403_r32

Wow some of you need to grow up. Didnt your mommy's ever tell you, if you dont have anything nice to say DONT SAY ANYTHING AT ALL. Once again, grow the f*** up. I put the exhaust and intake on, along with the Mine's tuned ecu. It was stock when I got it. The car pulled like a raped ape, never showed any problems at all, and the chassis of the car definitely did not show much sign of age. I am confident to say, its probably one of the cleanest cars on these boards. Was. ^ Rooster, I think an injector went south in a HURRY as well. Which is kind of sad, as that would mean the motor had just 3000 kms to wreck itself. Whatever. I gave the car to my friend. He's going to just swap the motor, or stuff in an rb26.. after that it will be gifted to his wife haha.

Records are somewhere in my friends shop.. but they are there.. I bought the car with 76xxx (imported from Japan, apparently the previous owner was some middle aged fellow), rolled it up to 95xxx, mostly highway driving, and with no problems at all..

All that was, was a glorified rant. If anyone has any idea what could have caused it, I'd love to know an outside explanation, or if its a common occurance.

f**k this thread, f**k these forums, f**k AU, f**k you assholes, and most of all f**k Skylines. Good-day ya bunch of f**king ass clowns. Come to America so you can be f**king shot.

Sweet thanks guys.

I was having money issues and had to use Castrol Syntec. Whatever you do, do not feed it to your car, EVER.

I believe that the stock rotors are 280mm? Is it the s14 5 bolt or z32 (turbo or na) that share the same rotor?

Oh my oats. That car sounds angry. I like it. I like it, probably too much.

I watched this a while back, that driver is effing mad!

How many of the users here have 100% legal cars anyways?

Thanks for the comments Yessir! Nothing fantastic but here are some more; I'll try to get some more next time I clean it.

Well, I guess you'd really have to have steady hands if you dont want to respray the bonnet, nevertheless make a mistake! Getting a straight cut is probably the most difficult part. Sanding/feathering down the edges may be a bit tedious, but as long as you take off a fairly even amount and the edge retains an even bevel, the touch up paint would suffice. The s2k hood was done as I said, just touched up around the edges, and as far as I'm concerned it looks pretty damn good As long as you have a straight cut to begin with, and have it all masked off properly there shouldnt be any problems! Getting more air to run around the iron torpedo of a block will always help lower temperatures. Every little thing helps.

I have never seen a roll job that hasnt had to be painted, but, if its just a very mild roll you may be able to get away with it.

Taken from s2ki.com forums. (Yes, there are pictures of a Honda, I am sorry in advance. ) *disclaimer* I take no responsibility if you mess up! I wanted a vented hood for three reasons; 1. To let heat (from header, engine, & radiator) escape from engine bay 2. To get cooler air into intake 3. To use the low pressure area above the hood to help extract air from under the front of the car thereby increasing velocity under the splitter and floor of the nose which should increase downforce. Why not buy a carbon fiber vented hood? The affordable knock-off carbon hoods are heavier and less stiff than the stock aluminum hood. I believe the stock hood weighs 14 pounds. The high quality "authentic" hoods (cwest, mugen etc...) cost a bundle and still need to be painted unless you are going for the carbon look. Some if not all composite hoods require hood pins for high speed use. Oh yeah, and I'm cheap. I planned on venting both sides but ran out of time and decided I like the look of just one side. Still debating. Here's my solution: How to build your own: Please use appropriate safety equipment and don't screw up. Yes, you are about to cut holes in a perfectly good hood so be prepared. Remove the hood and the hood liner and support it upside down on some padded saw horses. Make templates by laying paper over each support hole you wish to cut and trace the edge (use the pencil rubbing technique). Use the templates to cut out some perforated aluminum (clean and paint the both sides of the aluminum). http://www.mcmaster.com/ Use a 3/8" spacer against the hood support edges to draw the hole shape. I left a 3/8" lip for mounting purposes. Using a UniBit, drill a hole in each corner. Using an air saw, cut out the shape from the under side - leave a small gap to finish off with sanding. Use a sanding drum on a die grinder to smooth to shape. I tried using a sandpaper wheel on an angle grinder but it gets too hot and the paints starts to peel back. Once the shape is close, flip the hood over and apply masking tape on the top side all around the new openings. Use wet dry sandpaper to smooth the cut and feather the paint. The masking tape is there so if you slip with the sandpaper, you won't scratch up your hood. Lay 3M double stick tape used for moldings/body work on your 3/8" lip and trim with a razor to fit just inside the cut out (find it at automotive body shops). Use a fine paint brush and carefully paint the exposed edge with factory touch up paint. Install perforated aluminum and your done. I used some small sheet metal clips to hold the perforated aluminum in place just in case the double stick tape failed due to engine heat but I ran a full track day without them and everything was fine.

