Emre

I've used the Sunoco GT Plus which is similar to the VP, purchased from here-click It's a lot superior to PULP but no where near as potent as the C16. On the dyno the car took extra 4-5 degrees of ignition which resulted in an extra 35-40rwkw. From memory, that was with a mixture of 1:1 with Synergy. @ $5 per litre, it can be very costly during a track day but ideal for extra ponies down the quarter.

Are you certain it was totally empty before hand...? Blow-by in forced fed vehicles is a known problem and depending on the driving you had done, I'd say it's normal. Put it this way, I collected a over a litre, after a day out @ the track.

Some timing lights do not give the correct reading, in fact, when you think you've dialed 15 degrees you may have 7.5 degrees. If this was the case, the heavy retardation of the timing would've caused all those symptoms.

Any times of the Supra...? It looks serious.

I've just noticed the title on the main page. Very sweet ride OZ, congrats. Bset of all, it's not Bayside Blur

044 needs a few fittings changed to fit in the stock pump cradle and position. Have a read of this thread. Click.

Very most likely, it's the throttle position sensor. What's the voltage on idle...?

There are those who can interpret the written text and those that can not. 17 year old Michael falls on to the latter category and should take his own advice and STFU.

Get real will ya !!! You and your chronies get great pleasure in trying to make yourselves look ahead of everyone else. You are the one started this thread with a claim of 511rwhp knowing that it was a false reading, inviting everyone to scrutinize the result. It turns out that the result is nothing out of ordinary and is replicated everywhere else, with the exception of difference in injector sizes. Big farken deal, next time you are in VIC, let me present you with a plaque carved out of an off-cut 0.5mm steel. If you try my earlier suggestion of cam gear modification i will upsize it to 1mm. To finalise, why is there a 40 degree difference between the intake and ambient temperatures...? It was explained to me by a DD rep that, 40 deg. difference would add an 8% to the reading. In short, move along fellas...

If they had adjustable cam gears and advanced the intake 10 degrees and the exhaust by 8 degrees, they would've got 624rwhp.

We don't watch SBS much. Give me a holler mate.

We don't watch SBS much. I'll take a guess and say it stands for Sump Baffle Syndrome ...??? Give me a holler mate.

Fark me... That's a heavy loaf of bread !

Yep, had it sitting in front of the rear seat, wedged behind the front passenger seat. R33 GTR on a weighbridge with a 1/3 tank of petrol, no driver. My race weight with a full tank is damn close to 1700 kgs.

PMSL... Have you been a good boy...? I'm shocked to say, my water temps reached as high as 117 degrees on the weekend. Oil temps were as high as 125 degrees. The PowerFc has protection against higher temperatures, built in. For example, if the water temperature goes above 90 degrees, it starts taking ignition out progressively, as much as 5 degrees at 110 degrees. Same deal for intake temperatures.

Troy - are you trying to say that the reason Benno can out brake me by MILES given that we run the same tyres is due to his suspension set-up rather than his massive brakes? LOL. Snowy, To be fair, Roy is only talking about a caliper upgrade. On sunday, Roy pointed out to Snowie's brakes and said to the guy that, that brake package, was all that would be needed. The guy looked at Roy than at Snowie's brakes than back at Roy and said : "but those are only stock size". To which, Roy began sharing his theories with great enthusiasm, most likely without realizing that Snowie's rotors were stock sized. As there was no alcohol involved, the discussion was somewhat short lived and the guy was distracted with something else. :bahaha: :bahaha: :bahaha: It's true that the braking limit is determined by your tyre contact patch, but in the case of 33s, an 18 inch wheel upgrade increases your tyre contact patch (albeit more to assist lateral grip) therefore increasing your braking point where you lock up. Roy's revolving or hinged door anology clearly explains how a car can benefit from a brake upgrade. The problem is that, towards the larger sizes, a brake and wheel upgrade can be quite costly and it would be advisable to look at different ways of increased breaking force. In any case, if it wasn't for the weak Snowmeister, this issue could've been discussed the night before with greater value

Argh... Not looking good. I have a wedding to attend to that weekend. Have a great time.

That, my friend, is the quote of the day. It's good to see you in good spirits mate.

I had to travel as far as Snowy did. The car has a battle scar but will be fixed with no dramas.

LOL... Self explanotary isn't it...? We didn't come out on saturday night, cause we didn't wanna be messed on Sunday.

RE540's are the ones that are superseeded by the RE55's. They come in different compounds as well. I have them on my R.

Have a look here Is this the unit you are talking about John...? For $399 do we get all the optional extras...?

No need to PM John. How much for the unit, per single or x5 items...?

Very true SK. I control my boost with the EVC but still monitor boost with the MAP sensor from the boost kit.

The only advantage of having the FC boost kit is to be able to monitor boost levels and settings with the hand controller. Its ability to control boost is not any superior to your current unit. Your blitz unit is already installed and if you are happy with it, why bother...?