BANGN

na ceramic, no dont use fuel additives.

Taken my chirpy RB20 16V Turbo off to replace it with a larger item but noticed something I have never ever seen before on turbos.. my exhaust wheel and around the waste gate flap and the flap it self is white! its allmost like bleeched clean white :S nothing else is this colour, the housing is all soooty black like normal. any ideas? I dont think its running lean as dyno couple weeks back indicated rich figures.. i have replaced oxy sensor since the dyno and fuel economy has slightly improved but yeh never seen this before..

you dont need to go OEM... I ordered mine from WA DRIVE, Most brgs are Koyo and some bits n pc's genuine.. u can get a half kit cheap... which is just main shaft & input shaft brgs (not gear rollers) I went the whole hog but not about to disclose the cheap price i payed through work.

got mine for $65, car runs heaps better

im sorry guys but your all horribly wrong..(apart from you 2lv8 you partly correct) the thrust brg will only make a noise when the clutch is ENGAGED as it only spins when its up against the pressure plate. The noise you are hearing is a very common noise with the 32's, its the bearings on the main shaft in the centre housing your selector shafts run through of your gearbox. Only way you will get rid of it is putting a bearing kit through the gearbox. Just replacing the input shaft bearing will most likely not fix the noise completly wait til it starts clunking when the bearings start moving about in the cage, then worry about it which depending on how its been driven will be about 200K Km. Drain your gearbox oil you will most likely find shavings. If you buy a S/H 20 gearbox you will be buying the same problem

you will need a new filler neck, you MAY need to drop the tank a lil bit to acces the bolts at the tank but if you pull down the skirt liner you might be able to access it

call "famous car insurance" you can pay monthly and they insure imports, i got a quote from them and was pretty happy with my full comp quote, I live in an average area under a car port and yeh still a good rate... guna get it done shortly

any pics man.. ur right man.. tacky as hell.. if you wouldnt mind giving me a measurement of width of yours as I have a funy feeling these are longer than usual :S

Hi all, Having a delema in choosing some clear guard flashers for my R32 I received these today and they just dont look right, they are VT-VX guard flashers but they are way too long and they just stick out like dogs balls, currently I have these GTR flashers, I am happy with the size of these but not orange on a black car! The VX ones are about 15mm longer on each side! any ideas? what have others done?

try giving your AFM a clean with electrical cleaner spray, they can get pretty dirty. Im looking at doing the same soon as my 32 is stock atm running 14psi and im only getting 400km on a factory tune, I would usually expect that with 240rwhp, not 185 which Im guessing I have

dude get your hands dirty, dont pay someone to do it, start off small and work your way up, anything you are not sure about. research and more research, we all had to start from square 1.

260 bucks off ebay for a alu 3 core rad

I dont get why people are recomending WOLF 3d's, for years I have been told by alot of people they are peices of shit to tune

rule of thumb when you buy a R33, first mod - dont waste your money on SAFC's turbos and boost controllers.. get your self a new ECU, they allways run rich and underpowered on the factory ecu.

hense why i went genuine hoses on teh special bends.. the two short rubber hoses that go to the turbo at the back of the cyl head I used generic heaterhose as its a minor bend, the one that goes to the thottlebody i also used generic heater hose, the one that comes from the throttle body to teh intake manifold I used genuine and the hoses to the firewall i used genuines as there is heaps of bends, the hose that goes under the intake manifold and the small one to the block I also used generic heater hose as genuine hose you buy a huge peice for like 70 bucks and you use about 20mm of it. Also the hose that goes from back back side of the intake manifold underneat to the front of the block is pretty much a special genuine hose and the ones that come the upper section of the intake manifold on the front side to the lower side of the intake manifold (2 hoses) they are pretty much a genuine item.. realisticly you could get away with using all aftermarket straight hoses but it will look funny and wont be neat.

fix your plug gaps to .8mm, that should fix your popping under boost

my bet its the either the small hose that comes out of the block OR the small hose under the intake manifold I did warn you when buying a 32 that those hoses are usually original hoses and pop frequently.. best you replace all of them. the hoses under the intake manifold are a peice of shit to replace, if its the short straight hoses just use normal heater hose, no point in going genuine. If your paying someone to fix it, I dont think your going to get much change out of 2-250 bucks. Iv replaced those hoses on all 3 of my 32s, hense why its best to bite the bullet and replace all the hoses however if your paying someone to do all the hoses expect to pay a fair bit, wont get much change out of 400 bucks at least just to buy all the hoses.

bubba, it was the bridge that takes that slight bend to the left heading fwy north, not that sharp righthander downramp, my bad with the names Tyres do come into it definatly but in my experience you buy a really good road tyre, fantastic in the dry.. RUBBISH in the wet.. however you buy a good wet tyre they generally are not to good in the dry. The continental sport contact 2's were the best tyres I have ever had.. fantastic at high speed in the dry but they were the shittest tyre ever in the wet. the tyres i had with that accident were brand new ecsta's basically, but i dont blame the tyres, i blame me.

what the rain can do... Before: + Horseshoe bridge with mild acceleration and not enough rear swing room at 80kmhr After 8K damage I have had 2 more R32's since then.. lesson learnt.. See if that makes you be more careful

added

I just realised something.. I know one person with a skyline, keen to get to know you WA members, i really gota get out more lol when I chuck a new rad in the 32 Il be sure to come on some track days feel free to add me to your msn, I wont bite [email protected] please dont add me if all you want is man love Regards Dan

Need to know the capacity roughly for power steering fluid in Hicus setup in R32 GTST, just so I know how much to buy cheers

you wont look back, trust me.. Iv had three how many did you end up looking at in the end? pics pics!

wasnt too bad hey, i pulled from behind the gear behind it and it slid off nicely yeh its definatly fun putn all new bearings through it, pulling it apart wasnt so bad, remembering where shit went was a battle since it was my first box I have built, lucky I have the nissan FAST program for explosion charts Gave the fuel tank a scrub and clean and cleaned up some surface rust on top of the tank and resprayed it.. The bottom needs a paint now as well but I have waited til the tank is back in the car so it dont get scratched up. Tailshaft, slave cyl, starter motor and loom for gearbox all hooked up now, I also fixed my issue with the power steering line at the back of the car for the hicus, there was a dodgy peice of water hose with cable ties to fasten looped to the return line to the front of the car. I have ripped that off, filed down the flange on the line so some 3/8" fluid line can comfortably slide over the line with some new hose clamps, I have stripped out the hicus loom in the back to tidy things up and made things look alot neater. I also found my car allready has a Hicus lock bar in it!! bonus! heres pics of the intake manifold and head before it was slapped on with a new gasket, I have sealed around the water jackets to ensure nothing leaks into the intake just incase there is a low spot Il take some updated pics tomorrow of engine bay, looks alot tidier now.