unique1

space the cross member down from the chassis is my guess

Good work Paul, what class are you running in over there? seems odd to run 9 second cars against the big drag cars, they definately dont do that here, theres a class here for all the injected drag cars and they are running around the 7 second region and compete with altered's and small rails with small blocks. The handicap would of been huge, you would of been at 3/4 track before she even left the line lol so does this mean the ppg "should" be pretty bulletproof now, or still possible issues with it? Are these shifters available for anyone or whats the go in getting one? I assume it can also be used on a circuit as well or only for drags? Send me a PM regarding info if you can mate. thanks

how much are they per litre for each Steve?

+1 Paul is spot on here, i had leak issue and kept throwing on new seals and still leaked, then realised its coming out the little corners of the front cam caps, just chuck a dob of goo on each corner side and therefore its totally sealed, its easy to work out where the nissan seal is gonna seal and the gap between the cam cap and the rocker cover seal will seal, then theres that little section where there is no seal from inside to outside at all on the corner edges.

lol, ive had a couple of classic runs (private roads ) in my stagea when it was in its old trim running low 11 seconds on street tyres with the dogbox, etc (years ago). One was on the way to the photoshoot with the HPI magazine photographer and pulled up along side a vy clubsport with 3 young blokes in it. They had all there windows down and the stage had big lumpy cams so it sounded not standard, and this back seat passenger yellow out to me.. "it looks fast" in a sarcastic tone lol. I just smiled casually lol The lights went green and he launched like a mad man, i didnt because i wasnt sure if he was gonna run, so my laggy little 2.7L took abit to get on boost, but by middle of second gear i blew past them like they were standing still and my open gate screaming they looked a little suprised too. So i slowed down after being about 10+ car lengths ahead and they do the flat out flyby crap. I just cruised along till next set of lights are here they were sitting there again and i just pulled up with a big grin. The same guy in the back seat said "i think u need a parachute on that thing" and they said nothing else. Also had a run with a sports bike and actually beat him and he rode next to me after i backed off and flipped his visor up and said "wtf is in that thing" and i just said a rb26 haha, he gave me thumbs up and went on his way. Those were fun times pity the cars nothing like that anymore and new laws means i wouldnt even waste my time or risk it. Im building a track car now to get all that hoon behaviour out in a proper environment.

i got 10' fronts with +20 offsets, lowered pretty damn low, it used to rub on the screw holding the gaurd liner on in the middle so i pulled that screw out and gaurd liners still in and ive never had an scrubbing issues. I am running stretched 235s though so that helps. theres a pic in this thread of the setup on last page from memory

i am assuming they are only leaking when cold and when warmed up are fine. I never hear a leaking noise or anything so it doesnt bother me. The car never got drivin often and was taken off the road shortly after so never really fixed it.

do a leakdown test, that will show any signs of bad rings/valves/etc

i was comparing simons 625hp not my own setup nick. cerbera thats something i expected from you on a forum, just your style lol borg warners are where its at come on its a matter of personal preference i think, everyone has there own ideas of lag/power/fast.

so whats the best result on roller dyno (no happy hubs) for a gt35? like 530rwhp (dcieve)? and best t04z is 625hp? big difference, some like medium power and some like more power than that its the way it is

why all the hate on abit of lag, get it in the right gear and the thing will never come off boost. The t04z would be fine around a track as long as its not super tight. The t04z will make upwards of 650rwhp so its no where near the limit either. People under estimate an extra 80hp top end

eboost 2

the attessa ecu is behind the passenger side panel in the cargo area near the rear of the car, its a pain to get to the ecu as you have to remove a few trims.

nice work Duncan, the 30s do drive alot nicer than 25/26 capacity motors, especially in stop start traffic they just pull away from idle with ease. You can buy the internal oil pickup with the pro engines sump adaptor kit and it bolts straight on without any hassle. One thing to mention is when choosing this combo i feel a small turbo is not such a good idea (not aimed at you duncan). I run a 3076r on mine and it suffers from incrediblely shocking fuel economy, due to the car sitting on 0 on the vac/boost gauge at 100kmh on the freeway. Mines making over 20psi at 2900rpm which when on 100kmh on freeway its sitting on 2700rpm or so doesnt leave much until its wanting to get onto boost. Im going to bolt my t04z on mine and see how it is, then probably get some 2860-5 lowmounts for longterm to keep it looking stock (i run 26 head)

i pull the motor and box in one unit as well, i dont lift the car at all, except to fit the engine hoist under the suspension arms (only needs to go up about 20mm max) but thats because my car is real low. As said above, get the angle correct (pretty steep, more than 45 degrees anyway) and its simple, i have tried doing the box seperate and its a pain in the arse to get the box back onto the motor when the motor is getting put back in. I actually made up a little trolley that sits 10 mm off the floor to sit the rear of the box on when lowering it back in so it slides back without neeeding to sit it on the floor or on a trolley jack which is just too high.

