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Everything posted by OoskylineoO
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[syd] '97 R33 375kw Black 2dr
OoskylineoO replied to OoskylineoO's topic in For Sale (Private Whole cars only)
Thanks Sklyn, I am negotiable, but as mentioned, more into a swap at this stage. Also interested in a family sized SUV / Ute (preferably 4x4) -
[syd] '97 R33 375kw Black 2dr
OoskylineoO replied to OoskylineoO's topic in For Sale (Private Whole cars only)
Thanks RB25PWR, Well I guess if I had to put a price tag on it.. $25Kono -
Hi, Vehicle is a 97 R33 GTS-4 Series 2, quite rare of a vehicle without many manufactured, basically a GTST body with GTR running gear equipped with ATTESA system, regularly serviced with all synthetic lubes from diffs to engine. Always parked under shelter and interior kept clean. Here's a short list of major engine mods carried out: 375rwkw on 20psi BP98 pump (you read correct, RWKW, it was dynoed and tuned in RWD mode, front d/shaft disconnected while it was getting built) RB25 S2 Block (Standard) RB25 NEO head Full recoed Permaseal MLSR metal head gasket 1.3mm ARP head studs Tomei 256 drop ins Tomei Exhaust cam gear K&N 4'' Pod w/ Custom made airbox by Toys Garage Garrett GTX3582R 0.82a/r VBand exhaust side GCG Highmount manifold (Black Ceramic Coated) 45mm Turbosmart hypergate Greddy plenum (Genuine, the real deal) Deatschwerks 740cc injectors (E85 compatible) Deatschwerks 300LPH fuel pump (E85 Compatible) Splitfire coilpacks Nismo fuel reg New Nissan coil pack loom Aluminium 52mm Dual core Radiator FMIC + All piping custom fabricated, all perfect welds Greddy Oil Catch can Engine Mounts replaced with OEM Nissan ones Work + Tune performed by JEM And yes that is a SHORT list, packed with many more goodies including suspension work. Looking to SWAP for either an R33 (Series 3 preferably) GTR / R34 GTR, or anything else of same / similar power level with cash adjustments going appropriate direction. As per forum rules, please PM me if you want further details.
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Hey guys, Have a Nismo R33 LCD 240km/h Dash Cluster I want to get rid of, extremely rare piece of item, any true Skyline enthusiast will know the absolute rarity and value of this item. Only removed as it didn't have an oil pressure gauge, I wanted to start keeping an eye on my engine oil pressure but couldn't be stuffed wiring and fitting up an a/m gauge so I put stock cluster back in. Came out of my R33 Gtst, does not come with EPSON software to display engine monitors, but I'm sure you would be able to hook up another system/software up to the screen, eg. HKS CAMP, etc. LCD screen does work, I've actually plugged an AV cable directly into the dash and LCD monitor works brilliantly. NOTE: There are a couple of marks on the LCD monitor if observed closely Tachometer/RPM dial works intermittently (quoted ~$100-150 to repair) $450 Located Sydney. Will post free, except WA/NT Also have a spare R33 series 1 manual cluster I kept as a spare, has a few problems though, tacho does not work, oil pres. is incorrect and there is a small crack on one of the edges (but doesn't affect anything). $30 PM for any further details, thanks!
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4blt set ups are discontinued now, there is no performance differences between a 4blt vs Vband..Vband is there for easier fitment/removal.
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If your engine oil pressure exceeds 65psi at mid-high RPM range than use a 1mm restrictor. If you don't experience those oil pressures then you wouldn't necessarily require one.
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Boost Issue ? Wont Go Over 0.5 Bar ?
OoskylineoO replied to BLITZ-26's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
I wouldn't start pointing the finger at the turbo..well just yet at least, sounds more like a incorrect signal connection somewhere (vacuum lines). Try this (will give you an answer straight up), hook up an aftermarket boost gauge, disconnect your vac line going towards you're actuator completely, go for a spin, put your foot down and KEEP YOUR EYE ON THE BOOST GAUGE and back off straight away if it passes 7psi to prevent blowing the turbo!!!!, if it boosts past 0.5bar(7psi), then you have a faulty boost controller!, if it still won't boost past 0.5bar with vac line disconnected, then you have some serious exhaust back pressure issue, possibly blocked cat, or you may have a leak somewhere in the system i.e, cracked pipes, blown gaskets, damaged intercooler, etc. -
Rb26, -5 Turbos, Boost Creep - Common?
