Finny

Stock coil packs, Also have a receipt from the previous owner where it has just had new plugs put in it at a work shop. Not sure what they are and haven't pulled one out to look but I assume they would just be stock gap. Not sure how spark plug gap or brand can make it ping. It doesn't miss at all so I assumed it wouldn't be a spark related issue.

Hi guys, I recently brought an R32 as a daily, it's stock, runs stock boost etc. It pings it absolute face off above about 4500rpm. I wound the timing back as far as it can go (yes I know it's clockwise on the CAS) and it was better but I can still hear a few pings and that is will like 20RWKW down low because the timing is so retarded. This is with 98 octane fuel (BP Ultimate) I have tried different fuels with the same result. It doesn't ping coming on to boost which is kinda wierd, only at about 4000rpm+ once it starts to do something. Stock turbo is fully spooled way before then. Any idea's guys? The boost is around 5psi at the intake manifold, also confirmed with another gauge. I have an RB30DET in an R33 as a daily driver and I remember when that had the stock RB25DET in it, I use to run 12psi on 18 degrease of timing and it never pinged on 98 octane fuel.

Hi all, I recently got my car back from the work shop after it was there for over a year.... any way the car was running before I took it in and they were not doing any wiring work on the car at all. So I took a photo just after I got the car back and then decided to fix up the horrible wiring mess. So I mounted the igniter properly, taped up all the wiring, heat shielded the coil packs and got it looking all good. Then went to start it and nothing.... no spark from any of the coil packs. Now the coil setup was kinda assembled before I brought it. It came as igniter to coil packs so all I had to do was wire up a new plug to replace the old RB25DET igniter plug so that I could plug it in. Previously it worked fine, I had really good spark, MUCH MUCH better than the stock coils. So I have no idea why it all of a sudden stopped working although I did put in some new earth wires to make it look tidy. I have no idea what the igniter is, I thought it was an R32 igniter but it has different plugs to an R32 igniter but apart from that it looks the same and has the same pinout. Thats how I have it wired up, the red wires are the signal wires coming from the ECU. There is no 12v wire any where there, just signal and earth. I remember the stock RB25DET igniter has got a 12v wire in to the igniter but I don't think this one does... I have no idea how an igniter can run passively but I am no auto electrician. Any ideas guys? Also I am running a Microtech LT12s

very nice 4 door, I have an R33 4 door and have already got a similar engine build but mine is manual and Garret GT35/40R 1.06 rear. I built it for drag/track and I wanted it fairly street able. The build is all done I am just need to get it over to the mainland for dyno tuning, I live in Tasmania I am hoping for around 400RWKW, not sure what that will equate to at the drag strip. I wonder what the current fastest 1/4 pass is from an R33 4 door in Australia.

I am trailering my car from Hobart to Launceston to get Brad Sheriff to tune it but its running a Microtech, I have seen some really good figures he has pulled out of cars running microtechs and other ECUs, not sure about PowerFCs tho. Might be worth asking him. Any one here know if he does PowerFCs?

Do want the gearbox boot and platic bit around it. How much? need it posted to Tas, 7018. Price me up.

I dont want oil/water lines and intake pipe. I will offer you $2000 for the rest. EDIT: That manifold looks stainless, is it? if its a chineese stainless its worth like $50 as they warp really bad. I have one that is that badly warped if you put it on a flat surface each end of the manifold is lifted like 1cm. it was on the car for about 30min of driving.

After a big turbo for my RB30DET in my R33. I am after 400RWKW. T3 or T4 flange, I am getting a custom exhaust manifold made. Ball Bearing prefered, but I will consider a sleeve bearing for a cheap price.

Any pics?

