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Charles89

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Everything posted by Charles89

  1. Yup, I made the template and hooked up all the led's myself, using this DIY guide, Then slotted it into my OEM housing. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/371044-diy-led-tail-light-and-brake-light/
  2. I'd check all your electrics, similar happened to be before, but my headunit would restart too. Check/clean all your grounds and battery terminals, mine was grounding issue.
  3. I made my own using OEM housing:
  4. That's probably because you called him Jim, I think his name is Garry and his last name is Jatt2010. Plus, looking at the descriptions and the quality of it, your car might look like this once you fit up the skirts: But if that's the look you are after, I'd say go for it!
  5. From almost worn out shitty front pads and oem rotors, I upgraded to RDA slotted rotors, bendix ultimate pads, stock lines, new fluid, brake master cylinder stopper. And It made a world of difference and it is DEFINITELY noticeable. Did the rotors and pads first, and even then, there was a difference in stopping distance, maybe because old pads were just crap. Then the BMC stopper made my brakes FIRM and a much better feel in braking, no more unresponsive spongy brakes.
  6. A photo that was taken from a potato?
  7. GTT and GTR has different cooling plates, due to the GTR's front bar sits higher than GTT's.
  8. The unit is in working order when removed from my car. Removed it because there is a small hairline crack on the bottom left of the screen (as pictured) and I've replaced it with another unit. The polarize film will also need to be replaced due to discolouring and air bubbles (costs like $15). Comes with the shroud, MFD unit and OEM Nissan loom (uncut). Could include a Clarion AV in cable at an extra cost. Can test it in my car for serious buyer. SOLD
  9. Try for sale section...
  10. The crack on the bottom left happened to me as well, I'm fairly sure it's from the screw on that corner being done up too tight, and all the bumps on the road must have jolted the MFD and cracked the surround.... So bought a new MFD and left that screw out.
  11. Try get some from a wrecked R34, probably the cheapest and easiest option
  12. Got lucky and got an Arcan last year before they went discontinued. Great jack, hasn't failed me yet. But I think Repco sells one that's similar for under $200 too.
  13. Stock
  14. Another shoot
  15. During a proper compliance when the car is imported from Japan, they should/would have taken out/cut off the factory HID ballast and convert it to H1 halogen bulb. But in the last few years, compliance seems to have stopped doing that, maybe because there's just too many cars on the road with HIDs nowadays, but it still doesn't make factory HID on R34 legal... So yes, it is defectable.
  16. Not suss at all....
  17. So is there lights on your dash? Does your horn work? Does the car crank?
  18. Thanks for the kind words guys @sonnyQ, yeah after my garage door seal keeps getting scraped off, I decided I'd do it properly haha
  19. I've bought one of those before, they WILL be more narrower than the skyline front, but you will have to mod it to fit.
  20. Thanks I bought mine 2nd hand from Gumtree for a few hundred. But it seems like C-West has a dealer in ACT: http://www.c-westusa.com/map/overseas.asp
  21. Only just saw this again, but there are a few ground points inside your engine bay. One noticeably is on the left hand side of the engine (if you are facing the car), on the chassis rail? right of your battery. Forgot where the other ones are, I can check tonight for you guys if you still haven't solved your problems. And no, the car doesn't need to be on a hoist to access them lol. Might be worth adding an extra ground or two around the engine bay, or buy a ground kit.
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