cazman

Location is adelaide. Hey Jarrod, do you have some rooted R32 GTR rear coilovers? Or some ULTRA short R33 items. Any brand, im only after the lower mounting bracket and the threaded section Cheers Dave

1. Starts 1/10/09 Ends 7/10/09 (I have one customer waiting for a set, so I can drag this out any longer) Parts would be ready 4 weeks after the final Deposit has been made to myself. A $20 Deposit is required BEFORE 7/10/09 or you will not be able to purchase a set. These are a ONE OFF BUY The remaining costs can be paid upon comletion of the parts manufacture. 2. These are replacement bushes for the Rear lower control arms. A set of 8 Split bushes, Ie enough to do one car. They will incude a Stainless crush tube in the kits. They are made from spun Derlin. The advantages are a 0 binding bush (not much binding in this arm to start with though) As well as being stiffer than any rubber or Poly bush could ever be. Derlin is almost as stiff as an Aluminum bush, but Derlin is a carbon impregnated material. This means its self lubricating (to an extent). It also allows for better tolerances than aluminum. This is the only bush in your nissan that you can make ou of derlin as the arm pivots on 1 axis only, it rotates only, it doesnt have to pivot. 3. I predict these will cost $120 a kit. The price will not go up (or cheaper) 4. The company is Cazman Industries 5. Pick up in Metro SA or freighted for $10 a set 6. As above 7. The finished product will look similar to this, although in different dimensions to suit your car. Basically I have pre sold 3 or so sets to fellow NS members, but I need to make up the numbers for the minimum order. Regardless of numbers I will be placing the order. If I only order say 2 sets cost doubles. So the more people can get in the better the cost to you. The other problem is they are model specific, and some of your cars may have had your subframes and arms changed without your knowing. I would STRONGLY suggest measuring the width of your subframe tabs. The 3 main different ones available are S13, R32, 300zx S14, R33 S15, R34 Please measure and specify which ones you are after.

Im in SA, willing to buy a carton or similar for a set of 4 shocks and springs. Even if you just have stock springs. Free is better too.... PM me ASAP Thanks Dave

Ive got some new 315s $175 ea.... Or I have a pair of mismatched 265s for $70pr

Just letting you know, they are the FAKE kind of RCAs. They move the arm down but not the pivot point. You need to use a longer shaft to move the pivot down, or you arent actually doing anything. There are milliions of threads around the world on this, and there are a few on Moonface ones, and customers getting ripped off

Grease rod ends are BAD. They are fine industrial rod ends only. You never use them on a car unless they have OEM style boots (which they never do in a Spherical bearing) The ones SPL use are the ones I linked earlier. They are a QA1 Xm or endura rod end. They have been proven to get 3 years out of them in a street S13 They are a nylon lined bearings. Teflon punches out (or chunks out) But teflon is still popular. These are fine to be used in dirt applications Gary. The idea with rod ends is the tolerence between the liner and the race is so tight, that dirt molecules cant get inside the liner, so it cant wear. Almost all off road buggys DO NOT use dust boots. Videos are here http://images.google.com.au/imgres?imgurl=...sa%3DG%26um%3D1

Theyre not called red/yellow anymore, havent been for years. They are also fairly terrible, read a few more reviews if you need confirmation, Also the Konis are not easy to rebuild. Not bya long shot. not here or in the USA. At least the bilstein you "could" rebuild yourself if you set out to do it. But you CANT rebuild konis.

