ceedub

does MBS count as part of Melb UNi? Well I'm just across the road then.

where is this O2 sensor is there only one? or are there many?

Definatelly not the thermostat - that is working correctly - Warming up doesn't take long. BHDave seems to have the identical problem as me. I have checked spark plugs etc but the only thing left is the temp sensors if only I knew where to look.

When I start my car in the morning to go to work or when finishing work in the afternoon - the engine seems to be slugish. What I mean is that as I accelarate up to 80kmh or so the engine seems to be missing. I have noticed that this keeps happening until the thermostat kicks in and after that it is fine. Someone has told me it could be a faulty temp sensor. Anyone experienced this before? Where can I find this temp sensor? Please help ! CW R32- GTR

can the self steering be fixed by disconnecting the battery again with the steering wheel straight?

I fixed my 'HICAS twitch' by cleaning the battery terminals and re crimping the wires of the main harness leading to the battery. I found that a power fluctuation will cause the car to twitch sideways when the HICAS light comes on. Most of the cables leading to the battery had loose connectors. After tightening everything the 'twitch' went away. However the HICAS light still comes on. I'll try the wrap procedure next. Still would like to know how to do that sensor adjustment though.

Could anyone explain this adjustment procedure more clearly? Where are all these sensors and stuff??? How does one do the adjustment?

how much for the power FC?

the two units are linked together via an 'AInet' cable I think They are both interlinked, ie you can select CD, tuner or MD. The MD unit has a spectrum analyser which displays output of the CD, tuner or MD I'll post up some more shots with the unit lit up maybe

open

Anyone interested in a Alpine CD receiver and in dash MD changer (3MD's) see pics For Sale $900 (Melbourne)

what is the correct position for the hicas sensor on a standard wheel?

fluid is in the master cylinder the pedal doesn't sink to the floor it still springs back but there is hardly any effort required. clutch will not dissengage now.

My clutch has "crapped" itself!! Anyone know of a good workshop in Melbourne (pref north suburbs) problem: clutch is permanently engaged won't disengage when pedal is pushed down, pedal firmness has reduced dramatically