Finny

Hi all, I have an RB25DET that has a 1st pistons that is sort of in MANY pieces.. including the rod and a nice busted up bore. I am importing a new engine so I have all the parts off the old engine for sale. The head is still alive but it will need 4 new valves on piston one as they are covered in dents from pieces of piston. Also all if you look at this picture (not my head) http://www.signatureperformance.com.au/bmps/head02.jpg you can see that RB25 heads have flattened off edges so were the pistons comes up isn't an exact circle, well thoes edges have been dented from bits of piston. If you are interested in the head then I can take some pics or get a quote on repairs if you like. I am not selling the turbo as I am keeping that for my new engine but I can sell the exhaust manifold and before you ask the stock turbo coming with my new engine has already been purchased from some one. There is no loom or ecu but every thing else is for sale. It has stock injectors which is why the engine went bang as 370cc Injectors don't support 300RWKW worth of air very well :S I am in Hobart, Tranmere

Ok I have experienced the exact same problem.. And guess what it is!!! Rich and Retard on the ECU and Also RB25DET stock ECUs have a limit to how much air you get, if you reach the limit you will get a cut (complete loss of all power for like 1-2 seconds). When you change the values on your SAFC to -15% what your doing is telling the ECU that your are getting 15% less air than you really are so your bassicly delaying the air flow cut by 15%. Now the first thing your going to do after reading this is NEVER EVER EVER do that again unless you want holes in your pistons. -15% to an air fuel mixture would take 12:1 to 13.8:1 and I bet that its only due to Rich and Retard that this isn't causing engine problems. Seriously don't touch your SAFC unless you know what your doing, take it to a dyno tuner for a quick tune, prolly cost you about $100-$200 just to get the right settings on your SAFC. Ok now I will cover Rich and Retard, because your running 14.7psi your prolly getting pinging, might not be hear-able but you would be getting it, when that happends the ECU richens up the fuel mixture and retards the timing which gives you poping sounds in your exhaust because the timing is probably so retarted that the air and fuel is still igniting when the exhaust valves open. What you need is new management of some sort, SAFC's just don't cut it. I am still on the search for cheap management to fix these issues but havn't gotten any where yet. You can make this less of an issue by always running good fuel, experiment with different fuels see what works better, make sure you use 98 octane, this will stop the poping etc. Also take your car to a dyno tuner for the SAFC they might be able to make it better. Lower your boost, 11-12psi at the absolute most. Trust me with your setup you will get more power on 11psi than on 14.7

Ok I have been looking at full A/M management for my R33 RB25det for about 8 months now and I really can't find a decent option. I could go PowerFC for $1600 + $1000 for tune (Tasmania ) so $2600 total but I would actually prefer Microtec LTX-12s $1600 + $1000 tune But I don't really have that much money at the moment and bassicly I have got to the stage where I can't drive my car because of the need of management. I have a Apexi SAFC II but I really need to do more, eg timing. And just recently I have taken a really good look at the e-manage. I didn't look at them to start with as I was strongly against piggy backs after the SAFC. What I want to know with the E-Manage though, has any one been able to make like ~250-300RWKW sort of thing with an E-manage, Also can you get rid of R&R and the Air Flow limit on stock ECU. Also I VERY much doubt that this is possible but some fool told me that you can remove rev limits and speed cut with it aswell.. I don't see how rev limit can be removed but speed cut... maybe...

I took my car out for a sneeky run and it was wheel spin. Also no it wasn't from changing 3rd to 4th. I changed early into 4th.. like 2000rpm then put the foot down and waited till about 5500rpm and one wheel light up a bit then the other wheel started to spin then it grabbed traction. Also Muz, the clutch is new I know there is nothing wrong with it I just want to know if I am making too much power for it. Sure your answer will tell me if the clutch is worn out but not if I have too much power for it. I am running no boost controller so stock KKR560 actuator which is about 16psi in 4th and 5th as KKRs don't have a big enough internal gate to hold 10psi on a car like mine. I get about 14psi in 1st, 2nd, 3rd and about 16psi in 4th and 5th but its a hell of a lot better than my old turbo (early KKR480) which I saw 28psi on stock actuator.

