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For a colour to suit your car I would use bayside blue but made in a blacker version or with more transperant blue in the paint . This way it would be more of a ghost effect for the graphics or what ever you go with if painting them on . you coould also use a blue candy with pearls in it for a darker see though effect which would look very cool . 75coupe has good points with the vinyl and the effect and if you later decide that yo want one of the designs painted on I am sure he can make a reverse stencil for painting . One other thing is if painting you will need to find someone that will do and if can do if they are not fully booked .

Make: 1993 Skyline Model: R32 GTS-4 2 door Coupe Milage: 124000 Transmission: 5 speed Manual Colour: Custom Painted Candy Red with Black Candied Bonnet Location: Perth WA Complied? Yes Currently registered? Till Oct 2008 Price: $14500 Contact: 0433 902 647 Comments / Modifications: Grey interior neat and tidy 17" Gold Alloy wheels 4WD 4WS Turbo timer Immobiliser BOV GTR Body kit Sunroof CD Player, speakers & 2 amps Boost gauge Adjustable boost Sport steering wheel Tinted windows Front mount intercooler Strut brace 3" Cat back exhaust K&N Pod filter The car is always garaged. Panel and Paint only 4 months old. Images:

It shouldn't take that long to paint a roof at all .If I was doing it it would be a two day turn around the only reason it may take this long is it would be a job that gets done in between insurance work which is understandable . Paint dosn't take long to cure enough to take a car home .A car can come out of the booth in the morning and the owner should be able to take it home later that day . If the paint on the roof is as bad as it sounds then the yare going to have to prime down the pillars as well so they will have to paint the rear quarters as well .

What price are you looking at paying this is more likely your best bet .

This is hard as this all depends on the panel or bumber etc . Fibre glass costs alot more than plastic second costs alot more than new. Most places would charge about 400.00 for a plastic bar about 600 for the same in fibre glass . This would apply for the bonnets as well about 400.00 steel in and out and between 400 to 1k for a fibre glass depending on work involved to prep . As you can see I could go on for some time but what I am trying to say ther eis no real approx price as per say . Colours also lay a factor as well in cost some colours can be done in 2 to 3 coats some take up to 5 which is nearly twice the colour some colours require 3 stages to reach the end colour . PS people doing their own prep work can work out costing you more in the end as not many people prep well or use the right products this is best left to the person you want to do the job or with their advise so you are both going in the same direction

Price realy depends on work that is needed but as people have said that it will fall between 3/5k for a desent job . the parts that effect prices are dents off cause windows been taken out if they have rubbers that are hard up againt the paint (some will say that this doesn't need to happen but this is why you see paint flaking in these area on skylines) how much work is needed to the front bumber before paint ,body kit will also cost more as well if a big one. If its a basic white with a few scatches stone chips and a few shoppping dents that need to be done I would say around 3k from there the above will start to cost more . Ps I am in Perth nth the river and do this for a living so if you need a quote advise or info feel free to pm me or come see me at my shop Pm for this as well if wanted .

I would like to buy one as well if still available .Just let me know whats needed to pay etc Thanks

I love black bonnets as they do make the car look more like a race car .There is enough black on skylines with the window surround to give it a complete look .Noone I knew liked mine when I painted the car but once the windows went back in people loved it .

I just finshed painting my wifes black fiesta with house of kolor ice pearl there are alot of colours avail and is pretty easy to do all thats required is to rub the car down mask it up and then reclear with this in the clear . While its in sunlight it shows up a little but its movement that gives it a dancing effect but out of the sun its just plain black .Its just another thing that could be done with a black car .

If it was me I would get a new secondhand fender apossed to getting the other one beaten .I am sure you could fit it yourself and have it painted when the kit is painted.

I don't realy like busy paint jobs but that one looks very effective and not to full on .I admire the painters effort for sure and once finshed I bet it will look a millon dollars on the track

If your buying a new spray gun with that budget I would look into getting a star gun as they are pretty good for the price and just a cheaper version on a iwata gun . I would also buy a tac rag for getting all the bits of dust and dirt of the surface before painting .Before painting just wet the floor down around the engine bay with some soapy water as this will help stop dust from blowing up when painting . Also because the car is not in a booth try to get the iso free hardner and if not try to get a accelerated hardner so it drys alot faster which with help with less dirt .

I find 2 pac alot easier to spray than acrylic myself as acrylic never seems to sit nice where 2 pac will . With the effort your putting in I would go with a 2 pac direct gloss black which will not require clearing and its just as tuff as clear as they both use the same hardner as each other . If you put the colour down nice and wet then it will not need cutting and 9 times ot of 10 it never does . Buy a cheap gravity gun with a 1.3 tip or 1.4 tip .Try to get a 1.3 tip this will just allow a little more time when painting but must use 1.4 tip so thats good as well . There also is legal hardner that you can use with 2 pacs which allow you to paint at home etc .The only one that I know of is protec paints that do the iso free hardners but I am sure all major paint brands do them .

