sewid

Who sells them and how much are they for the 76mm neck version?

Love those vids. Wish i could understand Japanese.

No actually u are spot on. Inside the door, you will have this: +12v for power windows ----> window switch ----> window motor All you need to do is jack into the +12v before the power window switch. You need to wire that to the coil side of a relay. Then wire the other side of the relay to the door lock/unlock switch circuit. This becomes more complicated if you use one of those alarm power window interfaces which auto wind the power windows but is still doable.

Hrm. Complicated but. You could get a hold of an Acc +12v line from somewhere (back of the cigarette lighter is the easiest place to find this on my R33) and run that to the always on +12v. The thing is tho i think that this would result in non-functional central locking. Especially if you use remote keyless entry. So in that case you could run the Accessory +12v to the inside of the door and using a small 12v relay wire it up so that the door lock/unlock switch is only part of the circuit when the Accessory +12v wire is hot. It works in my head.

If anyone is interested I have an almost new 2.5" cat flanged for an R33 Skyline which i pulled off my own exhaust when i fitted a 3" cat. Im in Sydney. PM me for more info. It's a Catco brand cat.

Thanks jay, you're taking all the fun out of this and doing my work for me hehe Im guessing if the solenoid failed it would fail closed since it would be a coil failure and subsequent loss of ability to stay open. So thats fairly safe. I will write up a report after some test runs.

Thanks Jay. I knew the solenoid wouldnt be variable since by definition a solenoid is an on/off magnetically actuated device. A variable device would be more expenisve and require something like a servo. If Nissan did none of us would need to spend the money on EBCs Thanks again that was something i was worried about since most bleed valve install guides/howtos recommend keeping the solenoid attached for "fooling" the ECU... I will test the thing at 12v outside of the car to see if solenoid damage seems likely. The coil in the device may overheat and damage itself. I may be able to get it to actuate at a lower voltage.

Why do you say that? The solenoid opens at 5000rpm. Providing 7psi not :unlimitedpsi: Say it opened at 2000rpm the situation would be the same rightl? Except that it would boost at 7psi from 2000rpm instead of 5000rpm?

A simple diode would prevent this.

Hey guys, Seems like a lot of people go for a bleed valve or some other cheap soloution to run just a bit more boost when it seems perfectly achievable to me without any extra parts. So if the ECU sends a signal to the stock boost solenoid once we reach 5000rpm which causes the solenoid to open and boost to increase to ~7psi why not just send this voltage to the solenoid all the time, or via a switch in-cabin? While its not as controllable as a bleed valve. It does cost next to $0 + fiddling time. So my next question is, does anyone know at what voltage the solenoid activates (12v?) and is it damaging to leave a solenoid permanantly in the open position? Thanks

Apparently the Nissan pulsar single din map box fits and looks good in the Skyline dash. Off the the wreckers with you!

No sir, i dont like it.

rare or shithouse? you should swap yours for a commodore methinks

Has anyone got/built this model? Is it a Series 1 R33 GTS25t? http://www.hlj.com/cgi-perl/hljpage.cgi?AOS31193

I might buy a 89 R32 GTS as a beater car if i can find a nice one.

Did you clean the AFM filament itself with some CRC Eletrical Contact Cleaner? There are a few (thousand) threads about that on here. Try that before you buy a new one.

huh?

Im spending about $50 - $65 a week on fuel. Factored into that is daily driving (lots of on boost driving up hills). Then there are insurance, rego, modifications, servicing costs on top of that. Dont want to think about how much they cost. Im thinking of importing a 89 R32 GTS as a daily driver/paddock basher next year to try get the fuel bill down while still keeping with the Skyline Junkie theme

It's basically restricted to what you can find at auction. There is no "list" it would be like saying "give me a list of good cars i can buy today, the FULL LIST". To get a general idea I would get on the Prestige Motorsports mailing list. You will see shortly that while it sounds like a great idea, cars that are 15 year old are cheap and importable for a reason. 15 years is a long time in the life of a performance car...

You can bring in any car over 15 years old. There is no list.

All those differences + different AFM.

Stamp duty is 3% of the purchase price. So if your purchase price is $35k and thats what you tell the RTA then they will charge you 35000 x 0.03 = $1050. If you can get a bill of sale or whatever with a lower purchase price you can lower your stamp duty. You might not be able to do that though.

I called Prosperion to talk to them about leasing a Skyline and actually spoke to someone who was leasing his own R33 thru Prosperion so knew all the ins and outs. In fact he's probably on these forums. Anyway the facts are that you can only lease a car that will be max of 8 years old at the END of the lease. So if you lease a 96 model R33 now you can only lease it for 1 year then you will have to finance it somehow at the end or get rid of it to payout the car. But for a newer R33 or R34 it would be good. But they dont organise insurance for imports anymore and you would have to source your own comp insurance. Which was fine by me...

End yourself now!

Right, yeah shouldve looked at that. I was going off the price I had seen someone selling one for locally. Shoulda figured the Jap price would've been a lot better. As you say, yeah there seems to be a good second hand market for them, although i cant see why. I have seen a lot of people selling them second hand (on these forums for example). A 2nd hand unit rarely goes for less than you can get a new one in from japan for. Silly but true. (Did a search for SAFCII in the For Sale forum, these are the prices i found from the top 5 hits: $500, $565, $350 (bargain), $650, $570). Is the moral of that story, buy SAFCII == Profit!? Or maybe, "do no research == get ripped off".