neil_se

Dru, i have a dry CF bonnet with vents and bonnet pins, and didn't have any compliance problems.

Tentative interest from me depending if i've got my PFC or not. I can't believe how bloody expensive these dyno days are getting!

Something else sounds up rather than just a bad launch and wheelspin, you should still be running, at worst, 106mph. Even when i had a shocking 60', wheelspin til 3rd, hot day, blah blah, i still ran the same mph of 114 even though my ET was 13.4. I also had a lightened flywheel, but it wasn't the cause of my crap times (best of 13.0@113mph).

Sold

People get steelies widen for drag commodores and falcons, not sure of the cost and i doubt it could be done to alloy rims.

I think by "out" he means the distance that the mounting surface is from the inside of the rim, and "in" being the distance to the face from the lip of the rim.

Ahh, its all good SK, just got your definition of "out" and "in" the wrong way in my head, by "out" you mean backspace.

$650 plus $180 for both tyres

Something doesn't sound right there SK, a +12 9.5" should stick out a lot more than a +35 8".According to my offset calculator: "The clearance from stut housing to the inside of the wheel will be 4mm MORE The outside edge of the wheel will EXTEND an extra 42mm"

Really wanted to keep these but need the money for an alarm Genuine Speed Star rims, very hard to come by this model. Few gutter scrapes and wear but good condition overall. Price is without tyres, but they are available for an extra $180 with the rims, or $220 after rims have sold. Dunlop FM901, 255/35/18, 90% tread (valued at over $700 for the pair). Click for larger pics. Asking $650ono. Add $180 for tyres. PM or email me with any offers ([email protected]) Pickup on the Gold Coast or buyer to organise freight (try http://www.busfreight.com for quotes).

I had my car complied as a 2 seater and the engineer required the rear seat belt threads to be welded up so there was no possibility of seats being fitted. Doesn't really worry me, the car is stripped and harness is in the way anyway.

I've also got the same questions. I've bought a full set of stock suspension to use instead of my coilovers and have all adjustable suspension arms. Plan on using Comp T/As, Yoko A048s or MT radials. AFAIK its not wise to change the spring rates in aftermarket coilovers as the coilover is calibrated for that stiffness (i'm sure someone can explain better). You're better off getting your stock suspension redone to 90/10 front and 10/90 rears.

The BSB is where you set up the account so even if he had move his BSB would remain as the Newcastle one.

I might get a diff shop to change the oil and do an inspection.

My replies are getting all out of kilter I think i need to take someone who's had 2-ways before for a drive and see if they can relate.

Yeah, that's what it feels like. My old standard diff in the 180 made clunking noises on/off the clutch at low speeds too due to the button clutch sending shock through the tailshaft.

Mine is a deep 'mechanical' sound. The exhaust is attached very firmly, there is slight grinding noise due to working the surface rust off my brake rotors, and the boot rattles round a bit, but this can clearly be heard over the top.

I've just got my silvia on the road today and am making sure nothings wrong before i really start to drive it. I know the hallmarks of a 1.5/2 way diff are noise going round corners at low speed but i've got very pronounced noise and clunking around corners and going straight at low speeds. Its most noticeable rolling at low speeds then engaging/disengaging the clutch with a little bit of throttle. The clunk is enough to be felt throughout the car and my seat. I would expect the car to have a mech diff as its fully set up for drift. Fully stripped interior/boot and drift suspension setup are obviously going to increase the noise and vibration, but is this level of 'clunking' normal? Diff pictured below (non-standard rear cover?).

Pftt, that's not stretched. I've got 215/45/17 Advan Neova AD07s on 9.5" rims

Yeah, that's what i thought because the Motor Vehicle Standards Act was introduced on 2nd August, 1989. Now i'm trying to find a statement saying that cars only need to be complied to meet ADRs at time of manufacture.

My complier is telling me that i need a high-mount brake light for my 7/1988 vehicle. Where can i find information to show that this is not required on vehicles pre July-1989 as mentioned earlier?

Sorry dude, but they're $990 brand new, delivered to my door, with warranty from a forum sponsor.

No sorry, just meant that the same person can give me a mod plate for the mods then engineer's certificate.

Excellent, i'll just get someone who can mod plate the brakes, seats, then engineer the car.

Thread's gone a bit dead, but i was wondering if a particular engineer was needed to sign off the compliance, or if a normal engineer (mod plater in qld) could do it?