Taken from s2ki.com forums. (Yes, there are Honda pictures in here) *disclaimer* I take no responsibility if you mess up! I wanted a vented hood for three reasons; 1. To let heat (from header, engine, & radiator) escape from engine bay 2. To get cooler air into intake 3. To use the low pressure area above the hood to help extract air from under the front of the car thereby increasing velocity under the splitter and floor of the nose which should increase downforce. Why not buy a carbon fiber vented hood? The affordable knock-off carbon hoods are heavier and less stiff than the stock aluminum hood. I believe the stock hood weighs 14 pounds. The high quality "authentic" hoods (cwest, mugen etc...) cost a bundle and still need to be painted unless you are going for the carbon look. Some if not all composite hoods require hood pins for high speed use. Oh yeah, and I'm cheap. I planned on venting both sides but ran out of time and decided I like the look of just one side. Still debating. Here's my solution: How to build your own: Please use appropriate safety equipment and don't screw up. Yes, you are about to cut holes in a perfectly good hood so be prepared. Remove the hood and the hood liner and support it upside down on some padded saw horses. Make templates by laying paper over each support hole you plan to cut and trace the edge (use the pencil rubbing technique). Use the templates to cut out some perforated aluminum (clean and paint the both sides of the aluminum). http://www.mcmaster.com/ Use a 3/8" spacer against the hood support edges to draw the hole shape. I left a 3/8" lip for mounting purposes. Using a UniBit, drill a hole in each corner. Using an air saw, cut out the shape from the under side - leave a small gap to finish off with sanding. Use a sanding drum on a die grinder to smooth to shape. I tried using a sandpaper wheel on an angle grinder but it gets too hot and the paints starts to peel back. Once the shape is close, flip the hood over and apply masking tape on the top side all around the new openings. Use wet dry sandpaper to smooth the cut and feather the paint. The masking tape is there so if you slip with the sandpaper, you won't scratch up your hood. Lay 3M double stick tape used for moldings/body work on your 3/8" lip and trim with a razor to fit just inside the cut out (find it at automotive body shops). Use a fine paint brush and carefully paint the exposed edge with factory touch up paint. Install perforated aluminum and your done. I used some small sheet metal clips to hold the perforated aluminum in place just in case the double stick tape failed due to engine heat but I ran a full track day without them and everything was fine.

Skyline model = r32 gts-t 4 door Wheel diameter = 17" Wheel width = 7.5" front (plus 5mm spacer), 8" rear Wheel offset = +38 Tyre size = 205 45 front, 225 40 rear Modifications to fit = None, rolled the fenders anyways

I am using them in my 32 gts, so the result in the 33 can be rather different. For height adjustment, the fronts go pretty low (can tuck the wheels), the rears you have to un preload the springs to get less than a one finger gap. But, if you wish to dump the car, the springs/dampers are too soft, even if you preload the piss out of the fronts its still prone to frame smashing. But once you find the happy medium for height, they are a pretty good daily setup. Smooth enough that your kidneys dont explode, and stiff enough to keep the car level in corners. Again this is just my experience with my car, but I hope it helps.