Emre

Has it been like that all the time since you've picked your car up...? If it's base timing or cam timing, it could be diagnosed with visible inspection in very little time, check them both. If all check up ok things get a bit more complicated. I don't have all the knowledge to advise you on, so i won't. Take it back to them to fix it, i'm guessing it'll just be the re-aligning of the cams.

Your ebc is farked, it is not bringing your car on boost... ditch it and try a bleed valve. That was a joke, so stop your cursing. If it was the base timing you could pick it from the positioning of the crank angle sensor in a second. Sounds like a cam timing issue if you have cam gears, but i just can't think of a reason for them to loosen the bolts to alter the cam timing. They may have jumped a tooth with the cam belt as well. Take it back and get them to fix it.

Than you use the second method.

It's extremely amusing to see, how one can interpret things the way he wants to. This is a sign of an individual not not being able to communicate clearly, or not understanding how things work in the discussed topic. I never claimed, the bleed valves would be better than an EBC, i said they could be just as effective to use. You have trouble understanding what is written, for that i'd suggest you to go to the start of the thread and read it till it's clear. This whole saga started with Waz asking for people's opinion on the article he linked in his first post. Get this clear, he is NOT in the market for an EBC. Than Zahos linked a couple more aricles on the subject which basically explains all you want to know. Now, it's plain obvious you either didn't read those links or you didn't understand what was written again; so let me simplify it for you as best as i can. The factory boost selenoid controls the boost by bleeding air from the wastegate line; let's say the wastegate is fully open at 10 psi and the selenoid is bleeding maximum amount of air it can at that pressure. The first method is putting a valve in the line that goes into the boost selenoid. With this valve you are basically tricking the selenoid by bleeding off some of the air that it sees. The selenoid receives less pressure in the line and keep the wastegate shut at higher pressures. With this method, your boost will build up in the same way as the factory setup but you will be able to run higher boost. Simply putting a restriction on the wastegate line will alter the way your car comes on boost. The second method is putting two valves in series in the wastegate line. By putting a pressure regulator (a valve) you can alter the amount of air the diaphram in the wastegate receives thus allowing you to run the boost level you want. A second valve is used before the pressure regulator to control the creep which is similar in operation to your gain button on your EBC. This valve prevents any air passing through it till a certain adjustable point. If you set it at 12psi, no air will be passing through it and your wastegate will be fully shut till then. And that's my friend how you can make your car come on boost earlier, just like an EBC does in less than $100.

GTR has the vent built into the lower lip but doesn't have the deflector to guide the air onto the brakes. We are talking about a 20c a piece, curved rectangle bit made of... i don't know what here.

You are wrong again. I suggest you take your own advice and read his post till the end. I run Win2k on one machine and XP on the other, so i'll go and look for a job as a system administrator tomorrow. OK clown, but consider this. What is coming out of my ass makes more sense than what is coming out of your mouth. That doesn't say much about your intelligence does it...?

Which model are you talking about...? The differences are more profound in the R32's. V-Spec's have 17" BBS wheels, Brembo brakes found on the R33's. In the R33 range, the V-Spec's have the ATTESA Pro and an active LSD. Suspension is supposed to be stiffer and 10mm lower and also have a deflector to guide the air onto the front brakes. Engine internals and the driveline are the same for both series. Don't know much about R34's.

You are wrong. Zahos's reply explains why. Obviously your experience is fairly limited on the issue. Realize and accept that fact before sounding so authoritative.

I am sorry (NOT) Adam, i didn't mean to discredit your expert opinion on the matter. I just can't afford an expensive EBC and use a bleed valve instead. To justify my choice, i just give bad advice in threads like this and try to veer people from using an EBC, cause i can't. Read the topic starters (Waz) question again. To answer his question again, Yes, a well setup bleed valve will work just as effective as an EBC and bring the car on boost just as quick as an EBC can. Possible boost spike and electronic in car adjustment would be the only difference in between a bleed valve and an EBC. As long as your boost spike is manageable (if you have one) and you don't want to change your boost setting every 5 mins, there wouldn't be any more advantage in using an EBC.

So, 2510's running on 1.6 bar gave you 396 rwkw... Ditto Merli... WOW.

A bleed valve can work just as effective as an EBC and bring the car on boost just as quick as an EBC. Give Nige @ Ice a call and he will hook one up for you fairly cheap.