They may have used enamal on the older cars but that was before acrylic and 2 pac and the main reason for designing a new product is because the older one was not cutting it and enamal was at least 2 different paint system ago which basicly means its useless . Enamal will have a very short life span and can not be brought back once stuffed and can not be painted over later and in a engine bay the last thing your going to want is a complete sand off and redo .I have no idea why you would risk it when there are products out there as cheap or cheaper that will do the job twice as well and that will last . Heres another person on another forum doing a car in enamal and the response from a painter/shop owner And the paint wasn't acrylic - it was automotive enamel. It doesn't need to be buffed as acrylic does, which is good, but the downside is that it's more difficult to touch up when you come to correct any imperfections. I'm led to believe it's what people used before decent acrylics came along. Response What have you done Nick?? I don't want to rag on your work,and the I think the colours work well together. But,why did you jam it up?Did the painter tell you once the enamel dies it won't cut back up,and I'd imagine up in that queensland sun that it will be mighty faded within 12 months. The other big problem is if you ever want to repaint it all the enamel has to come off,nothing will go over it. I would strongly advise against doing your door jambs,imagine how hard it will be to get it out of there if you decided to change colours down the track. The worst thing is that you could have bought some cheap 2pack for about the same money,and it's not much harder at all to use than enamel. Sorry mate,I just find it hard to comprehend the decision when I know that you love the car.__________________ __________________

I always thought enamel was basicly useless on cars as it does not like the elements at all and can not be brought back (buffed )or painted over by 2 pac once its stuffed . best advise do it proberly or know that its not going to last . You also said you wanted to clear coat it as well but couldn't use 2 pac at home so if you meant you were going to use acrylic clear then you might as well use acrylic black but if you were going to 2 pac clear it the you mught as well use base coat black . The hardeners in the 2 pac is the problem.

Your paint is stuffed on the bonnet buffing will not help at all . Best bet would be to repaint the bonnet .Cheap easy way for you to do this is to sand it down and paint it black . Black looks good on a skyline requires no colour matching to the rest of the car and if your handy you could do it youreslf . Failing that getting the bonnet painted for you shouldn't be that expensive .

Acrylic drys faster than 2 pac and is also the only one that can be legaly sprayed outside a booth as well . This job can be done at home with the right equipment but if its not the right product you can do some serious damage to yourself or others around you . Best advise would be to do it in 2 pac using clear over base but use satan clear and hire a booth .

You can just respray the roof and blend down the pillars .Price wise it depends as always on what needs to be done But it sounds like the paint is flaking like almost all skylines that I see . Price I would guess around the 500 mark and up 1000 but unlikely

If you were in Perth I would do it for 4k windows out inside out (not the engine bay)etc . I would have the windows taken out as it only cost around 300 to have all 4 taken out and the rear quarter window surounds are way to close to the panels to get a desent finsh around there . Price will depend on what you want colour wise inside out makes a difference as well . Cheap is not always good but nor is expensive

I would think it would be very expensive as it would be very time consuming doing the individual tape outs and colours . I also think that the digital camo sections themself have different shading of that colour in square blocks as well so it would depend on how far you would want to go with them. Sounds cool and different but the cost may out way the effect

$500 for a bonnet is cheap and so is the painting side of it .I know its sometimes fustrating when the money you have doesn't go as far as you would like but thats not that bad of a price to modify your car .

Last time I visited fibre vision it was a place that made kits not paint whole cars at any type of quality .Granted this was some time ago and unless the owner has changed then I could not see him being the only desent guy out there let alone desent at all . I would recomend looking outside bayswater as well as there's great shops in Malaga wanneroo etc area . I would also post up what you would be wanting to spend as this would help with where people can point you to . IF it was just a body kit then I guess most shops would do a good job but if its the whole car then I would choose a little more carefully . Fibre vision would not be one of my options for a desent job .

If the plastic grille has not been painted before it will need plastic primer if not the paint will peel off for sure . Also good idea to scuff the plastic with a fine sand paper or the like before plastic primer . Fibreglass grille will more than likely need some work as they all end up with small holes and the like that need filling . The plastic one will be easier unless the fibre glass one is perfect . Apart from that the above directions will do the job .

This is my r32 with paint code AH3 Also with this colour it does have a few different varients with PPG and all of them look completly different they are not even good enough to be blended with each other .

I have one of this guys front bars and its not bad for the price .It fits pretty well my only problem is that the fibre glass isn't that thick and it tends to crack alot . But as I said for the price its a good product