r32drifter1

yeah i just realised you wiggled the plug to make it work. sounds more like you have damaged a plug or something.

yeah hes right the car wont start if the its on the wrong notch. i mean you adjust your timing by twisting the sensor left and right. i cant remember which way retards it and advances. but once you have the sensor on you have to make sure its on the same angle as before, you should be able to see where the 3 bolts which hold it on used to sit to show you what position it used to be in. your friend is talking about the little notch which stops you from putting the sensor back on the wrong teeth

i had troubles like this with my old 20, my CAS was faulty. but the most simple solution could just be you put it back on wrong, did you make sure it was in the exact same position it was on before?it doesnt need to be that far off for the car to run like shit

na i only got the other one like less that a week ago it just didnt do the symptoms till i was down the road because it had just been sprayed with throttle body cleaner(temporarily fixes it for some reason). so im just gonna go back and tell them they gave me a dodgy one. its the trouble with import stuff, sometimes it sits around for ages

i dont know if you all remember but i have been having all sorts of problems the last 2 weeks with my rb25. first up hunting issues ruff idle and not boosting properly. new air flow meter fixed these probs. except now it wouldnt rev from idle, hell spluttered and just didnt wannt go untill in boost then it run sweet. after new coil packs(i had some extras) spark plugs, new fuel pump, filter, new fuel tank and pick up pump i realised it just couldnt be fuel even tho blocking off the return line(cranking up the fuel pressure at idle) fixed the prob. what was stupid is that i didnt realise this was a new problem i didnt have before, it finally came to me that it might be a freak coincidence i got another faulty afm just with different faults. so i changed back to my other one and the diff problems came on. but it revved good etc just didnt idle very smooth! changed back, idled nice but would revv from idle Now my question, has anybody ever had this much of a problem with afm? is it quite common they stuff up?

its a direct import iv never touched any of that stuff, its more like a running out of fuel untill it hits revvs, tried playin around with the timing a bit. only made it worse. someone has just put it to me about an air reg might not be getting 12 volts cause it doesnt run off computer power?

i have had nothin but problems with my rb25 the last 2 weeks since i put it in. i have fixed all the hunting and running like shit on boost issues with a new afm. it still wont revv at all untill wared up, but i have been told thats just what the cold start islike on some of these 25s. anyway once its warmed up it wont revv at idle is misses and struggles then once its into boost or above about 3 grand it runs fine, drives well, only running 10 pound atm but no problems except the initial down low! to fix the problem you can completely clamp of the return fuel line. BUT i have a big fuel pump which i just replaced, its got fuel pressure, new fuel reg, all fuel lines are fine, new coil packs spark plugs everything lol! i dont think its fuel just somehow heaaps of fuel pressure fixes the problem. the thing is i dont really remember this prob before i replaced afm, you reckon it could be another faulty one? only other ideas is that its my comp or blocked injectors. does anyone know if an afm could cause these symtoms?

yeah sounds like a job for a tube of ultra blue gasket sealant!

i had a high flowed rb25 turbo on my old 20, it was pretty laggy compared to a standard rb20 but i still never looked back. when the boost came on it came on heaps harder, used to break traction increased my hp considerably. my car is manual so the lag issue never fased me too much tho. only thing that will maybe frustrate you is launches at the drags etc. i found that pretty tricky! put the highflow on!

yeah but if my fuel reg is dodgy since it controls the pressure by how much fuel it lets go back through the return(i think) wouldnt that mean it could be the cause of the idle pressure too. i have a bosch motor sport pump on and and the in tank lift pump is working too iv checked there are no kinks and in my fuel lines and my fuel pump is getting 11.7 volts. im going to try putting the fuel reg off my old 20 on it cause they are apparently the same so im really hoping it fixes my problems! if not im going to burn the car and start again

yeah im gonna try a different regulator on it. lol and i have a new fuel filter im gonna put on it too. and my fuel tank is dodgy for other reasons too so i have another one of them to put on too. hopefully one of these fixes it.

lol na mate you assumed wrong, but in saying that do you think it sounds like my fuel reg could be a bit dodgy? does anyone know for sure if 35psi is too low for fuel pressure? i have a bigger fuel pump in it and iv been told they need atleast above 40 at idle

well my car suns like shit down low and then runs out of fuel up high, clamping the return line to restrict fuel solves my problems, except obviously i cant just do this to fix it. i got it pressure tested and it had 35 psi, a friend of mine who has a similar set up said its way too low, on cold start it takes like 5 mins to get it started and then another 10 untill the car is warm enough to rev! what GeeTR said sounds alot like what i have been told. i have a feeling its something to do with the fuel tank because the car also runs out of fuel before it should( like a quarter). its in a VL cars too old lol. if 35 is fine its gotta be fuel reg, but the symptoms dont seem right i didnt think

or does anybody know what fuel pressure there rb25 runs?

can anybody tell me what fuel pressure an rb25 needs. got my car pressure tested and it only had 35 psi at the fuel reg. a mate of mine said they need atleast 45 then like 65 on boost. i have a big bosch pump so something else is the issue