d-ranged

Thanks for the reply. Im not sure if they were running a resistor pack, think it was HKS 600cc injectors they had. I have changed the dead times in the ecu and managed to get it to idle OKish Plenum vac lines all look good. No, i dont currently have lambdas but have a wideband to go on but cant use that until my exhaust gets it v-band flange welded on so i can bolt it to the downpipe.

So I have finally finished my single turbo install, everything is all plumbed in and i was looking forward to starting the car and hearing it properly. I turned the car on, the revs went up then dropped and the engine spluttered and cut out. I have had the car running previous to this with the single turbo (to make sure it was all ok, not driven) and it seemed to run fine but i have just recently taken the plenum off to remove some water lines and put it back on and also fitted a catch tank. If i hold the throttle open it will run, although a bit lumpy and seems that its over fueling alot as its burning my eyes! Once its warmed up a bit it seems to stay on for a little while but start spluttering more and more till it cuts out again If i pull the map sensor pipe out of its mounting hole (where the old PCV valve was) then the car seems to start idling fine, although a little high. If i put my finger on the hole the map sensor pipe goes into you can feel a strong vacuum and that brings down the revs to a normalish range (around 1k). The thing with the blue port is where the map sensor plugs into and it screws into that hole What is weird is that the car is running without the map sensor pipe plumbed in and a lot better than with it plugged in too!!! A little run down on the plenum refit - I bought new metal gaskets and sprayed them with hylomar. Also sprayed the plenum and throttle body faces with it for some extra sealing. I cant really hear any air leaks but the car is very loud and in the garage. I am running a Link G4 ECU currently with the map that came with it when i bought it from someone on here. He was running 600cc or 800cc injectors, not sure which. I am running standard injectors and i have not yet changed the settings on the Link to them so i know that could have something to do with the bad running but would it make the engine splutter and cut out? I haven't tried spraying the inlets with wd40 yet as it got to late and there are babies next door so didn't want to wake them. Anyone else have any suggestions? I have checked under the plenum and everything is 100% plumbed in. *EDIT* So i plumbed the map sensor back in and changed the dead time settings at 14v as that is what the ECU reads at idle, to what the default map that comes with the Link and it still didn't like it. I had to increase the latency from 9.5 to 1.10 for 14v and the car seems to idle OKish, although the revs keep going up and down every now and then around 200rpm and feels quite lumpy. I tried using the base map that comes with the Link and the car wont even start! The IAT sensor is reading 100c when i do that and is showing red. I tried messing about with some settings but couldnt get it working so i have to stick to the map that came with my Link at the moment. I am not able to drive the car yet as i still need to bolt the bumper back on and put the clutch slave cylinder back on so dont know how its going to behave with some load through the engine. Also, i forgot to mention - I don't currently have my wideband (and dont have lambdas) hooked up as i need to get my exhaust flange welded on as the wideband goes in that so the ECU is not getting any wideband readings, the map that came with the Link was setup to read the Wideband sensor that i got with it (PLX Wideband), could this be causing rough idle too? I had thought that you can run without lambdas or a wideband as you can unplug the standard ones with standard ecu and the car still runs? This is a link to the map I am currently using, if anyone could have a look at it and make some changes if they see anything to get me running a bit better till i can get the exhaust and wideband sorted that would be great. The previous car the Link was in had 600cc injectors and larger cams and a few other bits too, plus was still running twins. Anyone looking for a map to get your car running then feel free to use this and do what you like with it, as I said, I cant get my car started with the base map! - Download Map that came with ECU adjusted dead times.pcl from Sendspace.com - send big files the easy way My current setup - Precision 6266 Dual Ball Bearing Turbo 6 Boost Manifold Twin Tial 38mm Wastegates Stock Cams Stock Injectors (Will be ordering some 1000cc next month) Using built in Map sensor on Link

So you have nothing at all? No AAC or Cold Start Valve? Does your car idle OK? Did you have to do anything different with the Link settings? Do you have any pics???