Yeah a friend of mine has an R34 GTT, its a 4sp triptronic. He has pretty much killed the box with only stock power and 100,000km. Now it takes for ever to shift gears and you pretty much have to mail it an invite to down gear when you use the triptronic controller.

Hi all, I just got a friend to come and take my car for a spin after I finished fitting my new turbo (KKR560). Any way I have the "Heavy Duty Organic clutch kit (240rwkw), $335" clutch which I fitted not so long ago and going up a hill we had wheel spin in 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th :S 1st,2nd and 3rd were definatly wheel spin as the back end was lively but 4th was more, hit 5000rpm then tacho bounced to ~7000rpm and then slowly moved back to ~5500rpm. So it was either wheel spin or clutch slipping. I unfortunatly don't have my licence so I really can't test it out to get further info. I am lazy and haven't dynod my car yet but I would have to say around 230-240RWKW with 4.4:1 diff gears. As far as tyres go I have a set of 245mm wide Bridgestone Potenzas that are in fairly good condition. But any way I didn't think 4th gear wheel spin was possible with my sort of power so I am thinking it must be the clutch slipping. So my question is, is there any one out there who has managed to make this clutch slip and if so what power was required. Also with my gear ratios do you guys think that was wheel spin in 4th or just clutch slipping. We didn't shift hard into 4th just soft then when VCT kicked in at 5000rpm the tacho went mad. Also.... it was bone dry.

I am throwing 24psi at this thing It had plenty of oil... There is now oil spraying out between the housings.

damn. it was like it when I first installed it. Hate against KKR, they can go jump off a cliff

I slapped my KKR480 turbo on a while back and ever since its been blowing oil smoke... :'( Obviously leaking down the shaft because sleve bearing sucks. It wasn't really blowing much smoke then yesterday I put some new oil in it, basicly just to flash it out, some crappy oil thats like $18 for 4L. I was planning to run this for a few 100km then put some decent stuff in it. Any way now the car is undrivable due to the ammount of smoke it bellows. Before I go an buy my decent oil what do you guys thing I should get, I know that the type of oil does make a difference and the oil seals in my turbo fine its just that its a crappy sleve bearing and rather than having an oil seal it basicly just has a metal C clip and sits on the shaft and oil leaks through it easy as. My oil drain is nice and big and free flowing but yeah I basicly want this thing to be drive able so I can save up for a couple of months and get a Garret GT40R. So any Idea's on oil, I heard that it will blow heaps of smoke on synthetic because its such a thin oil but yeah what do you think? any Ideas? I am tempted to hit my oil line with a hammer and let the turbo have a slow death from not much oil, atleast I will get my 3 months life out of it... maybe... so I can get a Garret GT40. Nice waste of $950 I guess.

Sorry guys I accidentily put + rather than - thing is I have sen a fair few stock dyno graphs and ussually the stock tune richens to like 11:1 AFR after about 5000rpm which is way too rich, I think 12:1 would be much better thats why I am saying I can't see why he would be richening the mix at all.. When they did my mates R34 they said they want to run it a tad rich so that its nice and safe and they didn't add fuel to the map any where.

Umm mate you got ripped hard. I live in Tasmania, the land of incompetent expensive dyno tuners and my mate got his SAFC tuned for $100 and it looked a lot more extensive than that. He also has an R34 GTT! He had 12 points being a SAFC II not NEO but this is basically what hes looked like. 1000 1500 2000 2500 3000 3500 4000 4500 5000 5500 6000 6500 7000 Hi Throttle +3 +12 +15 +15 +8 +5 +5 +5 +5 +5 +5 +5 I can't remember low throttle but it was basically the same but leaner. This obviously depends on the car, fuel ect. I really dont know why he is making the car run richer.. that sounds really stupid because these cars run around 11AFR with stock tune which is way too rich. He basically got just over 12AFR all the way except a little leaner before boost. I would be requesting to see a graph of the AFRs before I accept a tune as finished. Ummm.. calc in 1 out 1.... I dont think thats right I thought it was suppose to be in 4 out 4.. look in your SAFC manual.