Hi guys I have 5 cars :S I need to get rid of a few of them. If they sell quick I will let them go for $2000 each no less. If it takes too long I will have to put more rego on them and I will end up putting them in the paper for more $'s. 1987 Nissan Skyline Silhouette R31 Registration CK 9451 to 8 March 2009 Standard plus immobiliser and Sound system Serviced regularity and well maintained Rebuilt LSD, 4.11 diff gears Series 3 front bumper Mechanical History 2008.05.23 New Battery 2007.10.15 New Front and Rear Brake Rotors and Pads 2007.03.29 New Injector and Injector Service 2007.03.02 New Crank Angle Sensor and harness 2006.09.20 New Clutch Master and Slave cylinders 2006.03.08 New Air Flow Meter & Service 2004.02.20 New Left and Right Lower Control Arms 2003.06.04 New Fuel Pump Known issues: It's done 320,000km but it has full log books and has been serviced regularly, I have had this car for 2 months, previous owner had it for 8 years and took very good care of it (He was my old boss). Previous owner snapped the petrol door wire thingy... so that needs to be replaced or fixed... You can pull the cable easily via the boot. Petrol guage comes and goes, I assume it just needs the wiring looked at in the fuel tank. Appart from that this car is perfect, I never have any problems with it and its a strong engine, LSD throws it sideways quite easilly. Also the stock exhaust was pretty shagged so I removed it from the first muffler and welded in a stainless center ofset from an LS1 and then made up a tempory exhaust out of some 2.25" pipe. It sounds aweosme for a free exhaust but I have it running under the diff due to ease. If you really cared that much you could replace the tail pipe at an exhaust shop, can't see it costing much more than $100. Also it doesn't hit on any thing ect. Mazda MX6 1991 Auto 208,000km BRAND NEW IHI VJ35 Turbo (Stock is VJ11) Rego till late March Known issues: It has a bit of a lifter knock, This is probably because I havn't started the car in about 5 months. Prolly just needs an oil change but I cbfed. It didn't have a knock in it when I used this as my daily, seemed to develop it after it was sitting on my lawn for so long. there is a bit of an exhaust leak, I am working on it atm so I should have it fixed before any 1 looks at it.

would you be prepared to split this? if so how much for the exhaust manifold, turbo, dump pipe and lines?

Item: Mazda MX6 Turbo 2.2L Location: Hobart, Tasmania Reason for Selling: I have 4 cars... and not enough room Price and Payment Conditions: $3000 Hi guys, I am after a painless sale of my Mazda MX6 Turbo. It's been a REALLY good daily driver for me but I have too many cars and really need to get rid of it. It's standard but I have fitted a IHI VJ35 turbo, boost controller. Its a 2.2L Turbo 1991 FWD Auto Yeah I know... It's an Auto. But I brought it as a daily and It would get me in too much trouble with the po-po if it was manual. I have brang the boost up to 12psi and I would estimate that it has about 100-120FWKW. I can dyno it if you really want to but just take it for a drive it gives a good kick in the back side for a daily driver. Any way, it has a key mark on the pasenger door from before I brought it and a few other tiny things, I was planning on cleaning the car up and removing the scratch but I just dont have the time or the space. The interior is quite good. Its got a 6CD stacker in the boot and I think an alpine head unit. It has a brand new decent battery I will take more photos when I get home. I am not sure on Rego, I will have to check I think its got around 6 months.

Moderators, Please delete this thread.

I got a hold of his phone number. I don't have it on me but I do remember his e-mail address he told me. [email protected] He should respond fairly quick. Cost me $1200 + GST + postage. He can also rebuild your current clutch depending on what it is so this would save you some $s. roughly $300 cheaper if you send your clutch off for him to rebuild. He does all kinds of clutches so you really need to call him before he can tell you a price. Also I was giving a power figure so you guys knew what clutch would best suit my car. I investigated Jim Berry clutches but found it hard to get a hold of him then after talking to some performance shops they all said triple plates were the way to go. I quoted 300RWKW to the shops. But obviously you want to over quote your power rating when buying a clutch so you don't get something that is on its limits. I basically said the best possible situation as I don't want a clutch that is going to slip on me. I know that the KKR560 is not big enough for my setup but I have talked to the guys at otomoto and they said 330RWKW would be the most you would get from a KKR560 and I don't see why my engine can't push it to it's limits. I am going to a KKR720X I am just waiting on the first of these turbos to be released from otomoto. I wanted response from this car more than a power figure and with this KKR560 I have 0.5bar of boost at 2500rpm and full boost at around 3100rpm. (I have a video to prove this) Also Coil packs getting hot... WTF!!! I took my car for a thrashing pulled over, exhaust was very hot but I could put my hands on the coil packs and they where cold. They sit right up against the back of the bonnet. If I do have any heat issues I will relocate them to the intake site, big deal. They are still a much better option than stock coils. I no longer have that chinese exhaust manifold on there and I know they are crap. The intake manifold though is far from crap, it was engineered in Japan not china, It's very nice and smooth inside and has a 100mm throttle body... what else could you ask for. I have a forged RB30DET ffs.... 300+RWKW is nothing for any forged RB30DET. I will get it on dyno as soon as I get this clutch fitted and we will see what it makes. If the thing doesn't pull a power figure near my estimations then I will be ripping that turbo of, going strait to a big Garret and back on the dyno for an update tune and power figure. Big deal... its not like I am trying to pull huge numbers out of a stock RB25DET or something.