OoskylineoO replied to black bnr32's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
^ +1 on dump set up. Actuators will not be the cause for boost creep, you get boost creep (generally at higher RPMs) because the flow of exhaust gas entering the turbine housing can not physically exit quick enough for whatever reason, i.e, turbine housing too small/restrictive, wastegate outlet port too small/restrictive, bad dump pipes or tune. I would be looking into the tune or dump pipes, had a mate with similar issues on his XR6 where he tried everything to fix the boost creep, turns out he overlooked the dump pipe, even with the larger port and flapper upgrade, the problem was a poorly designed dump pipe causing it, WG flap could only travel a short distance before it hit the divider. Changed his dump and fixed his problem straight up. -
Rb25 Turbo Upgrade, All Dyno Results
OoskylineoO replied to Nacho Vidal's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
^ nice results.. Haven't seen a lot of guys running GTX35 units on RB25s, I did and heres some results. R33 GTST (Main mods) Stock standard RB25 (r33) bottom end Recoed RB25 NEO head w/ 256 poncams Greddy Profec B s2 Greddy plenum Deatschwerks 740cc drop in injectors Deatschwerks 300LPH fuel pump Splitfire coilpacks Nismo fuel reg FMIC GTX3582R 0.82a/r 45mm Turbosmart hypergate GCG Highmount manifold Permaseal metal head gasket 1.3mm Haltech plat/pro plug in 3'' exhaust Tomei exhaust cam gear All work done @ JEM also. 375.8RWKW @ 20psi on BP98 ultimate. -
Couple more spare bits and peices I wanna get rid of, located Sydney. --------------------- GREDDY INFORMETER TOUCH - Practically still new, only used for about 5months. Was on a R33 s2 (stock ecu), literally plug and play, plugs into consult port under driver side dash and gets it power source there as well. Found it an extremely useful tool to monitor engine activities, only removed due to upgrading to haltech ecu which was not compatible. $450ONO (Will ship Free Aus wide) link to part for more info and some pics: http://greddy.com/pr...formeter-TOUCH/ R34 GTT / R33 S2 PINK LABEL AIR FLOW METER - Bought off another forum member from here, was apparently off an R34 GTT that was being wrecked wit ~70,000kms on the clock, I've put on ~6000kms before upgrading to a Z32, was in perfect wokring condition, only removed due to upgrade. $80 R34 GTT / R33 S2 PINK LABEL AIR FLOW METER - Another pink label air flow meter I bought as a spare off a wrecker for $150, still looks in neat prestine condition, only problem is....while I was undoing with million layers of bubble wrap it came in, I became impatient and started tearing it apart accidentally snapping off a piece of the mounting side lols, good thing is, broke off in one INTACT peice and still fits back on like a piece of jigsaw puzzle, seems like a bit of super glue would do the trick ....going cheap (SEE PICS) - $45 Thanks guys.
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PMs replied. FUEL PUMP SOLD.. NEW PART ADDED: GREDDY INFORMETER TOUCH - $450 posted anywhere in AUS, practically still new, only used for about 5months. Was on a R33 s2 (stock ecu), literally plug and play, plugs into consult port under driver side dash and gets it power source there as well. Useful unit to monitor engine activities, only removed due to upgrading to haltech ecu which was not compatible. link to part: http://greddy.com/products/electronics/informeter/filter:make:Informeter-TOUCH/
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Hey guys, Just a few bits I have laying around with no use. Genuine Z32 AFM done only about 5000kms - $250 (no plug) Genuine Walbro 255lph suit Nissans done about 7000kms - $50 R33 S2 ECU w/ Nistune installed, done by Toshi on forums - $400 Stock 370cc RB25 Side feed Injectors (x6) - $50 R33 S2 Crank angle sensor (silver type) - $100 All parts removed only due to upgrade, all on running vehicle when removed, Located in Sydney. Can post if need be. Reason why I didn't post pics is because they're all in top nick with no damages, nothing to see lols.
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+1 No point going larger exhaust if you've got a poorly designed manifold creating high back pressure. In this instance, running the gate straight off the manifold pressure should bring response up and keep pressure lower, as majority of the time this point is where exhaust back pressure would build up first.