When I brought my R33 GTS-T it came with an un-installed turbo timer... its been 6 months and I still haven't installed it. I live in Tasmania were there is so many fkn bogan kunts getting around steeling cars I don't want it to make it any easier. The one I have isn't the type of one were when you pull the hand break down it turns off and it wouldn't surprise me if a bogan smashed out my window while I was walking away from the car then extend the time on my turbo timer and drive off. I was driving home at about 2am yesterday and saw a bunch of bogans walking down the road with sticks, then I saw a skyline with every window smashed out of it and the hole body was kicked to death. bonnet and boot broken off. The roof was all pushed in to hell, must have been jumping on it. I mean seriously can't the bogans just copy the emos and go kill them selves. any way thats my 2cents, I am not retarded enough to need something to keep my car running for me, just drive it easy for the last km before you get home and you don't have to worry about it.

Ummm you do realize what a voltage clamp does.... I had a turbo smart fuel cut defender installed in my car when I brought it but I removed it. This is why. say you clamp at 4.7V so it doesn't cut Say AFM reads 5.5V worth of air. ECU sees 4.7V. Thats going to make it run very very lean and at those revs I wouldn't be surprised if pistons melted. The way I know how to fix it for sure with out aftermaket ECU is this. get say 550cc injectors then run -33% fuel on your safc. When AFM reads 5V it -33% so tells ECU 3.35V. Car doesn't run lean because injectors are bigger and there is no cut but AFM will max. To fix AFM max run a 33% AFM bypass then you can remove the SAFC adjustments and the car will then max AFM and boost cut 33% later.

No, I have watched ebay for about the last 6 months and the cheapest one went for $1300 with out a hand controller. The ECR33 Power FC are rare unless you want to pay $1500. Its actually cheaper to buy a microtech and I would much prefer a microtech LTX12s over a PFC. I live in Tasmania and don't trust any of the tuners here, I would prefer to boat my car to the mainland but year I was quoted $3000 for a Power FC installed and tuned from pritty much the only dyno tuner around here. Its not R&R I don't care what any one says... Rich and retard is only about 4 degrease retarded and maybe between 10-11 AFRs. This compleatly cuts off.. eg no ignition what so ever... like the engine completely cuts there is no engine noise nothing. My car pings and when it pings the car R&Rs which feels like you have droped a couple of pounds of boost and thats all. Also I already have a SAFCII and it hits 100% AFM at 5500rpm. I don't know if thats the true maximum though or just what the SAFC regards as max voltage. Also E-Manage wont do any thing about AFM max or the cut, even with a map sensor because the E-manage translates the map sensor signal into a stock AFM signal so there for you might as well have an AFM any way because the signal can only reach so many volts.

Hi all, I am at the stage where I can't drive my car with out it air flow cutting. eg. AFM picks up too much air and the ECU cuts. I have a KKR480, very high flowing 3" exhaust, FMIC, SAFCII ect. the stock actuator is 10psi and I am hitting air flow cut at about 5500rpm even on 10psi. I don't really have the money to go full after market management because; PowerFC $1550 + $1000 for tune. Its actually cheaper to get a Link or Microtech. I have been looking at some remapped ECUs on ebay but I really dont trust those because you can never tell what they have exactly done to the tune, eg the car they tuned it on could be nothing like mine. Does any one know of a cheap way to remove this bloody air flow cut.. its really anoyying the hell out of me. Also this is a full on ECU CUT not R&R, I will make a video later to prove. some people call it boost cut but its not techniclly a boost cut as the ECU doesn't have a pressure sensor, its triggured by the ECU picking up too much air or a spike in air flow.

Yes I just ironed out some over boost issues with my car and will be putting it on the dyno after I get a re-tuned ECU. stock ECU can't even handle 10psi from a KKR480.

Hi all, In their FAQ they have Q. I don't have a license, can I still enter? A. Entrants must have provisional Drivers license to be allowed to enter the event. I first thought ohh bugger because my licence has been suspended for hooning... woopsie... I was also told that I still may be able to run because I have had a licence or what ever.... Dont see how that actually works but I assume I can't actually enter. Can some one confirm this because I would love to enter.