To answer the question accuratly. Yes. Each and every art of both the rear ends is different, but most parts are compatible. The shafts, uprights and hubs are different. You use GTR uprights, and use your stock gtst hubs and axles, as the axles suit whatever hub you use. The lower control arm is the same, but you need this little spacer thing, and this may be hard to find, its usually easier to buy a pair of GTR lower control arms. The alloy hub has a bigger ball joint hole, so you NEED this spacer bit. Obviously you need GTR coilovers. Ask nisskid, he did this conversion 4 months ago

Bilstien are only $295 per corner. You CANT buy any other mono tube for that coin. Dont waste time, but the bilsteins

or adjustable arms if your after alot more caster dialed in

Only in a GTR

Only in a GTR

The rubber is bonded to the shock in most cases Tein use a pressed bush. Bilstein use a slight rubber bond, and a much larger bush size fron stock. Simply, its not that easy, Unless you can measure your stock shock eye and then matching up a urethane bush is still hard, as the factory bonded crush tube is tapered.

How can worn bushes effect droop travel? if anything they would help droop travel. Swaybars give you less droop travel. In Europe they run their race BMWs with no rear swaybars and really long shocks as they cant run LSDs. This is the only way they can manage traction and not lift wheels everywhere.

You need the last one, the 14mm one

Drifting. Sald, simon M, most of the serious guys have cracked frames. its not a matter of how, but when. If your doing serious track work, your just biding time till it happens

Good luck. You need a high misalignment bearing, which is weaker than a standard rode end. The taper spacer youll need will need to be 4140 chromeolly and heat treated also, the taper part costs the most. The turnbuckle is the easy part at least. Budget at least $300 for a 1 off set. Or $159USD for a USA set, and then add a new turnbuckle and spacer

Superpro sell these off the shelf. They are easy to buy.

Edit, Double post

They are both relative. But I did look for yield or shear, and they arent listed. I shot an email off to QA1, I guess Ill wait for the reply. You right sorry, I did jump the Gun a bit there. Let me start of with this, I haven't knocked any product Sorry, I did jump the gun, I was just offended of the one sided opinion that bushes are better than rose joints. It would be a case by case thing, and the its up to the customer to decide whether the product is suitable for their car. There are Pros and cons for both types, but most people seem to require the greater adjustment. The product itself might well be OK and not fail, what I have simply pointed out is the maintenance issues with any spherical bearing and more importantly the alignment difficulty involved in using infinitely adjustable suspension arms. I dont agree with this statement, if a product is infinitely adjustable then they can bring them back to stock spec or within a eccentric bushes alignment range. Just because they are infinity adjustable doesnt mean you should adjust them that much. You can install a camber, toe, caster rod or heck ANY rose jointed arm into a car, set them to the FACTORY length, and have no alignment down sides. You will have removed alot of play and stiction (binding) As far as your alignment is concerned, you havent gone backwards. As for Caster rods, its hard to stuff that one up, camber front and rear, well thats dependent on tyres and roll centre, but still, that isnt rocket science. Its really only roll centres and traction rod length where someone might make a mistake, and get it all wrong. I know that sphreical bearings dont last as long as bushings, but most people are aware of this. The problem with the market is everyone sells dispoable arms, and ones that break. What we set our to acheive was a set that can be rebuild, cheaply when needed, and by anyone, not just our company. We didnt use any of the design flaws that plauge the market. Simple cost cutting measures that make for a weaker arm. Then cop the complaints when you tell them how much it costs to fix the problems. Or when the chassis and/or subframe cracks because there is no cushion in the joints to absorb the impacts Stewy bent/snapped a factory subframe using whiteline bushed items. I'm sure cause was stiction more than anything else. It is common for S/R series subframes to crack etc, even FACTORY supras do it, the frame cracks in 2, I can grab pictures if you like. But I do agree, rose joints wont "help" this problem as such, but it is one thing to take into account. Whether I spend $20 or $200 on a spherical bearing the fact is they aren't suitable for an application where there is no maintenance schedule Most import owners keep their cars maintained well, and it should be a given that they check their rod ends every 5000kms. Its also a simple DIY replacement, and as long as you measure the before and after install, no re-alignment is needed. But I do 100% agree with you, rose joints dont suit every car out there. We arent marketing these for every car, and if some one wants a superpro bushed version instead of a rose joint, they can have it. My estimated cost is only $30 more per pair of arms. I'm totally over telling guys that it's going to cost more than the product costs to align it after they have fitted it. Same as above, why dont you just align it to your usual bush specs? then you wont have this issue. Once again I am only talking caster/traction/toe/camber Not RCA or squat. Sorry Gary, i understand you have a wealth of racing knowledge, but these guys have taken the time to plot bumpsteer graphs, dynamic camber graphs and so on, and also to measure stiction increases. They are basically nissan experts.