Could you explain that in lamen terms? Like, which pipe goes to where etc? I am literally a n00b when it comes to all this and am learning as I go. I was going to use the balance tubes for clutch and brake booster. Do i need to use one for the cold start? Really appreciate the help mate

I was planning on keeping the cold start valve, just need to know where to plumb it in. I just want to get rid of the AAC valve to clean some room as i wont need it anymore, it shouldnt cause any issues not having that right? I dont have A/C anymore and i thought not having it means you need a few more revs on cold start to keep it running?

Thanks mate, I did do a search but couldnt find what i was looking for, that is perfect for the booster lines, cheers Just need to know about the water lines, just loop them i guess? Also what can be done with the square black box? One pipe goes into the bottom of the plenum but what about the other side closest to the front of the car, the one in between the two circles in my pic.

There must be someone that can tell me how to do this? You guys are way ahead of us in terms of messing about with these engines than we are in the UK! I'm getting desperate now as just want to get the car back together and running. Any help is greatly appreciated.

With the AAC gone they wont be there anymore and i want to clear some space under the plenum. I am fitting a single turbo and have a Link G4 so it will run without it, also i dont have A/C so the AAC is not needed.

Has anyone done this and took pics of what they did with the water pipes and boost pipes? Or is there a guide anywhere? What did you do for the clutch master cylinder booster and the brake servo booster pipes? What do you do with the water lines? This is how my car is looking now, can i use the two circled lines for brake and clutch booster? http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e327/RaGeuk2k6/73252c41-9902-48ae-aed6-64cc2e3d6c88_zpsfe1a4f66.jpg

yeah, i've already ordered them they were £139 for two.

I have managed to source some in the UK. They are expensive though! £££!!!! Going to have to just cut my loses and go ahead with getting them and a stainless set.

That is an idea, but would prefer it to be bolted or v-band. Even a 2 bolt flange would do me or a 4 bolt as long as i can get a stainless one too! The guys who fabricated my downpipe built it on their R33 as they are quite far away from me, i sent them my turbo and manifold and they bolted it up to their car and did the work. They made the downpipe a bit longer just in case as they didnt have my exhaust. I think there is enough on there to cut the 3.5" section off my Ti exhaust and still get it bolted up...

I dont actually have a flange on the downpipe i was going to get a stainless steel 2 bolt flange made up and get that welded to the downpipe but then when i went to get a drawing of my exhaust flange made up i saw it was actually a 3.5" flange which expands into 4" My exhaust is a custom made in japan job as well from an Auto Select car.

Interesting idea but the problem is i have to take it to a shop to do it and not sure if they would do something like that or not...

Dont think you can weld stainless to titanium...

Can anyone get hold of one of these. I am in the UK and cant find anyone that does them! I need it to fit to my titanium exhaust as I have just fitted a single turbo and had a 4" downpipe made up thinking my exhaust was 4" all the way through but it expands to 4" from 3.5" Any help would be massively appreciated as i am now stuck with a car I cant use

Has anyone got one? I am in the UK and cant find one anywhere!!!!!

Anyone got one that can deliver to UK, could also do with a pair of wastegates too.

Has anyone got one that is willing to deliver to the UK?

I am just in the middle of installing some new coilovers to my R32 GTR They are Meister R coilovers this is the bottom bush. I am not sure what way the longer part of the bush should be facing, towards the back of the car or the front???

Niceone mate, ive posted a thread on skylineowners.com with a link to this thread

Niceone cheers mate will have a look at try it out in the next few days

Well im in the UK so its always pretty cold lol especially in November. I took it out on Sunday night to sort the boost controller out and it was damn cold then and foggy to. The max duty we saw was 92% at 0.86 bar peak at 5-6k rpm in 4th gear.

Really good mate, never felt the car as powerful as that before and was only getting between 22-30 knock, injector duty was hitting around 92% though and I have been told this is quite bad??

My mods are: Straight through exhaust FMIC Walbro 255 Fuel Pump Apexi Induction Kit Boost set at 0.85bar Standard turbo My e-mail is [email protected]. I have been getting high injector duty (around 92%) at higher revs in 4th and 5th gear is that anything to worry about? Thanks mate