
BANGN
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Everything posted by BANGN
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best thing is to buy a brass fitting to suit vac hose that has thread on one end.. drill a hole cooler pipe closest to the outlet of the turbo and wind the fitting on with a spanner and get someone to silversolder/weld it so its sealed. you can get brass fittings from most auto shops (veals)
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unplug your air flow meter, post up your result if it starts
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well at the end of the Day I am the one asking the question because I need the help. there is obviously a good reason that so many people on AL suggest using certain tuners. In fact it made it very clear on who to use when I called All-Star today to book my car in and asked if they have tuned many nistunes on 20's.. he said heaps. This made me a bit more comfortable of the result of the tune, were as PZP said it had been a while since he had tuned a 20. Im sure his work is more than satisfactory but as you said Bart, why go for the cheap option if I am risking of having it re-done again.. at least now I can be assured it will come out smoking the rears so yeh thanks for the feedback and advice..
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650 is what I was quoted by PZP installed and tuned up to 16psi Have not heard good things about import 101 or Top Racing so steering clear of them, so far only 1 guy on the forums (antilag) have used them and a few of his mates use PZP and said he does top work.. and had nothing but good things to say about PZP, worst comes to worst I suppose hypers or ASG can re-do the tune
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Perth Z Performance All Star Garage C-Red Hyperdrive X-speed dont do it anymore, said they were a pain in the ass to tune
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Hey hows it going, did some shopping around for a Nistune installed and tuned on my R32 GTST Perth Z Performance were the cheapest, has anyone got anything to say about them? They mainly specialise in Skylines and 300Z's The guy was nice enough and helpful, Just want to feel safe I am taking it to somewhere reasonable.
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as topic says anyone tried putting R33 rear coupe seats in a R32 coupe? wondering if it would work with minor modifications or is it a forget about it thing
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your attitude is retarded logout and buy a honda
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Nothing available for R33 yet, as far as I was aware it is plug and play with a 20 ecu, its just that you loose the variable valve timing, but I think its only series 1 that might be plug and play as series 2 has the ignitor in the ecu where the Rb20 does not.
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What Sort Of Symptoms You Get With Dodgy Coilpacks?
BANGN replied to BANGN's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
It had a white texta mark where it was before I pulled it out, so if anything its probably a couple of degrees out -
This morning on the way to work my R32 kept hitting fuel cut when I was demanding power from it, if you stomped first gear most of the time it would pull through but towards the end of second gear it would hit fuel cut, not every time but just most of the time tis a RB20 with R33 Turbo, FMIC & Manual Boost Controller. plugs are at 1.0 gap atm which I need to reduce why do Rb20's hit fuel cut? could it be the fact I have a spiking boost controller? or perhaps that it was too cold this morning? I havnt touched my boost level which is about 13psi last time I set it, I dont have a boost gauge so I am not sure how much boost it runs when it hits fuel cut, but its been running fine until now. My Ribs are sore now
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Im in wa.. I was guna get C-Red to do mine, I have had a APexi before and was happy, had been told that Nistune is a little bit better, but not sure how much better
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is a nistune worth doing over a apexi AFC?
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have you adjusted the TPS? how long has the idle been high?
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READ BEFORE REPLYING PLEASE.. Was just keen to kow what sort of things happen when you have a dodgy coilpack? I have been having issues with my RB20 causing it to run very rich and rough and took me a week to diagnose the issue after numerous starts, in this time I replaced a few coils with S/H items and I replaced my spark plugs and removed my cam angle sensor and re-installed it into a position I beleived was correct but really needs checking properly... I found the that was causing it to run rich and fixed it (IC pipe fell off) and took the car for a drive to get some food.. Found that the car doesnt seem to pull as hard, just seems a bit flat and also whilst sitting in the drivethrough it had a slight miss at idle, very intermitant. so driving the car home I loaded it up in top gear and it didnt miss, i droped it back to second and nailed it to 6K then backed off, then let it run down to a lower rpm then boosted back up to 6K a couple of times too try and get it to fault.. Its fine, just seems a bit slower than usual. once I came home sitting in the driveway the miss stopped and was idling smooth, I am going to see how it goes driving to work tomorrow but do you think I may have a iffy coilpack or perhaps I may of fouled the plugs up when it was running rich as a bitch. It did not have a miss previous to the IC pipe coming off, was thinking either its because I am running NGK copper plugs instead of platinums or a coil. Being sluggish I imagine its the ign timing but wasnt sure if a coil could cause this as well what do you guys think
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prob solved.. Forgot to tighten the IC pipe which fouled my plugs expensive and embarrasing lesson.
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put another AFM in, car started, ran fine.. waited a few min, still fine.. gave it a rev... fell over again and runs like shit.. unplug the AFM and it runs smooth but rich. AHHH
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well I am getting somewhere now.. replaced all the plugs and doesnt miss... went to rev it up and it bounced of 2800rpm... At this time remembered my AFM was unpugged... plugged in the afm i got from KYP.. it started running rich as a bitch and rather rough and would not rev above 3k, it didnt bounce it just refused to rev harder.. so better take the AFM back then.
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put a catch can on it, its because the breather from the cam covers goes in before the turbo which sucks it through the system.. Oil in the cooler will reduce the coolers cooling efficency as well as reduce the octane of the fuel in the combustion chamber
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Decided to run the car up again and rap the throttle a couple of times and very swiftly pulled all the plugs again. 1 - Dry & Black 2 - Wet & Black 3 - Dry & Black 4 - Dry & Black 5 - Dry & Black 6 - Saturated and Black So I put the plugs from 2 & 6 next to eachother in 4 & 5 and ran the car up... only 4 & 5 are wet.. so its either plugs or coils. - replaced the coils in 4 & 5.... the plugs are still wet. - pulled the plugs out of my miss's daewoo and replaced 4 & 5 only, started it up and ran smooth then started getting rough and smokey again (plugs were rather different tho, but they still pulled out wet) - put my plugs back in but swapped 1x wet plug to cyl 2. - cyl 5 was dry but cyl 2 was slightly wet.. but the car ran smoother and I think smoked less. (I asume this is because because the faulty cyl's were spread out now making the motor turn over smoother) replace all the plugs you think?
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just pulled all the coils and checked for spark for each one... there is spark on all 6 coils. would the injectors cause it to miss tho? sounds like a WRX and is pouring fuel out the exhaust!
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just replaced the CAS.... still missing.. wot... the ... f*k. stab stab
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I washed my engine bay down on Tuesday earlier this week.. Car is running like its dropped cylinders. I have put the ignitor and coilpack looms on a GTR and it ran perfectly fine so I know they are ok. I have replaced the airflow meter also I just got a set of secondhand coilpacks and before installation diagnosed cyl 1 and cyl 6 have wet plugs.. so I replaced number 1 & 6 coilpack. plugs are still wet and runs the same.. swapped number 1 plug into pot 2 and vis-versa to check that plugs were not faulty... number 1 is still wet and so is pot 6 where do I go from here... CAS? ECU? there is alot of fuel smoke coming out the exhaust also, guess thats because the oxy sensor thinks its running lean?
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Need A Favour.. Can I Put My Ignitor Pack In Your 32?
BANGN replied to BANGN's topic in Western Australia
cool.. thanks bubba, id imagine it works on a 26 then. il send u a PM stormtrooper. -
Need A Favour.. Can I Put My Ignitor Pack In Your 32?
BANGN replied to BANGN's topic in Western Australia
not sure.. part number on ignitor is 22020-05U00.. its a hitachi item, appreciated if u could check if its the same