Poly bushes that rotate on 2 axis' will bind, no matter how you spin your words. On the rear lower control arm that only rotates on 1 axis, it is fine to put poly bushes etc in there. On every other bush in a say R32 skyline, rotates on 2x axis'. not only does the wheel go up and down, it goes backwards and forwards (as you have written and know, as its called bump steer) This means the ANY poly bush or rubber will bind. Please gary do some research on the S/R chassis rear end. Even from standard the rear end binds up. Then add to the mix that your changing the length of the arms, your stiction actually gets worse. If any one has 5 hours to read up on it, please Click here or Here These are Silvia related threads, with more know how than most of Australia. There are many bump steer graphs included too. Gary I am trying to educate people here, and not just convince them to buy X parts because X group buy is on. There are many pros and cons of doing both bushes and rose jointed setups. The main thing i want to get across is that many products on the market are inferior, weaker, and dont do the job they say they will. Here is a very well known brand that broke within 1 day, and its rusting on the threads already now. Please PM me for more details on how mine fixes this issue as well as others Thats not what I meant sorry. The strength of our products is fine, we can have a set tested if you would like some raw data. What I meant was with or without dust boots, there is no data. What we would like to do is run 1 side of the car with no boot, and one side with a boot. Then 6 months later soo which one wore more. I will replace your rod ends free of charge if you find that one wore more than the other. I would require you to keep track and document all climate changes also. The bearing itself wearing out the liner CANNOT cause it to fail, and especially not like the picture aboive, as we use a NON welded unit, and a 4140 chromeolly item too. The price is $60 more with QA1 bearings instead. These are the Endura rod ends, which are their flagship range and most suited to street use, its all in the liner of the bearing. All threads and sizes are the same. Everyhting. Freight might also be slightly higher as I am not stocking QA1 atm, due to the raw cost of them. So all up your looking at $240+$20 freight I'd say. As for strength again, we use a 5/8 thread 4140 chromeolly rod end we use has a Ult. Radial Static Load Capicity of over 20 000 pounds. The thread diameter is 15.87mm, as an example: Whiteline use a 14mm jack screw, this is a simple 8.8 grade bolt. A well known Chinese brand uses a 13mm rod welded onto a carrier that contains a bearing. These are NON high tensile rod and its welded right next to the moment. This is a recipe for disaster, and it has happened many times before. All ready off the bat its obvious that the cross sectional area of a 5/8 item is stronger than a 14mm item. It works out to much much stronger in the end. The U bracket We use a 10.9 cap bolt, which is even higher again. <h2 style="margin-bottom: -1px;"> </h2>

The problem with bushes is they bind up, as in the suspension arm is forcing against them and makes the suspension hard to move. This is the opposite of what you want in your car. 1 Example and source here

