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Everything posted by MR FLWLSS
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Car Died, Turns Over Really Quick Now
MR FLWLSS replied to GTAAAH's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
that explains alot... DETONATION + HIGH RPM = VERY BAD. sorry to here about that mate. Was the boost controler properly tuned on a dyno and was the timing set up properly for the higher boost? -
these are all options. but i have to sell my skyline first. its for sale if anyones interested.just had a huge huge price drop. anyway back on topic it would be nice but i want a turbo duel fuel motor and setting up the rb30/25 setup is alot of work just for a good daily that i ca tow the go kart trailer with and take on holidays. with the smaller capacity rb25 turbo motor on lpg economy should be pretty good with respectable power.
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im going for a short wheel base 2 door patrol due to the weight factor. the 2 doors are pretymuch kg for kq with an r33 as far as total mass goes however the patrol has a greater rotational drive line weight so the load would be greater. but at 60cents a litre of lpg and concidering with multipoint gas injection you get pretty close to 1L of LPG to 1L of petrol if set up right the cost saving is huge. I went to ELKO auto gas supplies and spoke to the guys down there and they gave me a demmo of the multi point injection system and they are pretty awsome
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i look forward to seeing the results as i plan to undertake the same project but on a RB25DET in a GQ Patrol LOL. oh by the way how did you go about purchasing this kit? if you could pm me id greatly apreciate it. run the car on deticated lpg and just have a realy small fuel tank with pump and pressure reg just for a nitrous system. (just an idea) i wonder how some gas on gas action would go
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the most common is the 4.9:1 ratio(i think its that) in the 4.2l and 3.0l patrols. which provides plenty of torque at the wheels. there was a long wheel base one in a zoom mag a while ago and it had a RB26DETT in it and it drifted down the street with ease and smoked 3rd. the Gq patrols all shared the same transfer case and diffs and the only difference was one had a 4.2 carby or injected motor and the other had the RB30carby job and there were 2 different gearboxes to suit the different engines. all you do is unbolt the 4.2l gear box from the transfer and swap for the rb30 one. everything else is bolt in. and the rb30 boxes are built like a brick shithouse. that guy in zoom only broke his gear box after he got close to 400rwkw or somthing like that, they are mechanicaly the same as a R33 box inside except for the output shaft and rear bearing setup for the out put shaft and rear housing. they have the same model number as well except one is the 2wd model and the other is the 4x4 model.
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Hi guys im in the middle of the planning stages of my next project and im in a heated argument with myself on a fueling system. I know a lot of people are going to laugh at me and call me a tool or what ever, but im putting a RB25DET into a SWB GQ Patrol. I have had plenty of street cars but you cant have any real fun on the streets and there not the best cars off road either. So my plan came about when i thought performance you can take anywhere( and when i said anywhere i ment Anywhere-city, bush, beach, etc) any way back on the topic of fuels. Now i can go with the standard setup- fuel tank, fuel pump, pressure reg, injectors, ecu, etc. -OR- i can go for the first(at least i think it would be the first) Sequntial Multi-point LPG Injection setup ever done on a RB25DET. i can also have both. With Fuel Prices the way they are going and the fact that it costs about 180cents($1.80) on average for a litre of 98 octaine fuel. and the fact that LPG is only 60cents ($0.60) on average for a litre of liquid petrolium/propane gas (LPG) and the fact that if you install LPG you get a Rebate of $2000 from the government. The LPG or even a Dual Fuel System Seems to be a good investment. There is also the fact that a LPG engine is cleaner,not just for the enviroment but for the engine itself. Also it creates less wear to the bores from what ive seen as LPG doesnt wash oil from the inside of the bore like petrolium does and it also doesnt contaminate the oil like petrol does. It funnily enough has a much higher octain rating than 98 octain fuel. Previously convetional gas systems made the engine run hotter because the liquid was already vapourised before it went through the throttle body, into the manifold and into the cylinder, but with liquid gas injection the liquid is fed directly into port before the valve and then drawn into the cylinder witch as most people know liquid gases have a great cooling efect and greater cooling effect than petol witch keep engine temps down. there is also the fact that gas vaporises and mixes with air alot beter than fuel due to fuel is always majority a liquid until ignition where as with lpg the gas would mix much beter resulting in a more stable and even burn. witch by a performance fuel side of things makes LPG seem to be the way to go for a performance aplication. Due to the higher octain rating this would allow for more boost and ignition timing. Therefore creating more power. I must say ive never looked at Sausage Gas as a performance fuel before, but the more i look the more reasons to concider it. But any way enough of me rambling on... What do the rest of you think? I look forward to seeing some peoples input/ideas and if anyone wants to help with the design or pass on any ideas for the project let me know. Kind Regards Mr Flwlss
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i wont deney the car has been driven hard but only on a dyno or on a circut. on the street i give it a little here and there but i dont go doing burnouts and dougnuts and shit like that because i need my drivers licence for work and i cqant afford to loose it and i also have alot of respect for my vehicle. i have been playing with imports since i was 16 but i have been playing with the nissan brand since i was 6 as 95 percent of the cars my family have had are nissans so i know the nissan brand pretty well. anyway im willing to put the stock rims on the car and drop the price to $10,500 if any one is interested as i have had some pms about how much without the 19's.
