit that are rectangluar bits of metal in the rear of the pump?, does this work a charm?

Friends car did the same, intermittant misfire. Ended up being the injectors connector to number 2 wasnt clipped in properly. Try isolate which cylinder it is, then check the spark plug. If very fuely you have a spark issue, if its pretty dry you have an injector/fuel issue..

What sensore at the bottom are you talking about? In regards to where it bolts up to the block, you just gotta make sure the box is dropped down off its cross member to get to the top bolts. Unless your trying to get them from the top which ive never down before.

Ah ok i think i might just do the loop, is the fluid at that line going to be at a very high pressure (considering its not gone through the front solenoid yet, just straight from the pump?)

Im doing alot of restoration work on my gtr, and am looking at removing the hicas completely. Was thinking of looping the high pressure line at the hicas solenoid back into the powersterring cooler. But another option would be to fit an r33 gtr powersteering pump and mounting bracket. Has anyone done this to an r32 gtr before? If so where there any other mods that had to be done?

Will a HKS camp2 to work with a DLC harness if you have an after market ECU. Seeing as consult wont recognise an after market ecu, will the HKS camp?

What you should try is, take out the spark plugs, see if theres alot of fuel on them, if soo it would be spark related, if dry it would be more fuel related.

basically any engine needs fuel, spark and air to operate. take away any one of those items and it wont start. id be checking spark first, then check fuel.

oh forgot to ask, is the part number stamped on the actuall turbo itself? Thanks

Yeah just seeing if they had any visual difference's. All your help has been great!

cheers for that... other then that you cant tell the difference by looking at them?

Just need to know what the phyiscal/visual difference's are between the gt2860 -5, -7, -9, -10 etc.....

+1 i just recieved mine from them last week. Super fast shipping (and im in perth)

Is that both front and rear guards rolled? or did you get away with just rolling the rears?

Your fluctuating O2 reading is known as O2 sensor frequency (rich-lean-rich-lean), which is completely normal. Im pretty sure consult will read 20 degress BTDC when ingnitions on. And it will change whilst driving. Soo all sounds pretty normal too me.