unique1

the user who started this topic is actually me. I fitted them with no dramas at all, and they are still on the car today.

nothing more for sale in this thread now. may as well lock cheers

A HKS 0.81 to4z will go over 450kw, mine made 605rwhp (i think thats around 463rwkw) on only 21psi on 98 pump fuel. Others with garrett 0.83 versions have also done the same and better with more boost.

ill have to dust the cobwebs off mine and give it a run as it hasnt moved in months, might suss out a decent tune if i get off my arse, and have it running at full potential. No long cruises i prefer to chat than drive myself, and long weekend = double demerits and any bbq areas are gonna be packed too.

mine ran 11.3 at 125mph with 417rwkw (on a 2wd dyno, though drags was done in 4wd), shitty 235 17' street tyres and full weight s1 with twin sunroofs, around the 1800kg+ mark with me in it. Definately had more in it at that power level, i was spinning 1st and start of 2nd. I was up with sports bikes on the street and pretty much unbeatable unless something else had 4wd as well. If you wanna go round corners etc buy a gtr or something, the stagea isnt gonna ever be a decent track car simple as that. I had spent alot of cash and for one the stock gtr 5 speed wont handle it so i had a dogbox in it, which itself is not cheap at all. If you want some cheap fun this is the way to go.. r32 gtst, stock rebuilt rb30 with 25 or 26 head, gt3076r or 35r and run 420rwhp or so all day everyday and its cheap as hell, reliable, and will run mid to low 11s easy with stock 5 speed box and they are light and handle well. Pretty bunky daily drivers though, im talking as a track fun car and have another daily driver vehicle to commute in.

i have sinc epicked up another two pairs of pads for the f50 calipers so will be keeping them myself now.. only stoptechs for sale

bump - 1k for the stoptechs also have some 324mm 2 piece biot rotors (google them - top quality jap brand) if your making up brakets to suit. near new with 3mm or wear remaining. $400 a pair

i got a 3076r 0.82 on a 26/30 with stock rb30 n/a pistons, stock 26 head and stock cams, it makes 21psi at 2900rpm in 4th on flat road, though its hard to tell exact as i cant log the boost/rpm to double check. It does die in the arse abit up top but i think its due to cam timing which i still havent bothered to sort out. Its making a lack of power due to the same reason but just doesnt have the feel of a bigger turbo i am used to. The whistle of the thing annoys the shite out of me too, i hateeeeee it.

got some 17x9 +38 and 17x10 +40 sitting here

thanks guys, the photoshoot for the mag was done ages ago so it has 33 gtr rims in the mag, maybe one pic of the LM's on it, the car now runs a totally different setup and that engine and box is in a 32 gtr. Should be interesting with the weight saving on what its capable of. heres the actual pics of the drag run... (the other car ran a 10.6 and check out the KMH speed difference, i caught him in the top end, though he was auto and had a killer launch)

same same?? fishy? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissan-R35-...sQ5fAccessories

mine runs the 4.3 ratio as well, i find its good for response but shocking for freeway cruising, im sitting on like 2700rpm on 100kmh which it sounds alot with the 3' exhuast noise and hence the reason im sitting on 0 vacuum at that speed. I would prefer the 3.5 or something as mentioned then it would be nice. Something around 2200rpm at 100kmh would be ideal.

pm sent

i think the 26 head is the easier option, no need to stuff around welding up the vct. Just use rb25 headbolts and bolt it on. No need for cams, springs or anything changed at all, not to mention the better plenum with easier pipework, invidivual tb's and no bonnet clearance issues as well. Oh and the 26 head looks 10000 times better than a 25 one Turbo options are everywhere if you want twins or single theres plenty to chose from. Dont bother with forged anything for 300rwkw, its just a waste and makes theh build about 3 or 4 times more expensive if you upgrade everything else to handle what the forged internals can do. Spend the cash on a decent tuner and it will go for years and not cost a hell of a lot.

