unique1

i dont think the attessa system would like it very much having lack of traction on the front end for long periods of time, its not really designed for that use. The clutch packs and attessa oil would heat up pretty quick i would imagine. The ocasional bit of soft sand and front wheel loss of traction is fine but non stop driving with the attessa operating the front wheels i doubt would be healthy. thats my 2c worth

anyone interested?

bump...

i think they are more to stop wind noise coming in the door gaps from the pillarless doors. I need a passenger side one as mine ripped off coming down the freeway one day They do get in the way getting in and out i must admit but they look alot neater with them on

hey mate they are part no. 1001M-N002 this is the page from the JUN website... http://www.junauto.co.jp/products/cylinder...t/index.html?en the specs are down the bottom of the page give me a PM and ill send u my phone number and u can call me and come round and have a look at them if u like

surely theres plenty of rb26 being rebuilt, these are a bargain and one of the best pistons around

i have a set of 6 rb26dett 87mm JUN forged pistons, still in the original box, never used. They come with JUN piston rings, pins and circlips as well. These are made by Cosworth and sold by JUN. selling due to them not fitting my block and i need custom sized ones now $1600 firm (i paid $1900 from greenline.jp only 3 weeks ago), they are $2200 from JUN distributors in Australia these run really tight bore clearances and piston slap is not an issue compared to other brands. Send me a PM for my contact details buyer pays postage, im in Perth, shipping wouldnt be anymore than $50 i'd imagine

shhhh yes im not gonna last long if i post too much lol, the mods love me

mine might be ready by september and i can join in this time i wouldnt hold my breathe though :laughing-smiley-014: im sure u can guess who this is

How much power are knock detection devices like this good for? ive been told with forged bottom end, big cams and solid valvetrain and 700hp+ (at wheels) that its very very hard to hear knock at all over the other engine noises, is this true?

I'd be using a hose clamp if u can as some zip ties rot in petrol after a while and u dont want a floating fuel pump If u want to use zip ties use about 4 or 5 so if one rots away theres still some holding it in position. Best bet is to do it with as little fuel in the tank as possible so u can see what u are doin abit better, also make doubly sure the cradle clips back in properly and it cant unclip and slide up. It took me a few goes at clipping it on but eventually it was fine good luck

No worries Leshy the 040 will work out in the perfect spot, it cant sit too low in the tank or u will be jamming the filter onto the bottom of the tank and restrict the flow. the position i have in that pic is spot on and only issue i can see is with the whole end of the pump being a filter its not as low in the tank and maybe with under 1/4 of a tank it would possibly not be submerged on hard cornering, but i reckon it would need to be pretty damn empty to do that.

the 040 will fit in easy, this is a pic of the 040 in the stock cradle from my stagea, i just used a hose clamp to secure it in and clipped it back in dont waste money on these direct fit Sard ones etc the Bosch ones fit perfect oh also a 040 doesnt have a sock on the end at all, the whole bottom of the pump is a metal gauze (sp?) so u dont need a sock end this is the cradle itself (i think from memory the top half of the cradle i removed to allow the fitment on the pump)