They are extrememley replaceable. We have fixed a few *insert name here* arms for costomers, andit works out dearer and still not as reliable as a set of new arms. All our traction rods use a common sized 5/8 rod end, same with toe etc, The caster rods use a 3/4 sizes rod end, If a customers budget can stretch to using say a QA1 bearing, thats what Id recommend. If I use QA1 rod ends, it will escalate the price though. Hence I use another US brand PTFE rod end. I can sell my arms minus rod ends if you like too. They can be bought here for example, off the shelf in Australia, no waiting, no BS. QA1-AML10ROD END (A) ENDURA ALUM M-L 5/8-5/8 RED$39.70 If you were to ring up CBC Bearing they can supply you with ANY 5/8 rod end to suit also. Make sure you know what your doing with rod ends before ordering though. As for the no boot policy, the 2 schools of thought are: 1 is with a boot you trap water in there, as well as dirt, if it does get in there. My rod ends are stanless balled and chromeolly housings, so they arent prone to rust, but nothing lasts forever. The Though is that water getting trapped in there will accerate wear, as opposed to slowing it. 2 is that you dont need a boot. The bearing has such tight tolenences that dirt cant get into the liner itself, same with water, BUT stones, rocks, dirt can effectively "sandblast" the ball of the bearing, as therefore it will tear the liner anyway. No one has done any wear testing. If anyone would like t be a guniee pig Im more than happy to do them a deal. I have seen no adverse wear using dust boots, in our climate though. Tein and cusco use boots as standard, but thats not a gauge. All off road trucks use and exposed rod end, and like QA1 have said in response to this very question: "Rose/heim joints are for race use, you must take into account the wear factor of using such parts" I have seen cheaper chinese arms still hold up 2 years down the track even, but I can offer a warranty, and a discount, if after the warranty period expires your joints have play in them I can offer you replacment joints at a cheaper rate (say in 2 years time when youd like freshen up) Sorry about the crappy photo, my partner just dropped some S/R series traction rods in for you to look at, I will break the part down for you in the next post.

I'll chuck up a picture when I have a spare moment today. I sell some Australian made items, but they do use a rose joint. If your after a Bushed or Urethane version the whiteline ones the ones for you. I am not a fan of the whiteline items as the use a welded U bracket and also the bush carrier is also welded. This also makes replacing any broken parts harder/dearer. The sets that we design and sell are 100% designed from scratch, using engineering techniques borrowed from 5 diff brands of arms on the market. They are made using only the best products, in common sizes so that if anything wears or fails, not only can I repair them for you, but replacement parts are available at most decent shops. The rod end is a US made 4140 Chromeolly rod end, using a Teflon/PTFE liner. The have a breakaway torque of around 5 pound too, unlike a brand I wont name, that requires OVER 50 pounds just to rotate the ball joint. These are not some cheap rose joint that we found in the bin, these are the real deal. We supply all arms with dust boots already on them, you can opt to have no boots for $6 less also. (there are 2 schools of thought to boots, I wont go into it here, but its up to you) The Turnbuckle is a 16mm 1018 low carbon steel left and right hand threaded item, zinc chromated, rather than powdercoated, this is so the threads are at least protected from rust. The U bracket is a Cold formed bracket, and then drilled and machine to size. Rather than bending a flat bar in a U shape the steel is cold formed in the U for strength. They are also 5mm thick Blue scope steel. The fastener is a 10.9 grade bolt (above an 8.8 even) using a Zinced jam nut. (MOST brands use a welded 8.8 rod onto the U bracket as this is cheap and allows for near infinite adjustment, this is the WEAKEST way to engineer a part. (I can go into this later if you like) Edit: The misalignment spacer is also 304 stainless rather than a steel zinced item, as this item sees the most friction when istalling stainless was the only way to ensure no rust contaminates onto the Rose joint itself. We run a very little margin and no marketing hence why we can make and sell these for $180 a pair. +$20 freight We also do caster rods and rear toe arms, as well as numerous Supra items. We are constantly developing items also, and R&D is on going. For the sake of comparison I can sell you a KTA117 for $226 pair +$22 freight also. I will get my partner to drop me a pair at work now, and I will take a photograph for you. Cheers Jude

I ordered one almost 2 weeks ago. Said he forgot to send it, fair enough, but now almost 5 working days later again, Im still waiting. Very very poor service, now hes not replying to my emails. I ordered this 2 weeks in advance so that I could get it on my car before it went on the dyno. Its going on the dyno tomorrow though