Is it flywheel or rear wheel figure...? If rear wheel, it is capable of a lot more than 125 mph.

I have the HKS Hypermax's in my car, they have 12 settings which goes from hard to phucken hard. I love the way they ride but wouldn't recommed them in a daily commuter.

The settings will vary depending on the modifications performed. One thing is for sure that it will be retarded. For stockish setup -3, -4 crank case degrees seem to have good results.

They are troublesome to fit under the flared guards of the 32 GTR so i would confidently say, you have no hope of fitting them onto a 32 Gts-t.

Having a pod filter instead of the sealed factory air box makes the induction noise a lot more audible. You will also notice the bov will be louder as well.

If you already have the HKS cam gears fit them in. They are made of aliminium which is a softer metal than steel but you are not gone wear them out in 15k kms with a rubber belt. It is amazing how these were once the most popular cam gear sets in the market because of their colours, but one person mentions their unreliability at insane rpms and everyone thinks they are shite now. Emre.

Inefficiency of the internal wastegates in stock turbos, as in, not being able to bypass the excess exhaust gasses quickly enough is the most common cause of boost spiking. It will not damage the turbo as it happens in midrange where the turbine speeds are not excessively high. Assuming you have enough fuel to go with it, it should not damage your engine either, but provide you with a stronger midrange. They are more manageable in GTRs as the stock ecu is able to supply enough fuel and keep the AFRs steady.

Hmmm... Where have i heard that before...?

In fact, re-reading your last couple of post i would urge you to go for the twin plate. For a single plate clutch to hold onto 350hp+ it would have to have a lot less surface area and a very heavy(on the foot) pressure plate unless the pivot point of the fork is altered. Result would be a no more friendly setup than a twin plate that can handle 700hp at the flywheel. A lightened flywheel will help you accelerate quicker. The mass of a twin plate assembly is naturally more than a single plate, so they compensate it with a lightened flywheel already. In my case, it was still slightly lighter than my single plate setup.

You should have no problems if it's done properly to the factory specifications or better. 350 hp at the wheels is well within limits of the stock bottom end. To answer your previous question, if you go for a twin plate a lightened flywheel will come with it, do not lighten that any further. If you decide to go for a single plate you can choose to lighten and balance your factory flywheel, just don't take any more than %25 out.

I have a nismo twin plate and it's fine to drive. Before that i had a 5 puck ceramic single and it wasn't any different to drive. Both weren't very easy to drive but were quite manageable on daily basis. My advice would be to go for a twin plate, your wife will get used to it. It will be a pain for her compared to other cars she may drive, but unless you put back in an organic-full faced stock clutch in there, all others will be as well.

Theoretically yes, definitely. You need to get the 1.7sec 60 foot and 115mph to do it in a GTR, with the same power but less weight GTS-T you should get more mph and be able to do it with a 1.8 60 footer. The trick is to nail that 60 foot and follow it with a very good run. Although i don't flat change you still have to be fairly aggressive with your gear changes. Considering we judge our cars' performance within that 0.1 of a sec. you gotta realize how clean you run has to be. Slow or missed gearchanges, loosing traction into 2nd or 3rd,hitting the rev limiter briefly will all cost you that 0.1 sec. or more that may be all the difference. For comparison, i also did 12.1 @ 115 mph with 1.89 60 foot and 12.3 @ 115 mph with 2.05 60 foot.

Getting into 11's is not very hard and costly with GTR's... You need about 250kw at the wheels and 115mph. I got 250kw with exhaust, cam gears and boost, everything else was stock. Launches are very important but not tyre dependant to a great degree. I managed 1.77 and 1.73 sec. 60 foot times with Ziex's and 1.72 with Bridgestone 540's.

Not much to be confused about here Toby, You are simply measuring the distance covered which in this case 0-100 meters. As you discovered you will cover 100 meters at 5.5 sec cruising at 65km/h. If you did it on the freeway cruising at 100km/h you would have a reading of 3.6 sec. As your first post says, doing it from stand still gave you constant 6 - 6.3 sec. results. These readings have nothing in common with the published 0-100km/h times of the manufacturer. If you did the run over 0-400 meters, you would have a reading arguably comparable to 1/4mile times taken at a drag strip. Your reading would not be very accurate for the reasons stated above. The terminal speed you are referring to may just be the peak hold of your speed reading. Depending on where you got your power source from this may reset each time you turn your ignition off, but during driving it will just display your highest speed since the car has been started.