kidafa

First Graph: Splitfire Coil Packs FMIC 11psi SAFC II 2.5" Gutted Cat Second Graph: Same as above plus 3" Front Dump pipe SITC 3, 1/4" Cat back Reinforced intake pipe Boxed pod with CAI Third Graph: Same as above plus 3" Highflow cat MV Auto's stage 2 shift kit Think thats it? The last graph it was pining a touch at the very top so we could have squeezed a few exrtra ponies out but didnt want to push it. Got a feeling it could have been having a dose of injector clean in the tank killing of some RON. Next trip; tune to 12psi with adjustment of SAFCII and SITC. Hoping for 210ish

Changing plugs every 10,000? I can think of alot more enjoyable things to do with my time ;-) Notice any improvement once you cleaned the ic vale? Why did you clean it? the bit you said about the code and -11 doesnt make sense mate Airfilter will be getting a wash yes

To what extent did you pull it apart? Surely if you were to pull the window and arms it would stand out like dogs nuts... Im clearly living with it atm but would be nice to get a fix sorted for everyone

Ive done the diffs and transfer cases 40k ago and when I did them they were clean so no need to worry about them Ohh and its been shift kitted and trans serviced less than 5,000 ago :-) Considering an attesa oil change

Just about every stag I've had something to do with's windows clunk around at some point. Weather its shutting doors with them down or if the door is shut and their halfway down you can rattle them around abit. Dono about others but it shits me to tears. Has anyone got a fix for this or know what needs re-adjusting? I've pulled door skins but nothing has jumped out at me at to what it could be.

Yes, Im thinking its going to be the solenoid vibrating against the chassis. Mine's doing it atm only in high boost. Might get to it tomorrow

Hi All, My cars up for oil and filter in 400k's so tomorrow ive decided ill spend a bit of time with it and the tools.... Going to do a few bits and pieces and my mine query was who runs standard plugs and who runs gold series or platinum's? I've currently got gold series that were put in 50,000 ago. Going to pull one of them out in a bit to have a look and see how they are coping. I must admit I do like not having to change plugs every service! What Im planning to do: Oil Oil filter Fuel filter (havnt done it in 40k) Brake fluid Front pads, Maybe rears Rotor clean Clean FMIC core Spark plugs? Wheel rotation Underbody check Grease door hinges and sun roofs Fluid level/color check Data scan and reset self learn So anyone got an other recommendations? 02 sensor was done 40,000 ago. Sorry if its a useless boring thread, im hoping it will keep me entertained at work today

And today on the way to work.... Another f**king stone chip. Got it booked into for a repair/glue tomorrow morning before it gets up to 38 in the arvo to reduce the chance of loosing 2 in less than a year!

Well I was waiting to see if anyone spotted it but dont think anyone did... As some would know I work in the push bike industry and with all the hype in the sport this time of year we have a VIP night at our store on The Parade @ Norwood.... It's a pretty big thing with red carpet and all that jazz\, to become a VIP you need to have spent big. Last year we had Adelaide Motors with some BMW's setup out the front for all the "VIP's" to drool over. Well this year it was Nissan's turn. 2 GTR's and a 370Z. One of the GTR salesmen from main north and 2 GTR owners. Due to being "working" I had minimal time to check them out but had a quick chat to the owner of the Silver GTR thats HEAVILY worked and has put over $200,000 into it (not including the purchase!)

Mate this increase in fuel economy is awesome! What do you think did it? Clearly it wasnt in need for oil and plugs that badly to pick up almost 100ks to a tank?

You cant talk mr stock RSfour driver... I've seen him a bit lately espesh sunday arvos driving down kensy road I wave and flash lights but hes as blind as a bat!

Chuck the cheese cutter on the front while rears getting fixed.

not interested in a set of racingharts by anychance?

Its funny the SAME workshop also scratched his 1 day old freshly painted front bar and dented his two week old custom plates.... At the same time of this incident. And in reply to your post madaz, No he didnt tell them to leave the water pump. its even on the invoice to install a new one.

Had an awesome day thanks Rodders and Aleks. Peaking I had to go to work and we got slammed at work :-( Im VERY impressed with turbo tune, have found a new tuner me thinks read out in rwkw, very happy with my result. Shit kit has made large improvement

Ok for those wondering the shift kit and cat seemed to up the rwkw by 25. This is also with a tiny bit less boost. very pleased awesome day on the dyno thanks rodders!

where the rust appears over time in EVERY C34v stagea due to shit design theirs so sponges under each wing mirror.... Some one could post up what they have done to rectify this issue that would be great!

