Anquetil

Came as spare parts with the car but were never used. They are new, never installed, Xspurt 1000cc Injectors VQ25DET. $400 pp

A week too late mate, ALL PARTS SOLD.

Exhaust sold. Remaining: -SS intake $200 -1000cc VQ25DET injectors NEW Spuik $400 -HDi IC kit $300 pickup only

Wideband AFR - SOLD Remaining: -Exhaust $250 pickup only -SS intake $200 pickup only -1000cc VQ25DET injectors NEW Spuik $400 -HDi IC kit $300 pickup only

o2 sensor sold. Remaining: -Exhaust -AFR kit -SS intake.

NEW - XSpurt 1000cc Injectors + Adaptors HP1000M 55mm $550 + Postage or Pickup

OB-Link sold.

ITSROM sold.

Locations: Qld, Redlands, will post all except exhaust. Postage will be pre-paid satchels with tracking, so whatever they cost. HKS 3" exhaust with heat wrapped Dump. ***** Pickup only ****** NOTE: Has a tiny pin hole in the dump and a crack as pictured, all fixable. $700 HKS OB-Link for NM35 The only one that reads our car and can display on your Android stereo showing sensors and fault codes instantly. $220 Innovate 3918 Wideband AFR gauge kit + interior bits pictured if you want. Genuinely done less than 300km. $200 bargain! ][/url] ITSROM Stage 1 ECU Setup for: 3" Exhaust, FMIC, 14PSI, Intake. Screenshots showing ECU scan with no faults before removal. $370 Stainless steel intake, you will need some new silicone as pictured. $250 Factory genuine O2 sensor also genuinely done <300km as new. $40

$300 Slimline + Standard size plates Location: Redlands

Not exactly Stag specific but, you can get an idea of what they look like. 19x8 +36 $600, no tyres. In as new mint condition! Location: Mt Gravatt.

Cheers guys, will go after then. Might grab one of those Blue Tru Cools, and throw it in when the radiator ever dies.

I have a DC 678 cooler to go on, and have read just about every thread and post on other members setup before asking this question, but there are varying views on installing it before or after the factory rad cooler? -Should I go before or after? -Also, any tips on getting the factory aero front bar off?

Feels like it is driving ok, but the ticking is still there when revving and seems random below 2500rpm (guesstimate), sometimes its there, other times its not - then I can't hear it at higher RPM. No AFM cut out or stuttering, at idle its about 1.4-1.5v, cruising at 60-70ish its about 2.2v, giving it some stick its 4.4v and above. CEL is constantly on and I've been unable to do the pedal reset thingy. If the AFM is faulty would it mess with the VCT hence the ticking?

Car was running fine. Spotted a pin hole coolant leak (while in the driveway thankfully) on one of the small hoses spraying (SEE IMAGE) Replaced the hose, but I did unplug the AFM and intake to get better access, was very careful no to touch, wack, damage the thing. HKS OB Link now showing a P0100 & P0110 error. I was certain no coolant got onto to it. The symptoms: -The car is taking a second or two longer to start (idles fine) -Trying to roll out of the driveway and there is knocking! -It doesnt really want to move, but the knocking has me scared so haven't moved it more than 10m. -There is an odd smell, not overfuel. Can those last three points be attributed to the AFM? Or has coolant potentially got onto another sensor?

I'm struggling to find a replacement hose for this one that's barely clinging on to a clamping surface. Would appreciate some supplier suggestions? Anything online is just too short. Cheers

Thanks, undoing the sway bar has also been suggested by another Stag owner, will give it a shot. Cheers

Yes have jacked up both sides, got someone to stand on the arm but still wont extend enough to slide on?

I'm removing my coilovers to install the factory suspension in my Stag. Installing and removing the coilovers is a sinch. However when attempting to put the originals back in the front, there is to much load on the factory springs to install them and get the bottom eyelet slotted on. I have tried spring compressors but they just get in way or there is to little room to do anything. Any tips?

Unfortunately they stick out 30mm on the rear. I'm not willing to run that much camber or hack the arches that much

Had these on for only a couple of hours and had to take them off. The offset on the back was way to extreme without jacking it up like a 4wd. 18x9.5 +12, 255/35...

Hi, I have some new 18x9.5 wheels on my Stagea and have an issue with the rears sticking out to much. The centre of the wheels appears to have plenty of meat on the inside of them, so I am wondering if it would be possible to get the inside face machined down to increase the offset? They are currently +12, I think around +25 would be perfect, so machining off 13mm. These wheel also come in +30 and look exactly the same, so I can only assume that they make a cast and simply machine the face to the required offset? As long as a reasonable amount is taken off, is this safe? What sort of place could actually do this? Thanks for any help.

I have the basic BC's in my S1 Stagea with 8/6, they are way to bouncy and I regret the purchase.

Hi all, my Stagea has recently been converted to LPG over here in the UK, I intend to be back in Oz in 12 mths along with the car. Am I able to bring the car back if it is on duel-fuel, I suspect there must be rules on shipping cars with gas cylinders? Cheers

Hiya, a quick question. Whats the maximum amount of boost you would run if you still have the stock exhaust (decat) and intercooler on a WGNC34? Is there a level where the amount of boost will exceed what can flow through the stock exhaust? Thanks