ceedub

I'm in, as long as SAUVIC can sort out my membership details in time.

I have the FAST software installed - but how do I tell from the info it gives me? Which field identifies it as a v-spec? blue plate codes? not sure what you mean (the actual japanese plate is not there in my car only the compliance plate etc.)

Why so cheap? are they the fake ones from China? I got one of them as well - work well...so far

I had a similar problem - turned out to be that the 'big' red connector that clips to the positive terminal of the battery had corroded terminlas which caused the voltage to cut in and out. cleaned out the terminals - problem fixed.

the screen fits quite nicely - but mounting it so it doesnt fall/move around was a bit tricky. Ended up superglueing a moutning bracket underneathe the aircon controller to secure the screen. Will need to make some more improvements later - but for now I can live with it.

does FAST tell identify a vspec model from a standard gtr?

ECUTALK - Thanks to NewKleer

currently running on an old laptop under the seat - too slow though, looking for something better

got it while I was in China, straight from the Liliput factory. If there is enough interest I might be able to get some of these across.

I just installed a 'carputer' in my 'line check it out:

I had a similar problem where I had hot air continuosly leaking in. Turned out ot be the airmix actuator was not opening/closing. This actuator is located behind the headunit (on an R32). It controls the hot and cold air distribution depending on your temp setting. You can get to it by pulling out the headunit and you should see a black actuator with a white lever towards the back of the firewall. This lever should move as you adjust the temp from hot to cold etc. Mine worked intermitently and the problem was that the soldering of the terminals inside the actuator had broken. Just resoldered the pins - problem fixed. Actuator can be a b%^& to get out though. Good luck. c

check your power steering fluid in the engine bay and also the hicas 'bottle' in the boot (?) maybe they are just below the 'line' also check the connections to the battery for corrosion - I had an issue like that where one of the wires on the positive terminals was corroded and made an intermediate connection causing the hicas light to go on and off while driving.

The "phenomenon" only occurs above 80km/h as the Hicas kicks in above that speed only The rear bushes are the culprit for sure. I can't remember what they were called (rear castor bushes???) , I'd have to look through my records and I won't be able to do that until I get back from overseas end Aug. I remember though it was part of the Whiteline stage 1 upgrade or something like that. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

I had the exact same problem on my GTR. I never really understood what the problem was but believe it had to do something with the rear wheels being stuck at the 2 degree angle (whaterver the HICAS does in the back) to compensate the car naturally turns the front wheel as well to go straight, here is a crappy illustration: / / front wheels / / back wheels So in theory the car should be going straight down the hwy at an angle - I could never prove it, seems stupid actually. Anyway things I tried to do to fix it: wheel alignment, HICAS reset procedure, new tyres, all which worked to some effect but the problem always came back. don't replace the steering angle sensor, this does not fix the problem. I later replaced the rear and front bushes (whiteline) and never saw the problem again. The comment about the rear rack in my opinion is correct.

I am currently in Shanghai and was wondering if anyone here knows of any places where I can look at car audio gear, ie headunits, monitors etc? I can seem to find everything except that.

Has same problem check battery connections I found on mine that the connectors that go into the red plastic connector on the positive side were completely corroded, after cleaning , issue gone

stuffed O2 sensor? (there are 2 I think)

I am also in the process of buying tyres. Got a quote for K104's 255/40R17 for $215, also recomended was the V8 for 5 bucks extra Bundoora Tyre on Settlement road. However I have read mixed reviews on this tyre, so not sure if I should get it. Other tyres being considered Sumitomo's and Kuhmo 712

400 to 450km R32 GT-R "spirited" driving if you are doing 300km in an R32 GT-R one or both of your O2 sensors are stuffed.

I've had a simialr problem. In the back of the cavity where the headunit is, is a small actuator that controls a vent for hot/cold air mix. The wiring loom going into this actuator was loose or had a bad connection. By wiggling the wires it would reconnect and get the actuator working again. In your case I think the actuator may have died completely, leaving it in the hot position.

anyone know where I can buy a cheap 7" lcd screen (peferably with touch screen function as well) ? It needs to be able to plug into a laptop ie have a VGA connector...

I've been having similar problems where it either pumps out hot or cold air. I've pulled out the head unit and found that if I "jiggle" the wiring looms the air will go from hot to cold or vice versa. Looking further I found that there is an actuator right at the back with a wiring loom going into it. (it controls the amount of hot/cold air) This seems to be the problem as it seems to have a loose connection (when I jiggle it switches hot/cold air) Haven't had the chance to pull it out yet. Ley me know if this is the same prob you're having.

Try Dr Drift (AKA Sam) He has just set up in Unit 5/9 Alick Rd Brooklyn (near Altona) phone: 0425 818 755

Does anyone know how to hook up the plumbing on an R32 GTR to a mechanical boost gauge. Which hose do I cut to put a t-piece on? Pics would be nice

they only turn about 1 to 2 degress