brada31ke70

i have for sale 3 r32 gtr rims for sale, 16 by 8 + 32, tyres are not healthy will sell seperatly, $150 for 1, $250 for 2, $300 for 3. i live on the gold coast. also for sale is a kazz 1.5 way lsd, works so well, never spun one wheel, will not disapoint. $500 ring or text me on o4o4978589 if you are interested.

by the time you rebuild or replace a couple of rb20 gearboxes you would have paid for a strong rb25 gear box. you dont need to change the master cylinder and the slave cylinder will generally come with the gearbox, as old mate mentioned, an auto crossmember fits perfectly in a cefiro, your clutch will fit, make sure you get a push type gearbox out of a series one r33, just get some one to join the rear of your drive shaft with the front of a r33 front drive shaft, next is the speedo drive, nissan navara speedo drive tuned upside down with a r33 gear on it, not that hard really. factor in selling your rb20 gearbox when it is not smashed and the tow truck to pick you up after you are left stranded some where with a blown gear box and the answer is simple really,

ok, i am sold, will start looking for some straight away, thank you for that

right, i have a 26/30 and was just thinking about getting some adjustable cam gears as i noticed when i put the cam belt on the marks on the pulleys did not line up perfectly. has anyone else played around with this, did it make that much difference, what were the settings you ended up with, what is a good brand of adjustable cam wheels are good to use, i hear hks are not the best i am more interested in differences on the road rather than the dyno, any feed back will be greatly appreciated, thank you

i believe one cheap mod that makes a massive difference is solid bushes on the rear sub frame, tightens up the rear end and stops alot of roll.

before you buy a new speedo cable just make sure it is clipped in properly behind the instrument cluster, mine stopped working and it had just unclipped itself. as that other person mentioned it is quite easy to get to.

not being a engine builder, but after building a rb26/30 i will be the first to admit that some of my theories are not quite orthordox as mr uras knows after i suggested just starting a new engine even though i am sure that motor companies would not go through your process when starting every new engine assembled, better to be safe than sorry i guess. talking about filing rings, is this really necessary, surely the ring end gap would be detirmined by the piston to bore clearance, eg the bigger you make the bore the longer the distance around the cylinder the bigger the ring end gap? and wouldnt the manufacture of the pistons and the rings calculate this? and how accurate can someone be with a file? sorry to add questions into you thread jarrod 83, good luck with your build, its a great feeling when you finally drive it.

put the spark plugs in and start it, it will have oil pressure, probably just not regesting on your gauge, the pump cant have an air lock because it pumps air until it pumps oil, there is no one way valve before it gets to the oil pump so it must pump air everytime you start it until it starts pumping oil, if that makes sence.

the only problem with the n1 oil pump is the crank does not have enought surface to drive the gear on the pump, get the crank drive built up and there is no problem. how much power are you chasing, robby ward from rips knows all the tricks for building massive horse power rb 30s. also, run oil over the full mark on the dip stick, especially if you run a 26 dip stick. that rear oil drain jobbie jobbie thing must make it tight between the head and the fire wall, i only just managed to squezze the 26/30 in the cefiro as it was without having another 20 or so mm sticking out the back of the motor.

here is my 2 cents worth, go n1 oil pump with an oil restrictor and block the other oil gallery up, get the oil pump drive on the crank extended, not a crank collar, it cost about $120, i believe that the only reason these pumps fail is because there is not enough meat on the crank turning the oil pump gear. my rb30/26 has about 300kpa oil pressure at 1000rpm when warm. nissan motor sport are pretty smart and surely would not design something rubbish.

all you need is a navara speedo sender, the r33 speedo sender gear, mount the two together, make another cut in the navara speedo sender, works a treat. if thats too hard, use the navara whole unit but your speedo will be out by about 30ks at 1oo. the cefiro speedo cable will screw straight into the navara speedo sender, no need to modify the speedo cable

i planned to only re ring the standard pistons as well but most rb30s are around 20 years old and may have some wear and may need to be bored with over size pistons anyway, its also a good idea to have the crank looked at, so while they are there you should get the oil pump drive extended. it sort of snow balls once you start. i did all of the assemdling work myself, got mahale 1mm oversize pistons new bearings, crank got machined down .25, new nismo oil pump and gaskits and seals and it set me back around 4500, remember a cheap man builds his engine twice. good luck with the build,

why not use the navara speedo sender and mount the r33 speedo wheel on it, still use the cable?