"NEED" I think is the wrong word.. I guess you could but Ive had it out before and spoken to tuners and its not necessary. Ohhh and also a mechanic that had his shaft out on his OWN stagea for about 6months with no fuse removal and NO issues

Hi all! The forum has been lacking a DIY for putting your 4WD stag into RWD mode. Firstly theirs a number of reasons you might want to: 2wd dyno runs Saving coin on the tuner pulling it out Making yourself feel better due to less power loss from awd system Skids Burning up tyres before installing new ones Any other stupid reasons you can think off...... The reason I'm pulling it is we've got a dyno day tomorrow and only mods since last power run on a 2wd dyno was shift kit and a 3' highflow cat (used to have gutted 2.5')... So im really trying to work out if the kits done anything power wise (yes I will report after the day) It takes roughly 45 minutes, perhaps allow an hour for first timers Tools required: 4 Jack Stands 13mm Ring Spanner Trolley Jack 12mm socket on ratchet and whatever adaptors you need for your setup King G Overals (for keeping clean while rolling around on dirty garage floor) Method: 1. Start by jacking up your car get it so all 4 wheels are off the ground by 3 or so inches 2. ENSURE you give the car a good shaking once its up on stands to ensure its nice and stable cos your going to be working under it! 3. Get under and locate your front drive shaft It comes out of the transfer case and has four bolts that go into the front diff 4. Go inside car and release park brake and put it in N 5. Jump back underneath and watch the shaft and spin one of the front wheels to spin the shaft to where its nice and easy to get at each bolt, you need to move the shaft for each bolt. I do them in this position 6. Take your socket and 12mm and put it on the bolt head (side of bolt towards rear of car) THE BOLTS AND NUTS ARE NOT REALLY HARD AND ROUND EASILY SO BE CAREFUL! 7. Try and give it a few spins to get it all moving you may be lucky and it may crack and you dont even need to use the 13mm to hold the nut still to undo them 8. Once you have all four bolts out pull the front of the shaft down and then pull and jiggle it forward. The rear is just a spline set-up thats all sealed so it will come out with a bit of pulling. 9. Drop the car, do a lap around the block with a bit of a heavy foot where you shouldn't (aka out of a corner) and you will soon be able to tell its in RWD. No fuses need to be pulled. You will not get any fault lights or anything. This is the only SAFE way to run in RWD to avoid frying clutch packs ect... Installation is simply the reverse. Dont need to do the shaft nuts up super super tight. Again THE BOLTS AND NUTS ARE NOT REALLY HARD AND ROUND EASILY SO BE CAREFUL! Hope this helps someone. Cheers, Chris

Hi all! The forum has been lacking a DIY for putting your 4WD stag into RWD mode. Firstly theirs a number of reasons you might want to: 2wd dyno runs Saving coin on the tuner pulling making yourself feel better due to less power loss from awd system Skids Burning up tyres before installing new ones any other stupid reasons you can think off...... The reason I'm pulling it is we've got a dyno day tomorrow and only mods since last power run on a 2wd dyno was shift kit and a 3' highflow cat (used to have gutted 2.5')... So im really trying to work out if the kits done anything power wise (yes I will report after the day) It takes roughly 45 minutes, perhaps allow an hour for first timers Tools required: 4 Jack Stands 13mm Ring Spanner Trolley Jack 12mm socket on ratchet and whatever adaptors you need for your setup King G Overals IMAGE OF TOOLS<<<< Method: 1. Start by jacking up your car get it so all 4 wheels are off the ground by 3 or so inches Car jacked up image<<<< 2. ENSURE you give the car a good shaking once its up on stands to ensure its nice and stable cos your going to be working under it! 3. Get under and locate your front drive shaft It comes out of the transfer case and has four bolts that go into the front diff 4. 4. Take your socket and 12mm and put it on the bolt head (side of bolt towards rear of car) 5. Try and give it a few spins to get it all moving you may be lucky and it may crack and you dont even need to use the 13mm to hold the nut still to undo them

Dont think you deserve a reply without having a heat shield and cold air feed on that pod mate especially in summer!

Im going to pull the shaft to get a rwkw reading as I would like to know if the shift kit did anything and going from 2.5" gutted to 3inch hi flow fury beast in the zhorst... Think it was 178 last time? will dig dyno graphs out tonight and have a look see See you all sunday

whats he rolling on 6's?

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