B-Man

Daily Drivability - You will beat most every car on the street. Daily driving is fine. It's a bit loud - not Peripheral Port loud - but loud enough to set car alarms off in car parks. The stally drives well, you can still creep along, but when you out the foot down the revs go up pretty quick. Fuel Economy - With 3 x 550cc/min (pri) and 3 x 1600cc/min injectors (sec) - you work it out. (ask any GTR owner that has 6 x 1000cc/min injectors and turbo that support this)

For those who have asked: Motor is fully dowelled, race seals, springs, extended port, S6 Exhaust Sleeves, etc Wastegate is 60mm Stall Converter is about 3000 RPM - perfect for boosted launches.

Make:Mazda Model:Cosmo Milage:78,000 Colour:Blue Location:Sydney, North RWC supplied?n/a Currently registered?Y Price:$21000 or open to trade for GTR (32/33) with cash either way Contact: PM or [email protected] Comments / Modifications: <edit> Price Drop to $21K - Includes Work Wheels (worth $3K) I've just started a new job and the Cosmo is not practical for me (either is the S12). So I need to sell (or trade) the beast. I've had the car for about 2 years - bought it from the bloke that originally imported it. When I got it, it was totally stock. Now, not so stock. I've spent way over $50K on this car and I know I won't get it back - so my loss is your gain. For those that don't know: JC Cosmo 1990 20B, ECCS model Motor rebuilt by Race Solutions < 5000kms ago - Race Spec internals HKS T04Z Turbo HKS GT2 Wastegate 1600 cc/pin secondary injectors DMRH FM Intrecooler Oil Cooler - with GREX S/W plate inc thermostat B&M Tranny Cooler MV Autos - Stage 2 Race transmission Haltec E11V2 ECU - tuned by Hitman K-Sport Coil Overs K-Sport 8 piston calipers, 330mm slotted rotors Sard BOV Custom Air box Work Wheels - 18" Pioneer Stereo (HU) ipod USB i/f - Response Amps and Speakers, JBL Sub 4.5" Exhaust with SMB Mufflers and Cat (Best money can buy) Dual Walbro 255l/h fuel pumps Wideband O2 Sensor and guage Boost, Oil Pressure, Water Temp Guages, Nokia Blue Tooth handsfree I'm sure I have left some other stuff off too - can't think...... This is an extremely fast car - the gear changes are savage (quick) Currently running 10 PSI and has 450HP at the rears. Capable of 600 if the boost is increases. This is a genuine 10 second capable car - And I only say 'capable' as I haven't yet run it down the quarter mile. There are some minor things that need attention. * With the lowered suspension, the front wheel arches rubbed on the guards and some paint came off - I repaired the damage - but did a rough spray job in blue around the affected area to stop rust etc (the car is blue), as I had planned to get the guards repainted along with the boot (see next point). * The boot was replaced (the original boot had a spoiler, which I didn't like plus has some rust in it from the spoiler install) the new boot is an ever so slightly different shade of blue - hardly noticeable. The original boot comes with the car too. Price - I'll take offers around the $25K mark - I have no idea how much the car is worth as I have spent sooooo much money on it. Also open to trades (looking for a stock, rear/all wheel drive, manual, sporty looking car of some type - perhaps a GTR or something) NO TEST PILOTS PLEASE - Genuine buyers only ! Contact via PM or b-man(at)skylinesaustralia(dot)com Mobile: 0402 030 038 Images:

PM Sent

Not yet - since putting the race transmission in - the rear suspension bushes have failed from all the hash shifting - so waiting to replace those. The rear is very wobbly at the moment...... Also the coilovers I put in are not up to scratch - the dampers have worn after only 8000kms - serves me right for putting K-Sports in - hopefully they will fix under warranty..... Ah the joys of modifying cars - and pouring lots of hard earnt moolah into them - I know what it's like Paul - well the financial side of it anyway - It's been like years since I've taken a car down the quarter now.... and I was hoping to race like months ago.

Good luck Paul and Stace, in what ever endeavors you choose

I have a PLX wideband on my car and it works fine. It does the same things that yours does when not connected etc. When I had mine dyno tuned - the PLX matched the Dyno Lamda - so all good for me. I placed my sensor before the cat - and the just after the dump pipe flange. Ensure the sensor is between 10:00 and 2:00 - the can't be upside down (ie 6:00) as water can get in them. I'd suggest getting some dyno time with another wideband up the arse of your exhaust as a check and reference. PS - no need to calibrate mine..... (as you say, they don't need it)

Yep - Supra still there. I don't know 100% what the story is with that one. But what I do know is that they work bloody fast and well - So I don't think it's lack of expertise or willingness to do the job - I can only speculate. Also , what I know is that I dropped of my S12 this week and it's a good chance of being all complete by end of next week. It's going to go hard ! Can't wait !

