Myself and Chef ran them both to the left of your left leg.
Out of harms way, no it view of breathalysing police and you can easily glance down for a second and see it through the wheel.
this guy accepts gobbies from guys too as payment....
Not saying I know this from experience, he was trying to bargin with "favors" back in the day when buying from me
Hi Dude,
For the Attessa reservior in the boot, power steering AND transfer case on the box - use a high quality dexron III auto trans fluid, castrol trans max z is what all of us are using when $$$ isnt a problem
As for the gear box depends on its condition to help syncro life I'd recommend Leightweight shock proof...
I have an S1 full fruit, leather, manual, dual sunroof, tein's, whiteline, big brakes, tv, satnav, reverse cam, square hitch towbar, fmic, 34gtr wheels, I would consider parting with for the correct cash....
Got a new headgasket put in by simons-14 :-)
when he pulled the head the old gasket didnt have any visible leaks or anything, block tested fine.
New waterpump, flushed radiator and fresh head gasket and well see how it goes.
Exhaust manifold was cracked to shit though!
I DOUBT its an electrical fault.
The lockout for park on these cars runs off a PHYSICAL locking cable that runs from the shifter to the underside of the ignition barrel.
The cable up and to the left of the shifter in this car is the Lockout cable.... see how its been removed for manual conversion. Pull your centre console out and have a look to see if its still in place and then look under your barell to make sure its not causing issues for you.
http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach§ion=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=298844
Click on the trading post link :-)
Thanks, yeah it is very clean and with the FA's and rejetting on the fresh engine build it goes like a shower of shit too!!
Mid life..... Hope you didnt take my response as a personal stab or anything. Thanks for the idea but not real keen on doing that as ive got plenty of funds to fix this just working out the best economical way to do it properly....
So what parts will I need? Just a full VRS gasket kit?
Who has used a metal gasket with only machining the head and not the block?
I doubt that this will reveal much as theirs no sign of oil if I look under the oil cap but when Im feeling a little better then yes I will remove the covers and have a look see.