B-Man

What's the timeline looking like for results ??

Yeah - I know that now... I had a look on the Techedge web site - they have instructions on how to modify the Jaycar A/F ratio meter to work with a wideband sensor - looks like a lot of hard work but - They even used to sell these as kits - but I think they have stopped production. But for tuning for moderate power with small mods (say 150-170rwkw) would the narrow/slow Jaycar kit be ok ? I mean yeah you won't see fast response - but if you kept your loadpoint for a few secs until the meter read correctly it would still be fairly accurate ????? I know it's better to log then adjust -

If only Trust made ball bearing turbs - hey Roy :) ha ha thanks for the PM - Might be an option

Got mine today - Great Service

I had to look 3 times at that turbo before I understood what you were doing with it - Crazy (but good) stuff. Back on topic a bit - What is wrong with the HKS 2510 on an RB20 ?? Some say it runs out of puff at 6200 RPM ?? What does run out of puff mean ? Some say it makes 210 rwkw on an RB20 If it spools up fast and makes good average power - then I think this is a good thing. I've done the big laggy turbo thing with great max power - my aim this time round is super responsive , good average power (over whole rev range). HKS 2510s second hand off the japanese yahoo auctions are like $600 or something - So seems good value to me. I'm also looking for cheap.. well not cheap but very very good value for $$$ And I like HKS turbos ...... What other options are there apart from Hi flow standard and hi flow RB25 ??

Full boost at 2500 - from a HKS 3040 on an RB25 motor ?? I'd like to see that

OH - ooops. Sorry to hear.

Excellent ! ! ! !

I don't get it ?????

I am wondering.... - If I get the Jaycar A/F ratio kit that links up to my std O2 sensor (the kit that displays the A/F ratio as a digital readout - not the led one) - but instead of hooking it up to the stock sensor, I buy a fast wide sensor - will this work ? I don't see why not as long as the Fast Wide sensor outputs between 0-1V. The only other question is if the Jaycar kit could keep up with the probe. I've got a kit at home - will read the instructions/specs to see what sampling rate it measures at.

I still think the whole non OEM thing is great load of crap. Example 1- My crappy, rusty OEM exhaust / muffler system is replaced by a Midas exhaust / muffler system - that means my car is illegally modified. Even though I my exhaust is probablly quieter and better for the environment. Example 2 - My OEM brake pads have worn out - I buy a set of high performance Apexi/HKS pad and install them - My car can stop better now - But the car is illegally modified. Example 3 - I install a Power FC or SAFC in my stock skyline - get my tuner to lean the A/F ratios out for better economy - I am using less petrol and not polluting the environment as much - yet my car is illegally modified. Example 4 - I go down to Supercheap and by a Ryco oil and air filter - My car is illegally modified Example 5 - I go down to Bob Janes and get a new set of wheels - same size and width as my stock 16" wheels - but they look better - My car is illegally modified Example 6 - My Shocks and springs are worn out - so I go down to Pedders and get replacement spring asn shocks - my car handles better - less chance of an accident - yet the car is illegally modified. Don't get me wrong Fat32 - not having a go at you - and good on you for getting your car engineered - But the rules are ambiguous - There are extremes at each end - Highly modified (yes engineering needs to be done) OR Slightly modified with non OEM parts (engineering not required in my view) If the rules are the rules - then I bet EVERY SINGLE CAR over 1 year old is illegal and should be de-registered . Stupid rules - they should revisit them in my opinion. /rant

What mods had you done to the car ?

Guessing cooler pipework is for an R33 ??

I can help out too. Might as well get some more use out of my Offical T-Shirt

I know of at least one other KGC10 going

I'll give you $20 for it. Reason - I can get a new dump pipe for $140 so I'd get a front and dump pipe for $160. I can also get a all-in-one front/dump pipe for $170. So $10 my way. If you don't believe me - check ebay out. Cheers,

Man - JP - what have you done with the Wing on your car ?? It looks much bigger than last time I looked - Geez !

Rare as rocking horse shit - good luck - let me know if you find 2 !

Budget 10K -12K for Engine rebuild (including labour) - to do it properly. Trust me, I have done it. Then add your turbo kit Then add clutch to handle power THen add semi slicks as you will need them for traction. You really gotta ask yourself - do you need 300+ rwkw ?? OR do you just want it ? I wanted it - then when I had it , didn't use it (even at Eastern Creek). Have you even driven a 300+ rwkw car ? It's pretty scary. Especially RWD only. If I were you I'd go a dicopotato - HKS 2835 - plenty of power and resoponse. Anything more than that is a laggy laggy hoe and you won't be able to enjoy it as much. My 2c

THanks Black. I thought of some more quesitons last night too - I'll post them later - there are enough quesitons in this thread for now CHeers,

No worries mate - thanks for the reply. Sitill a damn good price - I remember selling my 3rd hand GTR cooler about 12months ago for $500. And paying approx $1K to get it fitted. Goes to show how much prices have already come down.

Forgive my igonrance, but I don't understand why the pipe work costs double the cost of a cooler ? Granted there is R&D involved in designing and jigging the pipe work - and there are silicon bends - but isn't there heaps more involved in welding and testing the cooler for pressure - etc ? $200 roughly for the cooler and 450 roughly for the pipework doesn't seem to be balance .... Anyway - it's a great price all up - I'm just intrigued by the delta in price. Saving my pennies now - hopefully the pipework cost will come doen soon Cheers,

Yes, I have searched - but didn't find exactly all the stuff I wanted to know. So: 1) What is (more or less) max boost for standard RB20 Turbo ? 2) Will R33 FMIC piping work with RB20 or is the pipework different orientation ? 3) Is the front/dump pipe of an R32 same as an R33 ? 4) Is the R32 4door exhaust (cat back) the same length and orientation as a 2 door version ? 5) Is the GTS-4 suspension (front and rear) same as a GTS-t or GTR or neither ? 6) Can you disable front wheel drive ina GTS-4 same as GTR (by pulling a fuse , which one) 7) Will adjustable exhaust cam gear give same benefits as RB25DET at 4 deg retard ? 8) Is the exhaust cam gear same as RB25DET ? 9) Is the AFM in RB20DET same as RB25DET - and will Z32 AFM help with increased resolution ? 10) Is it worthwhile getting RB20 turbo hiflowed with new (steel) wheels ? At what cost ? Or is it simply better/less cost to get a 2nd hand HKS 2430 11) Is the RB20DET and RB25DET exhaust manifold the same ? 12) Is mounting a FMIC on the R32 similar to the R33 ? Do you need to shave the front bar ? 13) What can max power the GTS-4 gearbox handle ? 14) Does GTS-4 come with LSD at the rear ? 15) Is the rear diff same as a GTR (ie R200) ie if I found an R200 locker would it bolt up ? 16) Who does R32 ECU re-chips / how much ? Is it better to just get an SAFC / Fuel Controller ? I know this doesn't adjust timing - but was thinking the cam gear could take care of this for moderate power. (AP Eng PFC too expensive for an R32 - bad cost/benefit for the value of the car) 17) With GTS-4 do the same tyre width on all 4 wheels apply - like GTR ? 18) What is safe power (rwkw) for standard internals ? 19) What sort of brakes are on the front of a GTS-4 , I think 2 pot - Will the R33 4 pots bolt on ? What size discs ? Sorry for all the questions , some might be rudimentary I guess.... Thanks in advance Roy - for your help on these (as I know you will know all the answers - he he) CHeers,

Ordered mine today - can't wait. Thanks Mark, Brendan

Oh well - a 4 door 32 is close