^^This man speaks the truth. I have probably said it 100 times over the years but ive had both ends of the spectrum in my stagea and honestly anything over 300rwkw is a waste of time for what it costs. The stagea is not a track car and never will be its just not small enough, ive tried and its just not worth the hassle when u can play around with a 32 gtr or something and everything is off the shelf and a shitload lighter. My current combo is fine for a street car and drives perfect, i think the 3076r is a little small and noisy (whistles like a t51r) but besides that the off boost drivability is brilliant, i go through small roundabouts in 3rd and it just cruises along, no annoying 2nd gear everytime u want to accelerate like the old 26 was (though it had a 800hp turbo on it so not ideal comparision). my idea was go for a cheap power figure so everything is reliable but still retains a fair bit of stock gear. Theres no point swapping out 10 things because u want an extra 30kw or something, it just doesnt make it worth it. I went rb30 bottom end, freshened up with stock cast replacement pistons (20 thou oversize) and rods, king bearings, machined and bored, new tensioner and idler, new seals and decked. All up its very very cheap and capable of holding 430rwhp or so i reckon for a long time. The head is a stock 26 setup with a freshen up as well, stock cams and stock valve gear. Turbo is the 3076r external gate which as i said is pretty small but definately capable of making the 430rwhp range i was after. It makes 21psi at 3000rpm in 4th on the road. Cam timing is currently not right so max power isnt that much at this stage and i havent had a chance to play around with it yet (i tuned it on the road with a mate helping). For the 430hp mark you dont need a super clutch either, a single with decent clamp pressure is fine, no twin plate rattles or heavy pedal feel. The rb26 injectors are just on the limit at 400hp so thats something needed to be changed, but i retain stock fuel reg, stock rb26 oil pump, rb26 balancer, and stock plenum/tb's/intercooler. I also bought a pro engines sump adaptor for $900ish with the oil pickup to save hassles of making one, but the plate is only in the $600 range. thats my take on things after having a pretty crazy setup in the car before and changing it into a more street friendly vehicle. The biggest issue with big power (500hp and over) in a stagea and especially with 3l torque is the gearbox 3rd gear breaking issue. Upgrade options are super expensive too. So if you want more than the power i went for then its time to upgrade these things or look into it... gearbox twin plate clutch fuel pumps oil pump injectors head porting is an option cams gtr rear end axles, etc bigger baffled sump intercooler turbo exhuast size (need around 3.5' min) ati balancer and the list goes on...

same specs as brembo f40 calipers, 44/38mm pistons very little use, small scratch on face of one caliper but other then that - would look as good as new with a bit of a clean. DO NOT come with pads. $1200 alternatively i have a pair of f50 brembos (44/40mm pistons) in immac condition. not bothered which of the two sets i sell as im happy to run either. (would prob rather keep the brembos myself given i just bought pads for them but not phased. either set are directly interchangeable (have same radial mount dimensiones) would be chasign 1600 for the brembos however. do have a set of brand new endless cc-x pads to suit the brembos for extra.

mine was like 3.?? (cant remember exact number, but was measured with gtech) when i did it years ago with the old motor setup, it did a 11.1 @128mph on the gtech on same run (street tyres on the street with stock gtr manual box). 560hp at wheels, and pretty modified (too much to list)

i dunno, by the time u see and react to a warning light, then check gauge if the motor is running i would think its done damage if its lost oil pressure. The only drama i see with cutting the motor is then you lose power steering and mid corner could be dangerous if its unexpected. Best bet is use an accusump, they are around $450 and set up a light to come on if its activated and you still have 60 secs or more of safe oil pressure to either shut it off or protect the motor from any oil surge etc. I cant understand why these are not more popular in Australia?

sorry dude, didnt mean to hijack, just trying to help someone out on a bargain. ive done my fair share of info sharing on stageas over the past 6 years so im sure the mods arnt too fussed

Looks like the swaybar is sold (3 pm's in first 10 min lol) so if they all fall through ill put it back up for sale.

Ive got a whiteline rear swaybar from the sydneykid group buy ages ago for sale, its to suit an auto rs4 (wont fit rs4 s manual models). I swapped a 260rs cradle into mine so its no longer suitable. anyone keen im chasing $100 + delivery for it as im in Perth. Should be around $20ish depending on where u live. PM if your keen

11.3 at 124.8mph mine did with 560rwhp and full weight (1740kg + driver) with 235/17 street tyres, Engine had made over 600hp previous but had spark issues so only ran on 18psi boost setting. It will be featured in HPI magazine very very soon (next 2-3 months)

I dont want to hijack the thread but i dont think its worth starting another one for a very similiar topic. What is the largest set of semi slicks and full slicks that can be fitted on a 32 gtr? I am looking at 295s all round, is this possible or go abit smaller like 275s? Im running 17 inch rims, havent purchased them yet but looking at 10' wide rims too, so will 295s be too wide for those? whats the ideal size for a gtr for time attack sort of stuff. Its a pretty serious engine combo etc so i want as little traction issues as possible. Whats the best options for full slicks for this sort of stuff, and rough idea on prices? If the mods feel this isnt on topic then delete it and ill start a seperate thread.

ive used alot of clutch brands and my npc twin is by far the best drivability and ive never had any hint of slip with 600rwhp, 1750kg car and revlimiter drag launches with a dogbox. I have used an os giken quad and it was annoying to drive, on and off engagement which sucks. The NPC is so smooth to engage and its such a soft pedal feel considering the power it can hold. I would have no issue using it as a daily driver clutch its great. Ive also used direct clutch twin plate, extreme singles as well to compare. They are cheap too compared to the jap brand options so its definately got no compromises.