Emre

You are absoulately spot on summoner, For a national event of this magnitude, it's a piss weak effort to hire a dynolog, especially if the software is limited to 200kph. Needless to say, big hp cars are big hp cars, it just make it harder to compare the results.

You maybe talking about Damian. I really do not know them (BMT guys) that well.

Denham, I wasn't planning to, i get too fussy and frustrated with that kind of shite. I will edit the relevant bits and upload them as mpegs. If someone can host the SAU related stuff i am happy to upload them for you. Afterwards, the whole footage will be handed to Jack (our resident multimedia wizard) to be compiled into a DVD. Just don't hold your breath waiting for it, he's a little on the slack side.

Cool, just remove it. The lining prevents inside your guards becoming coated by dirt, mud etc. If you do not have the lining all those would make their way into the airbox.

The clutch dust build up inside the starter causes this screeching sound. Next time you have your gearbox out, get them to give it a blow and clean.

It doesn't suck air from the engine bay, sucks cool air from inside your guard. It has the extension that runs in between the airbox and the front guard. Can you see your intercooler piping if you look inside your guard towards the front bumper...? If not, you have the lining.

Who is your resident video footage hoster...? Give me some ftp details and i'll upload some footage for you.

How is it blocked off...? I've never seen one with a blocked off air feed. Regardless, just remove whatever is blocking it, you will get some additional air from inside the guard. You still have the linings inside your guards don't you...?

Jim, How noisy is it...? If it's noisy in neutral it may not even be your thrust bearing, but some of the bearings in the box, input shaft bearing, layshaft bearing etc. Thrust bearings are noisy when the clutch pedal is pushed in. My GTR box developed a bearing noise and it got worse over time but i still drove for over year with it. At the end it sounded like a dog box but it was still driving perfectly fine. If you are seriously worried, get it checked out by a reputable mechanic.

Buster, The latter, Matt has always ran on street tyres, so the clutch has never been under a great deal of stress, i wasn't trying to suggest otherwise. I think he is using a full faced organic with an upgraded pressure plate. I have no doubt it would fail if he was using some sticky rubber and having a few runs in a row.

Snowman, You are right, that's why i said 'in competitive motorsport'. You will have no hope with 300 rwkw, we are trying to establish whether they would be good enough to cope with 300kw at the engine. EDIT: ...in a GTR. All the talk in the last couple of pages relate to GTRs. Gts-t owners have it a lot easier in this department due to their 2WD setup. Matlowth has well over 300rwkw and he has been using single plate clutches for the last 3 years.

There are obviously a lot more gear changes involved on the circuit, but the clutch wear on a moving vehicle is minute. It basically disengages for the period of the gear change and engages when you let the pedal out, while the rotational speed of flywheel and the pressure plate is similar. The most wear occurs in heavy traffic conditions, when you have to move the whole mass from stationary, continuously. This is magnified hell of a lot when in a hurry, like a drag race In saying that, in competitive motorsport, the first 400 meters of a circuit race is a drag race, but done only once.

Putting in a new thrust bearing is a given when replacing your clutch, especially considering what they cost. Not doing so could be compared to not changing the filter when doing an oil change... even worse. I don't know why you would have to change the carrier though, unless you are going for a multi plate clutch...? Some require shorter carriers.

rev210, I agree with all of what you've said, except the following : The puck style clutches have about half the surface area of a full surface disc so the pressure is distributed over a smaller area for a given pressure plate rating. This will have more clamping power for the same pressure. Pressure = Force / Surface area Ceramic is used as the friction material bacause of its very high co-efficient of friction, also because of this they are not intended to be slipped at all as this will wear out the flywheel and the pressure plate at an alarming rate. To eliminate slip totally, pressure plate rating is increased. My factory flywheel is rooted bacause it copped a fair few launches and started slipping, more it slips, more damage is being done. I should've used a even higher rated pressure plate. You are totally correct in how to treat these clutches in everyday driving. You gotta literally do mini 2500 clutch drops at every take off, which can look quite ridicolous from outside. Regarding the 300kw GTRs racing : Was it circuit racing or drag racing...? Jim Berry from Race Clutches in Queensland is also very reputable in the business.

For you to do any sort of work on the clutch assembly, you have to take the gearbox out. For that reason, be prepeared to overhaul or even think of an upgrade depending on your plans. You wouldn't go to the extent of taking the gearbox out just to replace the thrust bearing. The noises you've described does not mean a catastrophy, if your clutch is not slipping just keep on driving it. The groaning noise you've described did happen to me a few times and first time it sounded horrible. Try to release the clutch pedal and push it again and see if it goes away. I don't know what causes it, my theory is that pressing the pedal doesn't release the clutch properly and there still has some contact between the disc and the flywheel or pressure plate; but it doesn't make sense how it goes away and comes back.

rev210, I think you've got it the other way around mate, less surface area will have more clamping force for a given pressure plate rating. That's why the most agressive single plates go with 3 pucks only. They will be fairly unforgiving and will take a little getting used to. Stiffness of your clutch pedal directly relates to the rating of your pressure plate, assuming pivot points hasn't been altered with. If you upgrade your pressure plate you will have a stiffer clutch pedal. For a single plate to hold on to some decent power in a GTR, you need a hell of a lot of pressure for it not to slip. GTRs, if driven hard are savage on clutches. If you drive around in normal fashion, sure, a single plate will have no troubles holding on to 300kw at the engine. If you like to take advantage of the 4WD and dump your clutch frequently, it will absoulately cop a hammering. I still have my factory flywheel in the garage that was mated to my ceramic 5 puck a couple of years ago, it is absoulately rooted.

Why...? Don't you know...?

Yeah... sure. For how long...?

I have tried a custom 5 puck, Nismo Spec II twin, and HKS Pro triple. In a GTR, forget the single plates if you are thinking of any modifications at all. Nismo Spec II is good for upto 600hp at the engine, has a sprung centre and doesn't rattle. It's very bitey and will take a little getting used to. HKS Pro triple is rated upto 1000hp and has a solid centre. When you engage the clutch it rattles which can be anoying for some. Drivability is very similar to the Nismo but it can shudder at times at take off.

nicknismo, From what you are saying, you are hooking up well, your 60 goot times suggest this, and having a good clean run. Unfortunately your best mph suggests you do not have enough power to better your ETs a great deal. How agressive are you with your gear changes...? That 240kw dyno run might have been in shoot out mode and/or the tuner might have pegged it back a little for safety. IGOAPE, I've never heard of anyone breaking their box, running the factory turbos.

LOL... Made me giggle. Bread doesn't last long enough to go stale in our house and i don't own an arc welder either. But i do have some old fence palings and a pitch fork. Could i put them to good use...? PS : Nicely explained Matt.

Well, that's exactly my point mate. I don't know what to say to you, without 10 of your mates jumping in and biting my head off. Maybe, your clutch is slipping.

Here is one of my runs, it's pretty similar to yours. I had about 200-210rwkw at that stage. This is, why there is absolutely no point, in quoting power figures.

Yes Jack, i've been there before, but was able to get the 11 on my 3rd and 5th run. :kick: It doesn't work out with the averages mate. What is your best 2-3 mph so far...? If you are not pulling 114mph, you only have a dyno printout of 240kw.

Merli, Mark is not running the 2530s no way near to their full potential yet. 2-3 mph difference between Jack's and Mark's run adds up to the 20-30 kw difference at the wheels. High 120s is achievable with the 2530s and maybe that magical 130mph. That may be good enough for 10s on Nittos.