good to hear mate! Yes i agree with URAS, get into it, i started mine and drove to petrol station and drove straight out for a road tune on 12psi and was reving it as per normal straight away (well about 15km in oncei got to our tuning location), the thing has done 1200km now and leakdown and comp is spot on, with zero blowby. I kept the run in oil in up to 50km and changed it for new run in oil (same stuff just new batch) until 1000km even though i was pushing the motor hard upto 20psi boost and redline on lots of occasions.

lol and what if it doesnt get pressure? bang its f*kt, i think thats a stupid option mate i would never ever do that, it only has to idle for 10 secs at 1000rpm (and not get oil pressure) and it will be like cranking for 10 min without zero oil, not smart in anyones book.

i just checked a bare block here and the oil pump comes from the outside holes and the centre is the feed into the engine, so u need to feed oil back into the outside area, i just dont know how to do it without a remote filter setup as thats what ive used on the engines ive done. I had issues getting pressure with one of the engines and cranked for over 5 min, before trying this method and finally it worked. Never had any dramas with damage to bearings when i pulled it down. Dont get too stressed im sure theres a very very slim chance its damaged, plus with you feeding oil into the engine as u were doing i bet abit of oil went to the bearings anyway, enough to keep them from going dry. good luck with it

im 99% sure its the way i said above (oil goes from the pump to the outer through the filter and into the engine through the middle hole), but it is 1am here so i cant check just yet, ill have a look in the morning and post it up as i have a few motors here being built i can check. Ill let u know as soon as i double check

if you have a remote filter take the adaptor off at the remote end (not the motor end) and pour oil down the one that comes from the pump (its usually labelled "out") and turn the motor backwards a few cranks with a socket and rachet. Then crank the motor foward with the starter motor with the lines still off for a second and it should start pumping out of the "out" hose. Dont let the motor fire though, unplug the CAS before you crank with the starter and you can even remove the plugs so it spins over easier. The other option is usually abit of vasoline in the oil pump gears before assembly makes life alot easier, but too late for that now. You just have to get rid of the airlock in the pump gears and get oil into it, hence pouring it down the outlet will feed it into the pump due to gravity and then when you crank it forward it will then start sucking it through the pickup from the sump. EDIT: sounds like your feeding oil into the motor rather than back into the oil pump, its the outer you need to feed it into to prime the pump!

a gtr box wont last 5 min behind a decent powered v8. they dont last long behind a 2.6L with good power so id suggest you look into that more if you want to retain the 4wd and use the gtr gearbox. PPG sells gearsets but they are pretty pricey and still not unbreakable. The best option is a holinger but im sure u know they are very very expensive. Just a thought as ive always thought about the v8 options myself but the retaining 4wd option is just too hard when factoring in a gearbox to take the punishment. Make it 2wd and its simple and throw some fat rubber under the rear and it will save alot of hassles. The stageas actually get really good traction when in rwd due to alot of weight hanging over and beyond the back wheels. I have ran 450rwhp in 2wd and it wouldnt even spin the tyres on a slow 20kmh roll on in 2nd gear, it just grips and goes, even with a big laggy turbo that hit very very hard. Oh and stagea rb25 sumps are exactly the same as any gtr sump (just the diff ratios are different but they are interchangable anyway) thats my 2c worth

thanks mate, ill look into it.

congrats for the first 9 sec pass today and a 9.0 at that on a half pass isnt a bad effort at all Pity i didnt come down, my old man came home and told me all about it as he said he was having a chat to you dave and smiley regarding a few things (he was crewing on the funny car team). I cant wait to get out there as well, mines getting closer by the day hopefully the ppg box holds up. Also that NPC clutch you sold me, was that just an off the shelf twin plate item with the different splines or a custom made unit? Im looking to order more clutch plates and want to get the same type as the thing drives soo nice yet handles a shitload of power