that is strange you said your shifter had to move back, my 25 gear box shifter is actually infront of where the 20 shifter was and actually had to lengthen the drive shaft, it is behind a rb30 but am running a rb20 engine mounts. if you remove your intercooler hoses and tilt your motor back stightly it goes in easy.

yes, a 26/30 will clear the bonnet with rb20 or rb30 engine mounts. i am the same as you, dont have that much time to use the computer and it is much easier just to ask than going through all the threads. others cocks could have answered your question in the time that they wrote up their answer about looking in the sticky. ask as many questions as you want, it is how you learn and save time, those others probably only know the answers by studing forums rather than actually doing the work themselves, freedom of speech mother lickers. hahah, cant wait for the reply to that one. good luck with your build 4dr wannaslide.

some photos of the 30, nismo turbos, probably a little small, boost comes in a around 2300 and full boost at about 3200, motor is going well, have not got it tuned yet, heaps more torque than the 26, on one of the photos you can see one of my home made sump extentions, now takes around 7 litres of oil. Attached thumbnail(s) Reduced 77% 640 x 480 (139.51K)// Reduced 77% 640 x 480 (128.12K)// Reduced 77% 640 x 480 (147.08K)// Reduced 77% 640 x 480 (103.16K)// Reduced 95% 2632 x 1808 (747.07K)//

some photos of the 30, nismo turbos, probably a little small, boost comes in a around 2300 and full boost at about 3200, motor is going well, have not got it tuned yet, heaps more torque than the 26, on one of the photos you can see one of my home made sump extentions, now takes around 7 litres of oil.

z145a

sorry about not replying to you, have not been on s.a that much lately. right, wiring, ok what i did was label all of the wires which came out of the old ecu and went into the car loom (not into the motor) and then removed the motor out of the half cut and did the same with all of the wires coming out of the 26 ecu and into the half cut, i knew what these wires did by working through a pin out diagram, installed the motor and brought all of the wires from the motor into where the ecu is and pluged everything in, all of the wires i had left over were now labeled and i just joined the wires from the ecu to the wires coming out of the car loom, eg cable coming from ecu labled tacho goes to cable labled tacho goining into the car loom. just take your time and label everything and it is actually not as hard as it seems, one wire at a time. blew up the 26 on a silly track day just before we had a baby daughter, so have not been spending too much time on the car, but today i got the 26/30 in and runnig! holly F**k i am happy, put it together myself, 25 gear box now, runs sweet as after a few teething problems, cant wait to run it in and wind some boost into it and get it tunned , yes sir. good luck with your build and dont give up, it will eventally get there as long as you keep working on it, and it feels so good to finally drive it down the road, any other issues, i am happy to help, i dont know everything but what a do know i am happy to share,

ah yes, finally got the 26/30 in the cefiro and going, cant believe it actually goes, got 1mm over sized mahale pistons, reconditioned head and assembled it all myself, first engine i have done as i am a sparkie, nervous as fu*k turning the key for the first time, started up after about 3 seconds on the starter motor, ran on 5, one of the injector plugs was loose, easy fix, went for a skid up the road, ran sweet, celebrating now drinking beers and johnny walker, a 26/30 fits in a cefiro by f**k all, just able to shut the bonnet, misses the clutch master cylinder by about 8mm and exhaust misses the fire wall by about nothing when lowering the motor in, 25 box runs sweet as well. anyone out there contemplating weather or not to do it my advice is just do it, cant wait to run it in and wind a bit more boost into it, yes sir.

too many cefiros are sitting on jacks not going, people, mine also, put the head on the 30/26 today, not far away now, yes sir, been spending a far bit of time with my new born, alot more important than the car at the moment.

what sort of single do you have? i have a os tripple which is quite heavy to use and may be looking at a swap if your keen.

thank you mr 200 for the torque settings of the rb30 bottom end, you are a champion. i am not a dumb shit though, i dont spend alot of time on sa and didnt realise it had crashed. it is an excellent site for getting information. thank you thank you yes sir, thank you.

who is the cock sucker who edits the posts on this thread? i looked up on monday and there was about 5 replies, now there is only 2, some guy had written up a massive informative post which is now not there, what the fu*k is going on? for the people whos posts that have not been deleted, i thank you for your input. i would like to know the torque settings of the conrod bolts by the weekend if anyone has them, cheers

could someone please give me the torque setting of 1. the craddle which holds the crank in, i did mine at 40 lb/in is this ok 2. the head, i read some where around 100 lb/in 3. the bolts which hold the con rods to the crank, i read in the 26 workshop manual 14 lb/in and then 60 to 65 degrees with an angle wrench, and i dont have an angle wrench. 4. and anything else that is important thank you.