Sure is !

OK Here's the latest..... S13 front suspension conversion done - should see the camber now - it's massive Skyline 4 piston brakes and rotor conversion done on the front ! FJ is going in now - as we type ! pics below !

Happy Birthday from one old fart to an other younger old fart !

Thanks fellas - yeah will be keeping the circlips now I know they are a fail safe... The boots won't cable tie on - there is no recess for the tie - they are metal ring ended. Look like they will stay on when the spindle/knuckle is secured down.

Try www.fj20.com

So I'm putting S13 coilovers in my S12 - which means replacing the LCAs, Radius Rods, Tie Rod Ends and Rack Ends, and coilovers aswell. (The purpose is to give me adjustable suspension and the added bonus of upgrading my brakes from the pissy single piston to skyline 4 pot brakes) Anyway..... The LCAs I got has good ball joints, only the BJ boots are stuffed. So I went down the the local autoshop and got some new boots. - they are the ones with solid metal ring in the bottom of them. They fit perfectly - BUT - if I leave the ball joint circlip on, they kinda work up the taper - grease comes out the bottom... However, if I take the circlips off, the metal ring fits snugly into the circlip recess. So my question is - Is it OK to take the circlips out ? I'm looking at it all thinking which way do the forces go ?? The ball joint itself is firmly pressed into the LCA - but was thinking it may be there in case the ball joint slips out of the LCA... Anyone care to comment ? Or - should I just get new ball joints with the integrated boot pressed in ??? Cheers,

Very close to putting engine in.... Today I fabricated my own dump pipe. Farken very satisfying making up the custom job. New gaskets for the top end Painted cam cover and plenum Injector kit thu all the injectors. Pulled the GB off to check the clutch out - all good Will be great to get out there and do some circuit and drift work again - I miss those days in the Skyline. Eastern Creek, with Maj's father in law in the passenger seat. Benm on the drift day. Then thrashing Paul on the mini karna on the skid pan

How about a 40 YO ex IT Project Manager - currently un-employed. Good Driving record. Full NCB insurance - no claims for the last 10 years. Knows how to drive high powered cars, slowly/carefully/safely - (450HP skyline and 550HP Cosmo). Many advanced/defensive driving courses. Did the CAMs thing - the written test and Observation Test (McGill) (never followed thru with the paper work though)...... I guess the daily rate wouldn't be he same as IT Contracting though

Farkin whatever

Look - it's so obvious - there was no driver error at all...... The problem was surely the massive rear wing on the back.

Steel wheels ??? I plan on turning the boost up ! Yes, the VLT turbo is tiny - but it does have steel wheels No progress on the Paint - except cam cover and plenum - oh and calipers - this is going to be one technicolour Gazelle. ha ha Coilovers arrived Intercooler Arrived Some Pics soon !

Pretty sure that S15 has a T25 flange and R33 has T3 flange so you you would need an adaptor.

S13 Coilovers, LCAs, Stub Axles and hubs on there way - time for some camber Lowered double rate rear springs on their way S15 4 Pot brakes on their way ! - The good thing about this car is that it is light and newer better parts are cheap as ppl upgrade theirs, they sell of good old parts. I'll probably end up spending about $5,500 total on it - but I reckon it will go hard, stop hard and corner hard. Most difficult thing is finding a LSD for cheap - Might just weld it up - but I don't think that would be any good for circuit. Good for Drift, but not circuit perhaps. Dropped engine at workshop yesterday - Gave it a bit of a clean. Took cam cover off - looks to be in good nick. Has a VLT turbo on it - with wastegate welded shut at the actuator. However, they didn't completely weld it shut - so it must have been leaking boost - no wonder the dyno graph that the dude showed me looked laggy. 220RWHP - We should be able to fix that sucker and make it go a lot better.

I've really only heard a few bad things about these turbos - Mainly good thing though. The bad was to do with a manufacturing problem with the W/G overboosting. Seems like good value for the coin. I'm thinking of one of these for my pig project as they are cheap. I have a VL turbo turbo on the FJ at the moment - seems pretty small - the W/G is dodgy welded shut and has an external WG. So I'd be thinking of bypassing W/G on these one of these cheap turbos anyway. I will see how the VLT turbo goes after we fix the dodgyness.

So... back on topic - Are these KKR turbos the same as the ones Just Jap sells and the same as the HyperGear ones ???

Hmmmm - tempting... Now , about that $5 I have in credit with you .... We might need to work something out with the Castor Rods

Castor Rods - Are they the same as or will fit S13 ??? Cheers,