Tristan21

I have six spare coils if needed, good condition.

Its probably a combination of both to be honest. I also beleive the regulator assembly is stuffed as the spring dosent hold the metallic plate over the gap fully, allowing air to enter on idle. I have ordered a new valve from Nissan and will check the throttle cable and valve gaskets.

I took mine out and gave it a clean however I noticed that the spring was not holding the bimetallic plate on fully, allowing air to escape on idle (causing idle to stay around 1500-2000 depending on temp) I got a quote from Nissan, $276.95 for a new valve. I will give this a go and report back. Hopefully the idle will drop back down to normal.

I thought the problem may have existed prior to the AAC Valve becoming dirty and that cleaning it improved air flow allowing a leak to cause high idle, thats why I was checking other parts. The AAC Valve was in good condition and the spring was tight, the only other thing I can think of is that the gasket may need replacing, could this cause high idle? I havent removed any other plugs or hoses without replacing them, however i dont know what the air reg looks like or where is it located.

RB20DET After cleaning and re-installing the AAC Valve, the idle now sits at 1400rpm, higher when cold. Before cleaning the valve, the idle was 800-900rpm. I have spent days reading through posts and trying to find a solution. So far I have tried... 1. Adjusting idle screw (turned all the way in) 2. Reset ECU 3. Removed and cleaned IAC Valve 4. Re-gapped spark plugs to 0.8mm 5. Insulated coil packs with silicone 6. Checked all lines and connectors After cleaning the IAC Valve last night, this morning the car was idling at 2000rpm all the way to work. It finally dropped after driving for 20 mins to 1600rpm. I noticed the spring inside was not fully closing the valve, obviously allowing some air to enter on idle. I presume this may contribute to the problem. The only other problems I can think of is; 1. Gasket on AAC valve is faulty 2. Vac leak in or around plenum/manifold 3. Faulty TPS I thought I might try adjusting the CAS but I wanted to post here first to see if anybody might be able to pinpoint the problem. Any help would be appreciated, cheers.

I pulled out the AAC Valve and cleaned it however when re-installed, the idle now sits at 1400rpm. I have spent days reading through posts and trying different things. So far I have.. 1. Cleaned the IAC Valve 2.

1. Shell 2. Pat 3. Rossco 4. Frink 5. Tristan

Spotted a grey R34 on Athlon Drive heading towards Woden past Marist College yesterday afternoon. He gave a wave, but I was changing gears with a smoke so didnt get a chance, sorry mate.

Viper or Mongoose. Get a GPS tracker while your at it They are only about $400 these days

I have used Fast & Furious for all my mechanical repairs and upgrades. I would highly recommend them, he knows his stuff and charges very little for labour.

Was followed by a white R33 past the airport this morning

I've been off the road for the last 2 years but the car is finally registered (anyone needs easy rego, I found a great mechanic). Happy to bring out the R32 for show and shine. Probably no point on the dyno, most of the mods are drivetrain/clutch upgrades. Be a good chance to meet some of you.

Spotted a white R32 with a black bonnet at Hindmarsh Drive Woden today around lunch

Spotted a black R33 GTR down Townshend St. Phillip.

pics?

will these fit an R32?

Well I have changed the gear oil to a synthetic, seems a little better but still not perfect. Any idea how much a 2nd hand gearbox will go for? I also had the clutch replaced, shudder is now gone. Thanks guys

PM me if they dont sell, I will take em off your hands

Thanks mate

Agreed

Hi All, Hoping I could get some advice. I have checked the forums and kind find anything relevant to my situation. Last night I absolutely thrashed my R32 gts-t for about 15-20 minutes. My younger brother then gave it a go and revved out 1st gear many times. This morning, driving to work I noticed the following problems. 1. 1st - 2nd gear change grinds if done quickly. Difficult to put it in if done slowly. 2. slight shudder when pulling away in 1st (slowly). I tested it again at lunchtime, the shudder seems to have dissapeared, however the 1st-2nd problem is still there. I doubt the gear oil has been changed in a while so I have it booked in tomorrow. If this does not alleviate the problem then I assume the syncro between these gears will need to be adjusted. Any suggestions/advice? Thankyou

I have a few, tyres probably 50%

keep seeing a maroon R32 around sternberg cres/bugden ave followed it home to macarthur today, I was in the silver r32 anyone here?

silver 33 GTR on Kent street around 3:30pm today, very nice

yeah would be a while ago, unless there is another identical to yours