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i am going to use the turbo myself and the turbo is no longer for sale due to people like nabsax who are f**kin idiots who hide behind there key board and think there all that. nabsax your an idiot and just to prove a point i have dismantled the front of the turbo just so i can show you something you f**king moron look whats stamed in the compressor housing. most of turbo failure are caused by DIY Morons such as yourself with no clue about what they are doing that run the wrong size oil restrictor, have the turbo drain in a f**k wit of a position that compromises oil flow and yes i have seen one case where a diy f**kwit put the water and oil lines the wrong way around and others that have not put the water lines on at all and have cracked the bearing housing. its these idiots who do stupid things with items such as this turbo that give it a bad name the most common cause of these turbos to fail is the fact that people fit them with the factory oil line that has a restrictor in the banjo fitting either in the block side or at the turbo end of the oil feed line and some times it in the banjo bolts or the block itself. a spannner is a bad tool in the hands of the wrong person. then its up to people like myself to fix the problems they cause. oh i have also included a picture of something you dont have. im a qualified and registerd motor vehicle mechanic and i also have a licence to repair motor vehicles you are a key board mechanic.(i.e. your a f**king moron with no f**king idea of what your talking about who hides behind a key board! at least you can take pride nabsax in the fact that you know how to read a brochure) END OF DISCUSDSION MORON!!!!!!!
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Also allow me to post these pictures straight from the garret website. the part that makes the turbo im selling unlike a garret is the turbine housing however these units are sold by garret to other companys like JJR and that asemble them with there own rear housing and in some cases just the centers are sold and companys put there own front and rear housings like HKS. and yes some are factory seconds sold cheaper due to the componants pacaging being dammaged in transit. these factory seconds are assebled by other companys and then sold at a cheaper price under the companys own name like Monsta Performance(i.e. the so called plastic turbos) . A pefect example of re-badging a product is the Toyota Lexen and the Holden Commodore, Same Damn Car different Badge, Same product but with a different badge. Any how These pictures are examples straight from honeywell and can be found at www.turbobygarret.com and there are also some jjr example that can be found at just jap at the end of the your all arguing over a bage. but hay whatever helps you sleep at night.
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here here. i have to say it i cant belive the ignorance of some f**kin close minded f**kwits. Seriously nabsax do you have a brain. no thats right by the sounds of it, it went out the door with your wallet. let me fill you in nabsax on a little secret........ The Garret turbo company is owned by Honeywell industries and the main processing plants for the parts and its assembly line is in china due to it cost less in manufacturing costs. these parts are not just exclusive to the garret turbo co, they are also supplyed to other manufactuers around the world in different feilds of the automotive industry ranging from light vehicle to earth moving equiptment, plant macinery and marine, secondly any hp rating on a turbo is rated on the amount of air it can flow relevent to horse power. results vary due to the build and tune of the motor. your another idiot who hides behind a keyboard who thinks he is gods gift to cars and automotive technical knowledge.....NEWS FLASH YOUR NOT!!!! You should find something better to do then make yourself look like an idiot. oh and FYI if it doesnt sell it will be going on the RB25DET that im building up to go into my GQ patrol. i just put it up for sale because its going to be a while before the rb goes into the patrol. i have no reservations about using it, i have used one before on my sr20det that i had before and it was running 16psi and producing close to 189kw on a standard motor all the motor had was a fuel presure reg a large fuel pump a full exhaust system and a front mount intercooler and a damn good tune. if i had of done more like cams and stuff that sr would have had a bundle more power.
