newdylan

I am trying to diagnose an ignition problem i am having with my motor. I rebuilt the the motor after cylinder 5 had 0psi compression from cracked rings. The motor has just developed a missfire again and after checking the plugs, no. 5 plug is completly fouled. I have splitfires which are approx 1 year old so I am gonna try replacing the coil wiring first. Unfortunately i need to fix this problem ASAP instead of ordering and waiting for a new one. I remember reading somewhere on the forums that you can buy a kit with the connectors needed to rewire the packs. Couldnt find anything by searching sorry...but any help would be appreciated. Thanks

Well i got a chance today to have a look at the turbo and i'll be stuffed if I can see the Housing Ratio anywhere on the exhaust side of the turbo. Its obviously on the car atm the moment, but I even tried using a small mechanics mirror to locate the info. Can anyone give me some hints on the normal location for this. Cheers.

Sorry man i thought i put that in. Its raining at the moment so I cant double check but from memory i think is a 1.02....which might explain it. I know it has a 0.60 A/R comp housing. I will chack as soon as i can.

Just wondering if this result seems a little laggy, or normal for a RB25DET with a 3076. Made 346rwhp on 16psi and Mods are as follows. ACL 20thou Forgies fully balanced Nismo 740cc inj. with a Bosch 040 STD Intake and Exhaust manifolds HKS Intercooler and Exhaust Microtech LT12 Ive got a profec b spec2 to go in yet. Sorry about the page formatting.....couldnt work it out

Does anyone know why cylinder #5 is such a common problem in these engines? I have read quite a few posts that have had a similar problem.

Yeah thats what I'm guessing too, but i was kinda hoping someone would say its just a valve or something. Im just not looking forward to pulling the motor out and doing a rebuild... I can get access to a hoist and everything and am thinking of maybe just changing the rings first to see if that maybe fixes the problem. Does anyone know if r33's can be done with the sump and a few other bits off.....or does it have to be done with the motor out. I know its best to get it honed and everything, but if i can get a few more k's out of this motor i would rather at least try this as a temp fix.

I am getting really low Compression in Cylinder 5 atm and am blowing heaps of Blue smoke from about 2000-3500rpm. The car lacks power and sounds similar to a WRX but is idling stable. Its been running a little rich due to the microtech tune (as they always do).....but i'm trying to figure out whether its the pistion/ring....or maybe a valve problem. Compresion test results are as follows.... Dry test Wet Test (5ml oil) 1.....124psi 1......145psi 2.....119psi 2......145psi 3.....125psi 3......151psi 4.....125psi 4......145psi 5.....28psi 5......38psi (49psi with 10ml of oil) 6.....125psi 6......145psi There is a heap of oil in the air intake and the catch can is filling up pretty quick cause I am also getting pretty high pressure... Like 25psi at idle but 90 to 100psi at 4000+ rpm and about 55-60psi at very light cruising. Any help you guys can give would be great... Thanks

Yeah I'm running one of these on my 33 and its not too shabby. Was already on ther when i bought it. Mods HKS cooler and Exhaust BOV Stock injectors :-( Microtech lt-12 Bosch 044 Tuned at 343rhwp at 17psi.... is a tiny but laggy but am hoping an electronic boost controller might help. Holds boost sweet on internal gate and has been run at 19psi fine. Just doesn't hit full boost till about 4000rpm.