unique1

jump in a 400rwhp r32 and it will

on the street actually on a 3rd or 4th gear from low rpm run, havent been on a dyno yet to see, its been street tuned. This setup in a r32 or 33 would be awesome, in the stagea i have it in it is just abit heavy, though it goes alright and still only have a crap 2.5' muffler on it which i think is killing the top end.

that car has got to be the hottest gtr on the planet and everytime i see a vid of a gtr with a holinger box i want one (the box that is)

theres 2 options really when you get into it... ugly but modern/luxury or faster/better looking but not as luxury (but far from being a cheap import interior like you guys make out) m35's to me have a great interior and look very neat and luxurious but the outside is horrid and the 260rs has a great all round package except the audi style interior quality of the m35, but its still pretty decent anyway. I think u will find everyone is just gonna back the model they own in this argument unless they have both

i ran mine is 2wd with about 345rwhp and snapped an axle from a 2nd gear roll on, it wasnt even from a launch, the axles are pretty bad unless i just got a dud one, the size differences to gtr/260rs is huge, same with the uni joints as well. As i said with an engine build, the rb26 is the cheapest option i think from 25, 26 or 30 because u dont need an adaptor plate and can use stock rods for upto 500rwhp+. Throw a set of $1000 forgies in and some acl race series bearings, arp rod bolts and a decent oil pump and the motor will be fine for 500rwhp no problems, bolt on some low mounts for $2500 and it looks stock and goes like hell, plus u can reuse your oil and water lines and the exhuast all lines up. Clutch and fuel setup is obviously needed but thats needed with any combo. rb30 will need rods and pistons and adaptor plate for that sort of power, and a rb25 will need valve springs, etc i assume at that power level, so the smart combo is definately rb26 head atleast, and then decide which bottom end u want. Dont forget a built 26 is gonna sell alot easier than a built 25 combo so remember that when you want to sell it or buy a gtr and put it in because the stagea is too heavy

heres a PM i just sent to Darrin for anyone interested in the future... 260rs vs rs4.... I have compared the two but not out of the car as yet so measurements are hard to get exact, but the 260rs one is definately 45-50mm narrower overall. The arms on rs4 and 260rs are the same lengths, its actually the points just outside of the bolt up points for the cradle that are different widths bringing all the arm mounting spots out 25mm each side, while still allowing the bolt up holes for the cradle to the car stay the same. I havent checked myself but have been told the axles are just 32 gtr lengths too so nothing unique or hard to get hold of, i was told this from the guy i bought the cradle off as he used the autech axles in his car do complete a gtr rear end conversion in a r34 gt-t. The only downside to the autech cradle is its got hicas which just means i need a lockbar. The good point is the wheel fitment now allows a 9.5' +12 rim to sit the same as a 9" +30 (33 and 34 gtr rims) do on an rs4 which is spot on, and the fronts fit a 9.5' +12 perfect as they are so that means gtr offset wheels are available everywhere and lots to choose from. I have been told a 10' +20 (which is what i have ready to go on) will foul on the rear strut by about 6mm or so but a small spacer will fix that and still not make the wheel stick out too far. Also dont forget you will need fork end coilovers on the rear once u swap it over same as a gtr, unless you have already got them. heres a couple of pics of the cradle different width area highlighted in red... first pic is the rs4 and second pic is the 260rs. hope it helps mate, any other info or measurements just let me know and i can do it. cheers Brad I know for sure a r32 gtr cradle wont fit in a stagea as the bolt up points for the cradle to the body are different widths, so are u guys sure a s14 isnt the same as 32 gtr?

hey mate just make sure that spare rb25 u are gonna build up is from a stagea or it wont have the correct bolt pattern for the awd sump, only the stagea rb25s have both bolt patterns for 2wd and 4wd sumps, where as r33 gtst, etc only have the 2wd bolt pattern. You can get away with using the r33 rb25 but u will need a 4wd sump adaptor which is about $930 so best to just start with the correct block if you can. If your gonna bother building up a motor you might as well use a rb30 bottom end i reckon, these heavy cars need all the torque you can get, especially if you upgrade to a decent sized turbo setup. I run a 26/30 with a gt3076r are its great for cruising around, i can go around at 20kmh in 3rd gear without a problem, unlike the old 26 setup and t04z i had. If it was me i would just buy an autech personally. RS4 stageas have crap diffs, axles, rear cradle isnt good for decent wheel offsets and they are auto, plus brakes are tiny too, so by the time u upgrade to decent suspension, new engine, manual box, bigger brakes, swaybars and then diff, axles you could have an autech and its a hell of alot easier. Things add up soooo quick when doing upgrades you will get a big suprise. At the end of the day if your talking built engines etc then i wouldnt waste my time with a rs4 when there is something available with all the good bits in a factory package. I would like to know why an rb26 cost more to build and modify than a rb25? its actually cheaper, you can use stock rods and bolt on low mount turbos which saves alot of hassles, plus the added bonus of readily available second hand performance bits like injectors and clutches, etc. Rb25s and rb26s still have the same amount of pistons and rods Trust me ive been there and done that along time ago

my105.com

nismo lmgt2 18x10 +20 all round, yet to be fitted as i have to install the autech cradle to make them fit properly without scrubbing on rears. I have the cradle just need some time to put it in, the car currently runs 33 gtr rims and i think they look alright though fronts could do with a 20mm spacer to fill the gaurds, rears are perfect with normal rs4 cradle.

is this the new for sale section?

so on a gt3076r with a 0.82 rear, getting changed to a 1.06, will these effect the position of the turbo at all or will everything be a direct bolt on compared to the 0.82 housing? is the housing an unbolt, bolt on proposition or does it need to be done by a turbo shop? any idea what a rear housing is worth? and a v band one as well?