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Allow me to make a retraction of the previous post. The car does not come with the boost controler or turbo timer or fuel pressure reg that was fitted, these items have been removed from the vehicle. I trusted someone to make a post for me as i was unable to do it at the time and they have stuffed it up. i further more appologise for the inconvenience and as a show of good faith ill drop the price to $12,000 firm. this is the rock bottom price and last price drop as this is as low as i can possibly go. Once again im sorry for any inconvenience this has caused. Kind Regards MR FLWLSS
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i have used them before ive never seen one shit itself after 100km. the easy way to tell if a turbo is going to be good turbo is if you look at the turbine wheel and look at how they have ground the bolt to balance it. a poor qualit one would have a large amount ground out to balance it due to the inconsistancys in the density of the metal and its poor quality. a good quality turbo that is manufactured well shouldnt have to have much ground off to balance it because its pretty well balanced. this princible is pretty much a rule of thum for picking any new turbo because if they grind alot off it weakens the turbine and can cause it to fail. this principle is the same with any turbo. i have seen brand name turbos fail in 5 mins due to from the facrory they were a poor build due to inferiour componants and they had a crap load cut out of the turbine bolt to balance them in witch case was its demise. this might not be relevent to my turbo but it is some usefull knowledge.
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its mind boggling that people are so daft. its a bush bearing turbo and i was talking in relation to a garret bush bearing turbo that would set u back about $800 roughly. and ill be honnest not that hks dont make a good product but if you payed $3000 just for a turbo on its own they seen you coming :laughing-smiley-014: . People can critisize as much as they want but at the end of the day you have to look at it this way a $3000 turbo on a standard car big deal------or------$300 dollar on a turbo and $2700 on other parts like a power fc, boost controler, injectors, and a fuel pressure reg, get a bucket load more power and peel the tread off your tyres.at the end of the day you would have a faster car --- or --- you pay $3000 dollars and have a big $3000 dollar lump of metal with hks stamped on it just for a bit of toss factor! just so you can say i have a HKS turbo ...all show and no go lmfao... personally id prefer the power (because im not a idiot). now im going to say this nicely if you are going to say something stupid and idiodic than a post like this will follow showing how little you know. if you want to talk about a car mechanically by all means do so if your damn sure you know what your talking about, if you dont then dont say anything because it just makes you look like an idiot.
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thanks mate. well there you have it..... testimonial from someone ive never met...cheers mate thanks for the post just goes to show what a good product this is, they are reliable and work great, are manufactured in the same factory as garret turbos but are half the price. so come on be quick $300 and its yours
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i have seen these turbos used on other cars and they work quite well i have used them before. the fact that u criticise and call it a paper weight is quite funny. if its no goood why would you even offer money? the answer is your a low baller. i have had direct experience with these turbos. which i know for a fact do work quite well. . witch brings into question a certain group of low ballers technical ability to work on a motor vehicle.... Im a mechanic by trade and i have worked with import cars since i was 16. the most i see some people here have is the technical ability of a key board mechanic, ie:some one who thinks they know/a wanna be/the guy who herd that form a guy who herd from another guy who said/follower. now as posted in the top of the topic i dont care if you dont like it i dont care if you wanna low ball. i dont have time for it. go talk to someone who gives a rats arse. and allow the sale to continue with out a bunch of low ballers tyring to gang up on someone who quite frankly doesnt care about what a group of under qualified morons has to say....... Now the price is $300 firm. im not negotiating any more due to a bunch of lowballers. if you want it take it if you dont want it, dont take it. its that simple. Kind Regards MR FLWLSS
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Audio Gear Ii - Brand New Alpine Splits. Pics Included
MR FLWLSS replied to MR FLWLSS's topic in For Sale (Other Items)
still up for grabs. $200 for the lot.