kidafa

Speak to chef maybe about swapping for his leather and a cash adjustment... he wants to put GTR seats in the front which will mean he should run a cloth rear unless he wants it to look retarded IMO.

surprise surprise Tangles is keen for an open run

Momo wheel was an option for rs4's aswell not going to be cheap either way Pm mike he may still have a spare and he'll be able to answer ur wheel question too

Under caster bushes for me too :-)

If my foots not healed in time your driving mike

Sunday morning prior to 12 or after 4 :-)

May I ask who's doing the nisstune for you as I dont think its possible on a series 1 stagea. Nice stag btw ;-)

Ahhhh this is balls.... To many cars going missing these days, few stagea's last month now a 33 and a 32. This is a nice 32 as well think he lives around the corner from me, hope its found un molested or you get a descent pay out. Cheers, Chris

Welcome back to the forums mat! Hope your ready for some fishing this summer, I'm inquiring into buying a tinny tomorrow. Look out all garfish in the bay! Haha And to ben, the shaft isnt that hard to drop out, I somehow can get a socket on one end and ring spanner on the other... Intact I can often crack them by just using the socket end sure they spin a few times before they bite and un-do but it does happen eventually. They don't need to be ball breaker tight either. Got a spare shaft you can try here to ben if your joints are suspect not sure how good the joints of my spare are but you could use it to eliminate issues :-)

I think you'll find he's talking about the front drive shaft that's splined and comes out of the transfer case and bolts into the front diff via 4 bolts. Yes I have looked at it and thought the same... I do have a spare one kicking around some where if required

No aftermarket BOV fitted? What's ur idle rpm in neutral with handbrake on and no a/c and then with a/c Clean aac valve Clean afm Copper plugs at .8mm Block intake pipe and pressurize intake system with bike pump and check for leaks Check timing Reset ecu Report back.

Chasing a warranty from an import yard.... Good luck! Make sure you read the warranty terms very well! Think you'll find next to nothing is covered less its serviced by them every 5 minutes at some bull shit rate.

Stu, the diff oil I suggested is fine. Mines been in over 40,000k with no issues. It's even recommended by sydneykid, so don't be scared of this "mechanics" helpful advice.

Cheers mate :-) As for G-box oil I would say it depends on the condition of your gear box. If its 100% healthy no abnormal sounds or anything I'd run a fully synthetic from say Penrite or something like that. But if its got a crunch/developing one perhaps try the Red Line shock-proof in the lightweight viscosity, to help the syncros have a better chance of spinning the gears up to speed.

The auto box is stock form is nothing special. I'd highly suggest getting a stage 1 or 2 shift kit installed and a good service to get it somewhat enjoyable to drive. The tiptronic is nothing super special either. They do age well with the only downside being the rust that you have mentioned. Cant comment on VR4 legnums sorry. Do test drive from a dealer but buy one private and save some $$$ :-)

Hi Stu, Deff worth doing it your self to avoid some ham-fisted incompetent mechanic doing a sub par job on your car. Your right it happens to much and if they do do a descent mechanical job, theyv'e probably left you with a few signs that they have been there in regards to your body work ect... Drain and filler plugs for the diffs- Drains are on the bottom and stand out like dogs balls, as for the filler im pretty sure they are on the drivers sid about half way up each diff. Transfer case - one is on the side and the other is on the back part of it as you look at it from the rear of the car. If i were you stu i'd drain the oil out of the trasfer case, then remove the pressure line coming from the pump that goes onto the back of the box, this will drain the boot compartment cansiter and give you the chance to change/flush all the fluid in the system. Once its drained connect up the line and remeber to fill the attessa reservoir in the boot. Also you will have to bleed the attessa system if you do this method. With the cars ass in the air, start car, crack nipple on trasfer case untill no bubbles just straight fluid comes out, then lock it off, move to back diff and somehow get your spanner on the nipple above the rear diff and do the same. Drop car down and check level in rear canister while the car is running. Quantities wise I think the diffs took about 1.5L in each and transfer roughly 2.5L. You just fill it up till a bit spills out the filler plug and its sweet. Diff Oil- Castrol SAF-XA 75W140 Transfer case- Castrol Transmax Z Crack the filler bolts before the drain bolts to ensure you can fill them back up again :-) Good advice dude, dont share any of your knowledge or anything... Not necessary for a oil change, no covers need to be removed and no gaskets need to be changed. If you want to ruin the transfer case and then pay a hefty bill for attessa repairs yes you could, if you look at a GTR box you can see the shifter assembly is above the transfer case section of the box, pour oil into here and its going into the transfer case not the gear box....

Hi Craig, Been meaning to get in touch, a good mate of mine works for the old owner of your new 34GTR. Infact he claims he drove it the most in the past two years to keep it ticking over, sat in a shed its entire life and never copped a beating for a minute. Good buy by the sounds of it mate, would love to see it some time. Cheers, Chris

Sorry but I dont quiet understand how this will fully dis-engage the Four wheel drive system as there is a front drive shaft that comes out of the transfer case and into the front diff, thats always spinning. All I can see this doing is releasing some of the pressure from the front clutch packs and allowing it to slip a shit load, putting it into a a bit of a false form of 2wd and promoting premature clutch pack wear if you ask me.... I say do yourself a favor and remove the four bolts that hold the shaft into the front diff and remove the shaft. (6 bolts if your manual as you'll need to remove the clutch slave to get the shaft out and around your clutch line) Party hats for preventing future expensive attessa repairs!

Hi BEN, Welcome back! What rock have you been hiding under? First thing I would be doing is ECU reset, followed by a bleed of the attessa system (remember there is two nipples one on the rear or the gear box just above the hi-pressure line and one just above the rear diff). Then checking wheels.

So im guessing you gave it a little dip and thats why you put it up for sale 3 or 4 days ago? Old man did one a few years back.... cleaned it best we could and traded it.

Was given it by a mate :-)

Sure does mate. Will suit your car better than mine to as its autech!

Was given a genuine blank Nissan GTR key as given to all Aus. delivered 32GTR owners on purchase :-) Not sure if I want to run it or not.

It's funny you say that but ur not in my state so it's not you but... Got a text from a close girlfriend of mine saying A white stagea has been driving scaringly fast around her area lately. Fair few morons buying these now thought that's what skylines and s13's were for?

Do you have the GCG for sale? price on Z32 alone?