Hey Slaps what cams are you running now? i have same issue with power dropping off at 6000rpm with stock rb26 cams

i run the 3076r 0.82 (external gate version) on a freshened stock internal 26/30 (so lowish comp around 8:1 from memory), its making 18psi at roughly 2900rpm

my cams/andra approved 6 point CDS cage weighs around the 55kg mark when sent to me, it needed to be cut to the lengths etc so that would offset the weight of the welds, so around the 50-55kg mark and its got all the corner gussets etc, not too basic yet not extreme like some of them.

hey Darrin im not a fan of them, i think the 34 gtr wheels look better. I think gold on a blue car doesnt really go myself, i'd stick to something like a charcoal or gunmetal look with possibly some polished dish. I think you also need aggresive offsets or wheels that look good on gtr look terrible in flat offsets. A 10' +20 wont fit without scrubbing or a shitload of camber as i tried it the other day, though i just got hold of an autech cradle which is 25mm narrower each side so that means they will sit pretty much same as a 9 +30 rim which = perfect but not sticking out gaurds. the 10" +20 is perfect for the front also. Thats my thoughts, everyone always has there own opinion Some black centre meisters with polished dish would look awesome and classy/tough as the black is glossy. Or even some polished meisters would be hot too. work emotions cr kai in tough offsets also look the goods. So many options you just have to decide what u personally like

http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/enkei-r...43-p-24892.html these are very very light and top quality also, cheap as for 17x10, is around the $1600au mark delivered brand new. From memory they are 7.7kg each which is very light for that size, i think its lighter or the same as te37s.

sort of on the topic of the thread, but im wondering how on earth do i make the 3076r not as loud when spooling, its giving me the shits and sounds pretty annoying (that sounds only good on a 450rwkw setup not a 280rwkw one haha), its on an rb30 and its whistling its head off at under 2000rpm on normal acceleration when driving in traffic.

depends if your doing the engine assembly and engine removal install yourself. On parts alone and machine work i reckon for 5k you could do it if you have the head, clutch, and injectors sorted. engine is about 100 bucks, $1500 for machine work and freshen up with new bearings and cast aftermarket pistons (so u can bore it 20 thou to get rid of the usual rb30 lip on the bores), new seals, gaskets, tensioner, idler, timing belt, restrictors, etc etc, then u just have to source a turbo setup, modify the exhuast and buy an ecu. If you have to pay labour then i dont think its gonna happen unless u run the stock rb25 turbo on it for a while

easiest way to tell i reckon is look for the recessed area for the vacuum booster for the clutch, see if it looks factory (same as gtr's). Going by the pic it does look as per autech which is pretty hard to do unless u either have an autech lying around or a 32 gtr etc to cut the peice from. Though the pic is hard to see properly does it have hicas? measure the rear wheel base as wheel and get offset of the wheels and u can tell if its an autech cradle or not. i assume it has brembos? what about the autech brace under the trans tunnel?

+1 greg from pro engines sent mine over to perth and everything fitted up perfectly He was extremely helpful and does quick shipping as well, highly reccomended!!! http://www.proengines.com.au/

dont waste your money on stroker kits they are stupid expensive and the rb30 is better way to go unless you go the os giken 3L kit. I wish i went a RIPS rb30 and saved the money back when i built my jun 2.7l stroker motor. The stroker kit (just crank, rods and pistons) is worth as much as a complete built bottom end from RIPS which is complete and ready to go from what i can tell and is proven to hold over 1200hp. for your goals i would save alot of money and have a better setup using a rb30 and a t04z, it will be perfect for 430awkw and have decent response too.

the cage work looks great, i like the boxed front legs as well. I remember reading something about the intrusion bars had to be minimum 100mm up from the base plates on the front legs and hoop, is this true? or is it from the floor? or did i read wrong?

i have read around forums that 33 gtr rims are light and i bought some with tyres on so can only weigh them with tyres as well and they are the same weight as set of shit china rims i have with tyres, the china rims are only 17x8 and gtr are 17x9 but still its up around the 24kg mark with a 235 tyre on it.

mine didnt come with any pulley, except the bolt on one for the p/s pump that is on the front of the balancer

i ran an n1 water pump on my fairly modified rb26 in a stagea using the stock radiator that it come with (used to be rb25) and it was perfect in traffic and never ever ever got warm, i went in Motorvation local carshow and sat idle in traffic the supercruise with outside temps of 35 degrees + and it was perfect and other cars were cooking lol. I run an ATI 1000hp balancer which is very small compared to the stock one so it would be spinning even slower and still no issue.