shut up shane_180sx I don't want to hear your dribble. Just wait until I post up dyno sheet so you can then shut your mouth. I ordered a Jim Berry full monty so this should hold up nicely.

Hi guys, I got my skyline running quite nicely now. I put a brand new exedy H/D organic clutch in when I put my new RB30DET in. I would have put something more suited in but I had it lying around as I brought it to be use on my old RB25DET. Any way, with the exedy H/D organic in I get clutch slip under boost... I am running 1.8 bar of boost but yeah... it kinda sucks. It slips pretty majorly, So I need to get my self a new clutch. But being that I just spent every cent I own on my new engine setup I don't really have any thing left to replace the clutch. I could prolly spend up to $2000 on a clutch but I just can't find any thing in that price range that will handle the power I am making. I am pushing 330RWKW and I was going to put a NOS kit in it to push it over 400RWKW when I got greedy but now that I think about it I don't think my gearbox, diff, tail shaft or half shafts would like that very much so I will probably have to stay at 330RWKW. I am not a fan of on/off type button clutches as this is mainly a road car. I would like a single plate type setup with massive clamping pressure but I am open to ideas of twin plates that can handle the power. Also yes I am in Tasmania and I need it fitted as I am lazy and cbfed doing it my self, Any one know of a place that can set me up?

Hi all, Got my snot box running finally. I have been playing with the fuel maps on the microtech to get it running ok so I can drive it to launny for Brad Sheriff to tune it. It seems to be running well, I had to take the intake manifold off twice to weld up some holes car was idling at 2500rpm due to leaks... and this is a Japanese manifold not a Chinese one. I could listen to my RB30DET idle all day... sounds so insane. NOS is soon to come, I am looking at a 100HP shot, maybe push it up to 150HP if I am keen enough. Here is the latest pic of the engine bay. Also I am loving the 4" intercooler piping butting up against that 115mm(outside diameter) TB. Found out it was 115mm Out Diam when I tried to put a 4" silicon joiner on it and failed. I am maxing out the KKR560 that is on it so I am looking at getting a custom top mount made up so I can still close my bonnet and going to a KKR720X and 50mm external gate. This will be a few months away though. EDIT: I also put 2 bucket seats in and a 5 point harness.

Guys, its all running. I reverted my changes on the fuel map back to the standard, rewired some the coil packs and the injectors. All new wire so it looks schmico. I checked over all the wiring with a multimeter so I am not sure why this fixed it... I probably killed it when I was stuffing around with the ECU maps. The microtech software gives me a headache just looking at it. Any way with the stock rb25DET base tune its running some how with 865CC injectors... Quite a shock actually.. it blows unburnt petrol smoke but it idles alight.. can't wait to get it dyno tuned. First time I have heard the engine start in around 10 months, That reminds me I still have running-in oil in the motor as its only done 1500km. Will have to drain that out and put the HPR-5 in it. Thanks for the help guys. Also does any one here know how to change the fuel map on a Microtech. When I talked to the guy who will be dyno tuning it he was like dont bother trailering it here just change the scale of the fuel map down 40% and she will be ables just baby it all the way here. Looking at the software I have no idea how to change the scale of the fuel map. I can see all of the data points but I would have to change every single one down by 40%... there is like 256 points or somefin and I dont want to screw up the base tune again. edit: Also SSHatch, I brought the injectors before I brought the ECU so I researched that quite a bit. Microtechs are made to run low impedance injectors being that they are mainly used on rotaries. I never found out if PowerFCs can run low impedance. Most stock ECUs hate low impedance though. I found an old pic of my engine bay when I first brought the car, It's come a long way in ~18months. That engine went to a metal recycling place BIG BANG! And current photo, (engine bay needs tidy up and clean) front bar is off so I can get it on a trailer.