Yeah It pops HUGE flames out the back somefin cronic... also back fires every now and then. Opps I had it wrong its max anti-clockwise.. I have had people look at it and they have said it was max advanced. I thought I turned it clock-wise but when I checked it was actually anti-clockwise. So yeah its obviously very retarded even though I have the cas turned full advanced. I will try pulling the cas off like you said.

I turned it clockwise as far as it would go. I am going to buy a decent timming light tommorow and have a look. Is there any way to advance it more than the cas will let you turn it, maybe pulling it out?

Hi All, When I first got my R33 GTST it was pinging quite badly so I then filled up with RON98 and that seemed to make it a little better. I then started modding and put in a FMIC, SAFC, removed the turbosmart fuel cut defender (donno why the previous owner had one of thoes on it... some tool prolly said he needed one). The car then never pinged and I lost A LOT of power.. I even posted a thread saying installed FMIC and lost a lot of power. I then turned my CAS so it was running maximum timing and still the car didn't ping. Put 91ron in it on 18psi... no pinging.... After I installed my KKR480 and found some very quick spooling times and some one posted that it may be because of retarted timing which seems to make a lot of sence because of what had happend since I installed my FMIC. I though maybe my SAFC II is doing wierd things with my timing so I removed the SAFC II and cheched the knock sensor lines to make sure they were all fine which they were. I still think that I have very retarted timing for some reason because after all the mods I have done to the car its not running as hard as it did when I first brought it with stock boost and I shouldn't be able to run 91ron and 18psi and not ping with stock ecu considering the car pinged on 8psi with 91ron when I first got it. I am going to get a Microtech LTX12s so I assume that will fix my timing problems but does any one have any suggestions before I go ahead and do that?

I have done some pritty mad tuning with my SAFC II so that this thing spools at 3000rpm I might disable my changes and see how it goes. I also have maximum timing and a strait through 3" exhaust with a cannon, no mufflers. I bored the wastegate out my self... but because I didn't replace the flap I bored it out about 1-0.5mm less than the size of the flap which is still a huge difference. I will bore it out further and change the flap and see how I go but I dont think its going to make any difference because the V clamp dump is too restrictive for a larger wastegate hole. I really don't know why people say that the KKR 480 is a laggy turbo, my car is pritty much stock and it spools it before 3000rpm.

Dude KKR480s have a dump molded into the turbo so that its just got a V clamp back end. It is impossible to modify. I got my waste gate bored out about 5mm all the way around so from about 20mm to 30mm and it made no difference, still boost spiking like crazy with the waste gate fully open.

Yes my exhaust is very free flowing, Also jeff please read the tread before replying. Problem is I want a low mount manifold because I just got my dump pipe and intercooler piping fabricated to suit the low mount but I am pritty sure there is no low mount external gate manifolds about.

Hi all, I am having big over boost issues with my KKR 480. If I disconnect my actuator so the waste gate is fully open the car still hits about 25psi at 5000rpm :S... The turbo is fairly new and the wastegate isn't getting stuck closed. It makes no sence... you shouldn't really see any boost when the wastegate is fully open. I had this same turbo on my VS commodore and that didn't over boost. First time I boosted it with the KKR480 in it I saw my AutoMeter boost gauge hit the stopper so about 35-40psi and it blew one of my silicone joiners inside out when I ripped my foot off the accelerator and this is running with the actuator hocked up with no boost controller.

I couldn't really verify my boost/rpm because I have no license but a friend of mine was driving it tonight and we concluded 14psi @ 2700rpm up a hill and 3rd gear 14psi @ 3000rpm on a strait. Even in 2nd gear spools 14psi at about 3200rpm at the most. I am going to get video footage of this, would get some tonight but my mobile wont show up much in the dark. Tomorrow I will see if I can get hold of a video camera and record some footage. I am having a few issues tuning my boost levels so I am only running at 14-15psi. I would have to assume 18-20psi would only be an extra 100 or 200rpm.