Emre

http://www.racepacemotorsport.com/rpmgtr.html If you are genuinely interested, ring Ben on 9762 9421 and arrange a time to see the vehicle.

Giddy up...

That is pretty much what I am saying, bearing in mind that we are talking about track cars. Sure, you can bolt a T51 on an RB26 and have an awesome top end, but at what cost...? I don't mean it in $$$ value either.

From what I've seen so far, I really do not understand this 'an extra 30kw of power over 2530s' comment. I haven't seen GTRS produce any more power than the 2530s on an RB26, anywhere on the graph. If 2530s can provide all the air an RB26 can consume and than more, what use is the theoretical extra air GTRSs can provide (unless you have a purpose built engine to suit the GTRSs)...? I have an extra 50kw on you on the track, but our times do not suggest this. Ben with similar power to me but with extra suspension settings, have ~2 seconds on us. Assuming all of us have similar abilities behind the wheel, (disregarding my advantage of being able to hit walls) what does that tell you...?

2530s produce 1 bar @ around 4000rpm in 3rd, on my stock engine. This can obviously differ from car to car, depending on other specs. 60 kmh was just a guesstimate I used at that moment. 4250 in second sounds about right and it would be about 7000 in first; an awkward situation to be in IMO. Imagine if it was a 70 kmh corner. Don't short change yourself mate. If you are doing 1.25s, you will be right on his tail, or maybe in front. RedRocket, You are right. However, if GTRS has the same response as the 2530 as it's publicised, their operating range would be similar. And yes, you are nitpicking.

Forget the gear ratios for a moment Andrew. By changing gears at 8000 rpm, you should never feel any lag, regardless of which one of the two you choose. The fact that I am aware of is that, 2530s are going to build boost earlier than the GTRSs, doesn't matter what gear you are in. Don't forget, you can't always stay in between 6-8000 rpm. An example : If you are coming out of a hairpin doing 60 kmh in second, which turbo is going to accelerate you quicker...? Another example : If you are holding 150 kmh through a sweeper in 4th, which turbo is going to give you quicker response...? If you have an extra cog in there, use it to your advantage. Why would you wanna give that advantage away and get back on the same terms with an R33...? Now you owe me $450.02

It's an inline 4, not a V4 or a boxer. Why should the other two cylinders be on the other side...?

If I was in Sydney, I'd make a deal with you. Bugger.

Good info GTS4. Here is a link to detailed RB26 ECU Pinouts in Word. Click

We can have it in James's flat, in front of the PS2. I'll bring the wood and kindling.

Ben is a one man team most of the time, sometimes two. If he is doing any jobs in the workshop, he will not answer the phone. He may be out and about as well.

According to this site (click), most of the Nissan ECUs share the same pinouts. Your problem is that RB26 transplants in an R33 GTS4 is not very common, give SDU a try as well. Different models of skylines are more prominent there. Good luck on the weekend.

The very fast examples of a make and model is the yard stick in any argument. Some are convinced in its total superiority instantly and in this case anything else, like the awesome 2JZ becomes rubbish. Mario develops a very high revving 1300 hp engine and it's used in all sorts of arguments. Have a look in the 'Tomei RB28 stroker' thread. I remember distinctly, a few years ago, HKS cam gears were the most popular in the market. Everryone wanted them. One day, Mario made a comment about how the HKS cam gears were not suited to his high load, high rpm engine. From that moment on it was quite common to read people rubbishing the HKS cam gears. Some people wanted to sell theirs and replace them.

The part number for the N1 water pump for the R33 GTR is 21010-24U27. I bought mine from Unique in Sydney and it was $195 including delivery to Victoria. I believe they have gone up in price since. AFAIK, they need to be modified to fit the R32 which is the reason for the price difference.

You point is very true, but it can be argued that you don't have to run 1200hp on the track, hence you don't have to rev to 12000rpm or whatever Mario's car rev to. If a 750hp RB 26 was going to cost me as much as the 750hp RB30, I would go with the RB30.

LOL... How many times have I heard that before...? The difference with the stock ECU is that, it doesn't have to save any changes, as it's not programmable. AFAIK, there is no save function with the commander, it applies the changes as soon as you change any parameter. The changes are saved when the ignition is turned off, which explains your problem. Is the GTS4 wiring same as the GTR wiring...?

The extra torque from the RB30 would make all the difference on a street, track oriented car. If you are going for the maximum hp a block can support than things are different. For this reason, Mario's car is totally irrelevant. If you want 500hp, a stock RB26 will do the job. If you want 7-800hp why wouldn't you want the extra 400cc...?

Default ignition setting at idle is supposed to be 20 degrees Has the FC got the default map or a previous tune from another car in it...? If you had the FC previously and was running without dramas before the injector and AFM change, I'd say the problem is with the new settings. The fluctuating ignition may be causing the hunt @ idle, or it may be the other way around. If the hunting idle is getting close to stalling, it may be causing that fluctuation. Datalogit does may things a lot easier, as you can save your map than initialize the FC to default settings and have a fresh start.

Listen mate, the last thing I want to do is to turn this into a slanging match. FYI, I am not offended, I am merely trying to correct you; although you are coming back with a different angle every time. If you like to paddle in your canoe upstream, that is fine. Just know that there is a strong current in here.

From greenline.co.jp : TRUST GReddy Intercooler Kit 294 x 600 x 115 mm. ¥136,868 @80 cents per Yen, that is $1710 in Japan. That, according to my maths, is over 5 times the $320 he had in mind. Now, feel free to correct me, as you seem to enjoy doing. :bonk:

Sigh... Forget what i said mate, here is what you want to hear : Piss that stock cooler off for starters and get a Hybrid kit. If you want to spend over 5 x more than what you had in mind, than get a Japanese brand. Maybe you will put a T78 on it one day and will really need it. Who am I taking the pi$$ out of now...? :slap:

No I wasn't. He stated he wants a shiny front mount. My GTR cooler copes very well @ well above 300 rwkw. So, tell me why I/he should change it, unless it's for the aesthetics.

None. If aesthetics is your main criteria, you can strip your factory cooler and maybe polish the end tanks.

Well... We sent Ash down to see how it's done, so we can catch up. After he gets back, we will all gather around a camp fire and just marvel at the stories he has to tell. I'm sure we won't sleep that night. Can't wait. :bahaha: :bahaha: :bahaha:

I've just noticed this post now, when re-reading the whole thread SK. Yes, we leaned it out for more gains, but that was done by % to the whole map which resets when you turn the ignition off. I was trying to say that, tuning by the individual cells wasn't necessary.