:S..... Disregard anything about the broken key on the cam I got the CAS lined up... it happend over 12 months ago and I have driven my car perfect after. I spent like a week trying to line the CAS up with out a key. I just said I dont want to take my CAS out because I dont want to line it up again. The car ran PERFECT... after I got the CAS lined up. I am running standard CAS. I am getting spark. I can't hear the injectors open... they are brand new Siemen Deka 83LB low impedence injectors. I hocked a duty cycle readout to one of the injectors and during cranking it showed up about 38% duty cycle.... I need to get a screw driver to my ear against the injector to see if I can hear it click, These injectors might just be a quite... no idea. I have tested the grey power wire for the injectors it has 12.8Volts. earthing issue... I will check the earth on the microtech when I get home. I have the microtech plugged into my laptop and the microtech software works fine. I did an error check on the microtech and it returned nothing. I have nfi what is going on. might just take the car to the dyno tuner and tell him to make it work.

I am running an RB20DET igniter and external Bosch coil packs with leads rather than upgrading to spitfires or something like that. I am getting spark as when I unplug the lead I can aim it at the cam covers and get a nice big spark when I try to start it. Also that comment about it not running at all if its a tooth out... I have had it a tooth out a few times and it just ran really bad.. you could still drive it though. like mega retarded or advanced timing.

This happend 12 months ago but any way: Engine/Car:R33 RB25DET Type of failure: Snapped conrod on 1st piston, smashed piston 1 into metal shavings, punched holes in the cylender walls. Factors influencing the failure: Engine had a long and hard life. State of tune of the engine: SAFCII tuned 220RWKW, 18psi..... Suspension and tyres: big ones... Oil used and service interval: HPR15, every 5000km General comments: Pulled the engine down and it was a huge mess.... other conrods looked like they had hairline fractures aswell... RB25DETs dont have the strongest conrods.

Yes there is a trick to getting it up fitted correctly with out the key. You have to be @ TDC and then line up a mark on the CAS. I have reground cams :'( I also have an R32 RB25DE head on top of a RB30E block. Not sure if there is a difference between R32 RB25DE cams and R33 RB25DET cams. Might smash some wild after market cams in when I get around to it. Also the car has been running after I broke the key.... I had the car running on stock injectors and stock ECU for about 1500km to run in the engine after the key snaped out.

I would like to try this but I.... can't. When I built my engine the key behind the CAS snapped off... so there is nothing to line the CAS up against. It took me AGES to get the CAS in the right position. I would replace my CAS as I have a few spares but its actually the key on the head and not the key on the CAS. If you are not sure what I am taking about, CAS has a half circle and the head has a half circle and when you put the CAS in it makes it so you can't put the CAS in at the wrong angle. CAS at wrong angle doesn't make engine happy

It ussualy helps if you read the the whole thread before posting. I have modified the fuel map on my microtech and it makes no difference. I am not concerned that it doesn't start I am more concerned that I get no ignition what so ever. I had these injectors installed while I had standard ECU and I could wind the car over and it would cough and splutter and cry about being soo rich. At the moment I get NOTHING... car just winds over like it has no fuel.

I shot you a PM. I got a car for you to tune that might give us all a benchmark of your abilities. 320RWKW with out NOS and 400RWKW+ with NOS is my estimate for my R33 so it will be a good benchmark to see how he goes with high power RBs. Might have to go a bigger turbo so I don't need the NOS to get 400RWKW